🔧 Altima - Front Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement

You’ll be removing the front wheels, swapping the brake pads, and replacing the front rotors. Worn pads/rotors can cause grinding, vibration, longer stopping distances, or a pulsating brake pedal.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Work on level ground and support the car with jack stands—never rely on a jack alone.
• 🛑 Set the parking brake and leave the shifter in gear (manual) before lifting the front.
• 🛑 Brake dust is unhealthy—avoid blowing it with compressed air; use brake cleaner instead.
• 🛑 Do not press the brake pedal with the caliper removed.
• 🛑 Keep brake fluid off paint; it can damage finishes.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 21mm socket
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• 1/2" drive torque wrench (20-150 ft-lbs range)
• 14mm socket
• 19mm socket
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 3/8" drive torque wrench (10-40 ft-lbs range)
• C-clamp (6" minimum)
• Bungee cord
• Flathead screwdriver
• Wire brush
• Rubber mallet
• Brake cleaner spray
• Shop towels
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Front brake rotors - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front brake hardware kit (clips/shims) - Qty: 1
• Brake caliper slide pin grease (silicone) - Qty: 1
• Brake parts cleaner - Qty: 1
• DOT 3 brake fluid - Qty: 1 quart

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🧱 Park on flat ground, turn the engine off, and remove the key.
• 🧱 Apply the parking brake and leave the shifter in 1st gear (or reverse).
• 🧱 Crack the front lug nuts loose before lifting the car (about 1/2 turn).
• 🧱 Open the hood and check the brake fluid level—when you compress the pistons, the level may rise.
• Tip: Lay cardboard down to keep parts clean.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen lugs and raise the front

• Use a 21mm socket and breaker bar to loosen (do not remove) the front lug nuts.
• Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Lift the front with the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) and support with jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) at proper lift/support points.

Step 2: Remove the front wheels

• Use a 21mm socket to remove the lug nuts, then remove both front wheels.

Step 3: Remove the brake caliper

• Turn the steering wheel to give yourself more room at the side you’re working on.
• Use a 14mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet to remove the two caliper slide bolts.
• Lift the caliper off the bracket and hang it from the strut spring with a bungee cord (do not let it dangle by the brake hose).
• Tip: Take a quick photo before disassembly.

Step 4: Remove the old pads and hardware

• Pull the old pads out of the bracket by hand. If stuck, gently pry with a flathead screwdriver.
• Remove the pad clips/hardware from the bracket.

Step 5: Remove the caliper bracket

• Use a 19mm socket and 1/2" drive breaker bar to remove the two caliper bracket bolts.
• Set the bracket aside on a clean surface.
• Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs) when reinstalling.

Step 6: Remove the rotor

• Pull the rotor straight off the hub.
• If it’s rust-stuck, spray around the hub face with brake cleaner spray, then tap the rotor hat with a rubber mallet until it frees up.

Step 7: Clean the hub and prep the new rotor

• Use a wire brush to clean rust off the hub face (this helps prevent brake pulsation).
• Spray the new rotor with brake cleaner spray and wipe with shop towels to remove protective oil.
• Install the new rotor onto the hub.

Step 8: Service the bracket and slide pins

• Reinstall new pad hardware/clips onto the bracket.
• Pull the slide pins out one at a time (they’re the smooth pins the caliper bolts thread into) and wipe clean with shop towels.
• Apply a thin coat of brake caliper slide pin grease (silicone) and reinstall the pins.
• Tip: Grease stays off pad friction surfaces.

Step 9: Reinstall the caliper bracket

• Position the bracket over the new rotor.
• Install the two bracket bolts by hand, then tighten with a 19mm socket and 1/2" drive torque wrench.
• Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs)

Step 10: Compress the caliper piston

• Place one old pad against the caliper piston face.
• Use a C-clamp (6" minimum) to slowly press the piston back into the caliper.
• Watch the brake fluid reservoir level under the hood as you compress.
• Tip: Go slow to avoid fluid overflow.

Step 11: Install new pads and reinstall the caliper

• Install the new pads into the bracket (they should slide smoothly in the new clips).
• Lower the caliper over the new pads.
• Install the caliper slide bolts using a 14mm socket and then torque with a 3/8" drive torque wrench.
• Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs)

Step 12: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts

• Reinstall the wheels and hand-thread the lug nuts.
• Lower the car off the jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern with a 21mm socket and 1/2" drive torque wrench.
• Torque to 113 Nm (83 ft-lbs)

Step 13: Repeat on the other side

• Repeat Steps 3–12 on the other front wheel.
• Tip: Do one side at a time for reference.

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✅ After Repair

• 🧪 Pump the brake pedal 10–15 times until it feels firm (this seats the pads against the rotors).
• 🧪 Check the brake fluid level and top off with DOT 3 brake fluid if needed.
• 🧪 Start the engine and hold the brake pedal—make sure it feels solid and doesn’t sink.
• 🧪 Do a slow test drive and confirm no pulling, grinding, or vibration.
• 🧪 Pad bed-in (recommended): 5–6 moderate stops from 35–40 mph down to 5–10 mph, with 30 seconds between stops. Avoid hard stops for the first 200 miles.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$800 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $160-$350 (parts only)

You Save: $290-$450 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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