How to Replace Front Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2003-2007 Honda Accord (Trim: EX | Engine: V6 3.5L | Body: Sedan)
Step-by-step DIY guide with required tools, parts list, safety tips, and key torque specs
How to Replace Front Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2003-2007 Honda Accord (Trim: EX | Engine: V6 3.5L | Body: Sedan)
Step-by-step DIY guide with required tools, parts list, safety tips, and key torque specs for 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007
🔧 Accord - Front Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement
You’ll remove the front wheels, take off the brake caliper and bracket, replace the pads, and swap the rotor. Worn pads/rotors reduce stopping power and can cause vibration, noise, or longer stopping distances.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- 🛑 Support the car with jack stands; never rely on a jack alone.
- 🛑 Do not press the brake pedal with the caliper removed.
- 🛑 Brake dust is unhealthy—wear a dust mask and avoid blowing dust with compressed air.
- 🛑 Brake fluid can damage paint—wipe spills immediately.
- 🛑 Let brakes cool before starting; parts can be very hot.
- 🛑 Battery disconnect is not required for this job.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
- Dust mask
- Breaker bar (1/2-inch drive)
- Torque wrench (1/2-inch drive)
- 19mm socket
- 12mm socket
- 17mm socket
- Ratchet (3/8-inch drive)
- Ratchet (1/2-inch drive)
- Flat-blade screwdriver
- Phillips screwdriver #3
- Brake caliper piston tool (specialty)
- Bungee cord
- Wire brush
- Rubber mallet
- Brake cleaner spray
- Drain pan
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Front brake pad set - Qty: 1
- Front brake rotors - Qty: 2 Replace in pairs
- Front brake hardware kit (clips/shims) - Qty: 1
- Brake caliper slide pin grease (silicone) - Qty: 1
- Brake quiet / anti-squeal compound - Qty: 1
- DOT 3 brake fluid - Qty: 1 quart
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
- Loosen the front wheel lug nuts 1/2 turn using a 19mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.
- Open the hood and locate the brake fluid reservoir. Plan to watch the fluid level when compressing pistons so it doesn’t overflow.
- Lay out new pads/rotors/hardware. Spray new rotors with brake cleaner spray to remove protective oil.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Lift and secure the front end
- Use a floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum) to lift the front at the proper front jacking point.
- Set the car on jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum).
- Remove the wheels using a 19mm socket.
Step 2: Inspect and prep the caliper
- Turn the steering wheel to give yourself room (left for right side, right for left side).
- Check the rubber brake hose for cracks and leaks.
- Place a drain pan under the work area in case of cleaner/fluid drips.
Step 3: Remove the brake caliper
- Remove the two caliper slide pin bolts using a 12mm socket and ratchet (3/8-inch drive).
- Carefully lift the caliper off the bracket.
- Hang the caliper from the suspension using a bungee cord. Never let it hang by the hose.
Step 4: Remove the old pads and hardware
- Slide the pads out of the bracket by hand; use a flat-blade screwdriver gently if stuck.
- Remove the stainless hardware clips from the bracket.
- Clean the bracket pad “rails” (where clips sit) using brake cleaner spray and a wire brush.
Step 5: Remove the caliper bracket
- Remove the two caliper bracket bolts using a 17mm socket and breaker bar (1/2-inch drive).
- Set the bracket aside.
- During reassembly: Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs).
Step 6: Remove the rotor
- If your rotor has retaining screws, remove them with a Phillips screwdriver #3. Press hard to avoid stripping.
- Pull the rotor straight off. If stuck, tap the rotor hat with a rubber mallet to break rust loose.
- Clean the wheel hub face using a wire brush and brake cleaner spray so the new rotor sits flat.
Step 7: Install the new rotor
- Spray both rotor faces with brake cleaner spray and wipe clean.
- Install the rotor onto the hub.
- If you have rotor screws, reinstall them using a Phillips screwdriver #3 (snug only).
Step 8: Reinstall the bracket with new hardware clips
- Install the new hardware clips onto the bracket.
- Reinstall the bracket using a 17mm socket and ratchet (1/2-inch drive).
- Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs).
Step 9: Service slide pins (important for even braking)
- Pull the slide pins out of the bracket by hand.
- Wipe them clean, then apply a thin coat of brake caliper slide pin grease (silicone).
- Reinsert pins and make sure they move smoothly.
- Slide pins are the “guide rods” the caliper glides on.
Step 10: Install the new pads
- Apply a thin layer of brake quiet / anti-squeal compound to the pad backing plates (not the friction material).
- Install the inner and outer pads into the bracket by hand.
Step 11: Compress the caliper piston
- Check the brake fluid reservoir level first; remove some fluid with a clean towel if it’s near “MAX.”
- Use a brake caliper piston tool (specialty) to slowly push the piston back into the caliper.
- Go slow so fluid doesn’t overflow.
Step 12: Reinstall the caliper
- Place the caliper over the new pads.
- Install the two slide pin bolts using a 12mm socket and ratchet (3/8-inch drive).
- Torque to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs).
Step 13: Reinstall wheels
- Reinstall the wheels and hand-thread lug nuts.
- Lower the car off the stands using the floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum).
- Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench (1/2-inch drive) and 19mm socket.
- Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs).
Step 14: Restore pedal feel and check fluid
- Before moving the car, pump the brake pedal 10–15 times until it feels firm.
- Check the brake fluid reservoir and top off with DOT 3 brake fluid if needed.
- Look for leaks around both front calipers.
✅ After Repair
- Test at low speed first: confirm normal stopping, no pulling, no grinding.
- Bed-in (break-in) the pads and rotors: make 8–10 moderate stops from 40 mph down to 10 mph, with 30 seconds between stops, then drive 5–10 minutes to cool.
- Re-check lug nut torque after 25–50 miles using a torque wrench (1/2-inch drive).
- If the pedal feels spongy, you may need a brake bleed (air in system).
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $450-$900 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $160-$350 (parts only)
You Save: $290-$550 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.
Guide for Disc Brake Pad Set replace for these Honda vehicles
| Year Make Model | Sub Model | Engine | Body Style |
|---|---|---|---|
| 2007 Honda Accord | EX | V6 3.0L | Coupe |
| 2007 Honda Accord | EX-L | V6 3.0L | Coupe |
| 2006 Honda Accord | EX | V6 3.0L | Coupe |
| 2005 Honda Accord | EX | V6 3.0L | Coupe |
| 2004 Honda Accord | EX | V6 3.0L | Coupe |
| 2003 Honda Accord | EX | V6 3.0L | Coupe |


















