How to Replace Front Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2008 Nissan Altima
Step-by-step DIY guide with tools list, parts needed, safety tips, and torque specs for 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013
How to Replace Front Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2008 Nissan Altima
Step-by-step DIY guide with tools list, parts needed, safety tips, and torque specs for 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013
🔧 Altima - Front Brake Pads & Rotors Replacement
You’ll remove the front wheels, unbolt the brake caliper and bracket, replace the rotor, then install new pads and reassemble. Doing pads and rotors together helps prevent pulsation (shaking) and gives you the best braking performance.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-3 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- 🛑 Work on level ground and support the car with jack stands; never rely on the jack alone.
- 🛑 Do not breathe brake dust; use brake cleaner and let parts dry.
- 🛑 Brake fluid can damage paint; wipe spills immediately.
- 🛑 Do not let the caliper hang by the brake hose; support it with a hook/strap.
- 🛑 Keep fingers clear when compressing the caliper piston.
- 🔋 Battery disconnect is not required for this job.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- 21mm socket
- Ratchet (3/8" drive)
- Breaker bar (1/2" drive)
- 14mm socket
- 19mm socket
- Torque wrench (20-150 ft-lb range)
- C-clamp (6" minimum)
- Large flathead screwdriver
- Bungee cord or mechanic’s wire
- Wire brush
- Rubber mallet
- Brake cleaner spray
- Shop towels
- Nitrile gloves
- Safety glasses
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Front brake pad set - Qty: 1
- Front brake rotors - Qty: 2
- Front brake pad hardware kit (clips/shims) - Qty: 1
- Brake caliper grease (silicone brake lubricant) - Qty: 1
- Brake cleaner - Qty: 1
- Anti-seize compound - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, put the transmission in 1st gear, and set the parking brake.
- Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
- Open the hood and locate the brake fluid reservoir; as you compress the pistons, the fluid level may rise. Don’t let it overflow.
- Loosen (crack) the front lug nuts before lifting the car.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Loosen lug nuts and raise the front
- Use a 21mm socket with a breaker bar to loosen the front lug nuts 1/2 turn.
- Lift the front with a floor jack and set it securely on jack stands.
- Remove the lug nuts using the 21mm socket and take the wheels off.
Step 2: Remove the caliper (the squeezing part)
- Turn the steering wheel to give yourself room (left side: turn wheel right; right side: turn wheel left).
- Use a 14mm socket and ratchet to remove the two caliper slide bolts.
- Lift the caliper off the bracket and suspend it using a bungee cord or mechanic’s wire.
- Never let the caliper hang by the hose.
Step 3: Remove old brake pads and hardware
- Pull the brake pads out of the bracket by hand. If stuck, gently pry with a large flathead screwdriver.
- Remove the pad hardware clips from the bracket (they usually pop out by hand; use the flathead screwdriver if needed).
Step 4: Remove the caliper bracket (the pad holder)
- Use a 19mm socket with a breaker bar to remove the two bracket-to-knuckle bolts.
- Set the bracket aside.
Step 5: Remove the rotor
- If the rotor is stuck to the hub, spray the center area with brake cleaner spray and let it soak for a minute.
- Tap the rotor hat (the flat “bowl” area) with a rubber mallet to break it loose, then pull the rotor off.
Step 6: Clean the hub surface
- Use a wire brush to clean rust off the hub face (where the rotor sits).
- Wipe clean with shop towels and spray with brake cleaner spray.
- Apply a very thin film of anti-seize compound to the hub face (avoid wheel studs).
Step 7: Install the new rotor
- Clean the new rotor with brake cleaner spray and shop towels to remove protective oil.
- Install the rotor onto the hub. To hold it straight, thread on one lug nut by hand (use the wheel as a “clamp” later).
Step 8: Reinstall the caliper bracket
- Position the bracket over the new rotor and start the bolts by hand.
- Tighten using a 19mm socket and ratchet, then final tighten with a torque wrench.
- Torque to 98 Nm (72 ft-lb)
Step 9: Service the slide pins and install new hardware
- Pull the caliper slide pins out by hand.
- Wipe clean with shop towels, then apply a thin coat of brake caliper grease. (Brake caliper grease is a high-heat lubricant safe for rubber boots.)
- Reinstall the slide pins and make sure they move smoothly.
- Install the new hardware clips onto the bracket.
Step 10: Install new pads
- Install the new pads into the bracket by hand.
- If your pad set includes inner/outer differences (like a wear indicator), match them exactly as the instructions show.
Step 11: Compress the caliper piston
- Place one old pad against the piston face, then use a C-clamp (6" minimum) to slowly press the piston back into the caliper.
- Go slowly and watch the brake fluid reservoir as the level rises.
Step 12: Reinstall the caliper
- Set the caliper over the new pads.
- Install the two slide bolts using a 14mm socket and ratchet, then final tighten with a torque wrench.
- Torque to 26 Nm (19 ft-lb)
Step 13: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts
- Reinstall the wheels and hand-thread all lug nuts.
- Lower the car off the jack stands using the floor jack.
- Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern with a torque wrench.
- Torque to 113 Nm (83 ft-lb)
Step 14: Repeat on the other front wheel
- Repeat Steps 2 through 13 on the other side.
- Always do brakes in pairs on the same axle.
✅ After Repair
- With the engine OFF, pump the brake pedal slowly 10-15 times until it feels firm. This seats the pads.
- Check the brake fluid level and top off only if needed (use the correct DOT type listed on the reservoir cap).
- Start the engine and confirm the pedal feels normal.
- Test drive at low speed first; verify no pulling, grinding, or vibration.
- Pad break-in: make 8-10 moderate stops from 35 mph down to 5 mph, allowing 30 seconds between stops; avoid hard panic stops for the first 200 miles.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $450-$750 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $140-$280 (parts only)
You Save: $310-$470 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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