🔧 Savana - Front Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement

You’ll remove the front wheels, unbolt the calipers, replace the pads and rotors, then reassemble and bed-in the new brakes. New rotors give you a flat, clean surface so the new pads can stop smoothly and quietly.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours

Assumption: Common Savana 2500 8-lug front brake setup; fastener sizes may vary slightly by brake option.

---

⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Support the van with jack stands—never rely on a floor jack alone.
• 🧱 Chock the rear wheels and keep the transmission in P.
• 🔥 Brakes can be hot—let everything cool before touching.
• 🧴 Don’t inhale brake dust; use brake cleaner and wipe with a rag.
• 🪝 Never let the caliper hang by the hose; support it with a hanger.
• 🧪 Brake fluid damages paint—cover fenders and wipe spills immediately.

---

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 22mm socket
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• 1/2" drive torque wrench (50-250 ft-lbs range)
• 15mm socket
• 18mm socket
• Ratchet (1/2" drive)
• Socket extension (3"-6")
• Large C-clamp (6")
• Flathead screwdriver
• Wire hook or bungee cord
• Dead-blow hammer
• Wire brush
• Brake parts cleaning brush
• Drip pan
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

---

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Front brake rotors - Qty: 2
• Front brake hardware kit (clips/shims) - Qty: 1
• Brake cleaner - Qty: 2 cans
• High-temp silicone brake grease - Qty: 1
• Medium-strength threadlocker - Qty: 1
• DOT 3 brake fluid - Qty: 1 quart

---

📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear tires.
• Loosen the front lug nuts 1/2 turn before lifting (use a 22mm socket and breaker bar).
• Open the hood and remove the brake fluid reservoir cap (this helps the pistons push back easier).
• Plan to do one side at a time so you can use the other side as a reference.

---

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the front end

• Use a floor jack to lift the front and set the frame securely on jack stands.
• Give the van a firm shake to confirm it’s stable before you crawl near the wheel well.

Step 2: Remove the front wheels

• Remove the lug nuts using a 22mm socket and ratchet.
• Set the wheel aside flat so it can’t roll.
• Reinstall 2 lug nuts finger-tight (optional) to keep the rotor from flopping while you work.

Step 3: Remove the caliper (the clamp that holds the pads)

• Turn the steering to give yourself room (use the steering wheel).
• Remove the caliper guide/slide bolts using a 15mm socket and ratchet.
• Lift the caliper off the bracket and hang it from the suspension using a wire hook or bungee cord.
• Tip: If tight, gently pry with a screwdriver.

Step 4: Remove the old pads and hardware

• Pull the pads out by hand; use a flathead screwdriver if they’re stuck.
• Remove the stainless pad clips from the bracket (these are the “hardware”).
• Clean the bracket pad “tracks” with a wire brush and spray with brake cleaner into a drip pan.
• Definition: Pad “tracks” are the metal ledges the pads slide on.

Step 5: Remove the caliper bracket

• Remove the bracket-to-knuckle bolts using an 18mm socket, breaker bar, and extension.
• Set the bracket on a clean surface.
• When reinstalling later: apply medium-strength threadlocker and Torque to 221 Nm (163 ft-lbs).

Step 6: Remove the old rotor

• Pull the rotor straight off the hub.
• If the rotor is rust-stuck, strike the rotor hat area with a dead-blow hammer to break it free.
• Clean the hub face (where the rotor sits) using a wire brush and brake cleaner.
• Tip: A clean hub helps prevent pedal pulsation.

Step 7: Install the new rotor

• Spray both sides of the new rotor with brake cleaner and wipe clean (removes anti-rust oil).
• Slide the rotor onto the hub.
• Hold the rotor in place with 1-2 lug nuts finger-tight (use your hands).

Step 8: Service the caliper slide pins

• Pull the slide pins out of the bracket by hand.
• Wipe clean and apply a thin coat of high-temp silicone brake grease.
• Reinsert the pins and make sure they move smoothly.
• Definition: Slide pins let the caliper “float” evenly.

Step 9: Install new hardware clips and pads

• Install the new hardware clips into the bracket by hand.
• Apply a very thin film of high-temp silicone brake grease where pad ears touch the clips.
• Install the new pads into the bracket (they should slide easily by hand).

Step 10: Reinstall the caliper bracket

• Position the bracket over the rotor and start the bolts by hand.
• Tighten using an 18mm socket and ratchet.
• Final tighten using a torque wrench: Torque to 221 Nm (163 ft-lbs).

Step 11: Compress the caliper piston and reinstall the caliper

• Place the old inner pad against the piston face, then compress the piston using a large C-clamp.
• Go slow and watch the brake fluid reservoir so it doesn’t overflow.
• Slide the caliper over the new pads and start the guide/slide bolts by hand.
• Tighten using a 15mm socket, then final tighten with a torque wrench: Torque to 38 Nm (28 ft-lbs).

Step 12: Reinstall the wheel

• Remove the finger-tight lug nuts holding the rotor (if used).
• Install the wheel and hand-thread all lug nuts.
• Snug the lug nuts using a 22mm socket in a star pattern.
• Lower the van and final tighten with a torque wrench: Torque to 190 Nm (140 ft-lbs).

Step 13: Repeat on the other front side

• Repeat Steps 2 through 12 on the other front wheel.
• Keep parts side-specific so nothing gets mixed up.

---

✅ After Repair

• With the engine off, slowly pump the brake pedal 10-15 times until it feels firm.
• Check the brake fluid level and top off with DOT 3 brake fluid if needed.
• Start the engine and confirm the pedal still feels firm.
• Test at low speed first (5-10 mph), then gradually increase speed if everything feels normal.
• Brake bed-in (helps prevent noise/vibration): make 6-8 medium stops from 40 to 10 mph, letting brakes cool 30-60 seconds between stops.
• Recheck lug nut torque after 25-50 miles using a torque wrench: Torque to 190 Nm (140 ft-lbs).

---

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $650-$1,050 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $250-$520 (parts only)

You Save: $400-$530 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.

---

🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.