🔧 Lancer - Front Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement

You’ll remove the front wheels, swap the brake pads and rotors, then reassemble and torque everything correctly. This restores safe stopping power and prevents vibration or grinding caused by worn pads or warped rotors.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours

Assumption: standard single-piston front calipers as equipped on your Lancer.

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on level ground and chock the rear wheels.
• ⚠️ Support the car with jack stands—never rely on a floor jack alone.
• ⚠️ Brake dust is harmful—use brake cleaner, not compressed air.
• ⚠️ Don’t let the caliper hang by the brake hose; support it with a hanger.
• ⚠️ Keep brake fluid off paint; it can damage the finish.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Lug wrench
• Torque wrench (20–200 Nm range)
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• Ratchet
• Breaker bar
• C-clamp (6-inch minimum)
• Wire brush
• Bungee cord
• Flathead screwdriver
• Rubber mallet
• Brake cleaner spray
• Shop towels
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Front brake rotors - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front pad hardware kit (clips/shims) - Qty: 1
• Brake caliper grease (silicone) - Qty: 1
• Brake fluid (DOT 3) - Qty: 1 quart

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
• Chock both rear wheels.
• Pop the hood and locate the brake fluid reservoir.
• Check the reservoir level; if it’s near “MAX,” remove a little with a clean towel so it doesn’t overflow when you compress the pistons.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the lug nuts

• Use a lug wrench to loosen the front wheel lug nuts about 1/2 turn while the car is on the ground.

Step 2: Lift and support the front end

• Lift the front with a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Set the car onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) at the proper support points.
• Give the car a firm shake to confirm it’s stable.

Step 3: Remove the wheels

• Remove the lug nuts with a lug wrench and take off both front wheels.

Step 4: Remove the caliper (leave the hose attached)

• Turn the steering wheel for easier access to the caliper.
• Remove the two caliper slide pin bolts using a 14mm socket and ratchet.
• Lift the caliper off the bracket. If it’s tight, gently pry with a flathead screwdriver.
• Hang the caliper from the strut spring using a bungee cord.
• C-clamp = screw clamp that pushes the piston back.

Step 5: Remove the old pads and hardware

• Slide the pads out by hand. If stuck, use a flathead screwdriver gently.
• Remove old pad clips/hardware from the bracket.

Step 6: Compress the caliper piston

• Place an old pad against the piston, then use a C-clamp (6-inch minimum) to slowly press the piston fully back into the caliper.
• Go slowly and watch the brake fluid reservoir so it doesn’t overflow.

Step 7: Remove the caliper bracket

• Remove the two bracket bolts using a 17mm socket and breaker bar.
• Set the bracket aside.
• When reinstalling later: Torque to 105 Nm (77 ft-lbs).

Step 8: Remove the rotor

• Pull the rotor straight off the hub.
• If it’s stuck, spray the center area with brake cleaner spray, then tap the rotor hat with a rubber mallet to break it free.

Step 9: Clean the hub surface

• Use a wire brush to clean rust from the hub face (where the rotor sits).
• Wipe clean using shop towels and a light spray of brake cleaner spray.
• A clean hub helps prevent brake vibration.

Step 10: Install the new rotor

• Clean the new rotor faces with brake cleaner spray and shop towels (removes shipping oil).
• Slide the rotor onto the hub.
• To hold it in place, thread on one lug nut by hand temporarily.

Step 11: Service the slide pins and reinstall the bracket

• Pull the caliper slide pins out of the bracket by hand.
• Wipe them clean with shop towels, then apply a thin coat of brake caliper grease (silicone).
• Reinstall the bracket bolts using a 17mm socket and torque wrench: Torque to 105 Nm (77 ft-lbs).

Step 12: Install new pad hardware and pads

• Install the new clips/hardware into the bracket by hand.
• Apply a very light film of brake caliper grease (silicone) to pad contact points on the hardware (not on pad friction material).
• Slide the new pads into place.

Step 13: Reinstall the caliper

• Remove the temporary lug nut holding the rotor.
• Lower the caliper over the new pads.
• Install the slide pin bolts using a 14mm socket and torque wrench: Torque to 28 Nm (21 ft-lbs).

Step 14: Reinstall the wheels

• Reinstall the wheels and hand-thread all lug nuts.
• Lower the car off the jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench: Torque to 100 Nm (74 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• With the engine off, press the brake pedal 10–15 times until it feels firm. This seats the pads against the rotors.
• Check the brake fluid level and top off with DOT 3 if needed.
• Start the car and do a slow test stop in a safe area.
• Bed-in (break in) the brakes: do 6–10 moderate stops from 35 mph to 5 mph, letting brakes cool 30–60 seconds between stops. Avoid hard panic stops for the first 200 miles.
• Recheck for leaks, odd noises, or pulling to one side.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$850 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $160-$380 (parts only)

You Save: $290-$470 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.