🔧 Wheel Bearings - Front & Rear Replacement

This guide covers replacing wheel bearings on your Altima. On your Altima, the front wheel bearings are pressed into the steering knuckle and require a hub/bearing press tool or shop press, while the rear wheel bearings are serviced as bolt-on hub bearing assemblies.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 5-8 hours for all four

---

⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on level ground and support your Altima with jack stands before removing any wheels.
• ⚠️ Never rely on a floor jack alone. A floor jack lifts the car; jack stands hold it safely.
• ⚠️ Front bearing replacement requires high pressing force. Misalignment can damage the knuckle, bearing, or hub.
• ⚠️ Do not let brake calipers hang by the brake hose. Support them with mechanics wire or a bungee cord.
• ⚠️ The front axle nut is very tight and should be replaced after removal.
• ⚠️ Disconnecting the battery is not normally required for this repair.

---

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
• 1/2-inch drive torque wrench (250 ft-lb capacity)
• 3/8-inch drive torque wrench (100 ft-lb capacity)
• 21mm socket
• 22mm socket
• 32mm axle nut socket
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• 18mm socket
• 19mm socket
• 10mm socket
• Ratchet set
• Needle-nose pliers
• Flat-blade screwdriver
• Ball joint separator (specialty)
• Slide hammer hub puller (specialty)
• Wheel bearing press kit (specialty)
• Shop press 12-ton minimum (specialty)
• Snap ring pliers (specialty)
• Hub bearing driver set (specialty)
• Dead-blow hammer
• Rubber mallet
• Pry bar
• Mechanics wire
• Brake cleaner
• Wire brush

---

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front wheel bearings - Qty: 2
• Front hub assemblies - Qty: 2
• Rear wheel hub bearing assemblies - Qty: 2
• Front axle nuts - Qty: 2
• Front wheel bearing retaining snap rings - Qty: 2
• Cotter pins - Qty: 2
• Brake cleaner - Qty: 1 can
• Anti-seize compound - Qty: 1 tube

---

📋 Before You Begin

• 🅿️ Park your Altima on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
• 🧱 Place wheel chocks behind the wheels that stay on the ground.
• 🔩 Loosen the wheel lug nuts 1/2 turn with a 21mm socket before lifting the car.
• 🔩 Loosen both front axle nuts with a 32mm axle nut socket while the tires are still on the ground.
• 📌 A snap ring is a strong circular clip that locks the bearing in the knuckle.
• 📌 A steering knuckle is the metal suspension part that holds the wheel hub, bearing, brake, and strut connection.

---

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise and Support the Vehicle

• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front of your Altima at the front center jacking point.
• Place jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) under the proper front pinch weld or subframe support points.
• Use the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the rear and support it with jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Gently shake the car by hand to confirm it is stable before working underneath or near the wheels.

Step 2: Remove the Wheels

• Use a 21mm socket and ratchet to remove all four wheel lug nuts.
• Remove the wheels and set them flat aside.
• Slide wheels under car as backup.

Step 3: Remove the Front Brake Caliper and Rotor

• Start on one front side.
• Use a 14mm socket to remove the two front caliper slide pin bolts.
• Lift the caliper off the bracket and support it with mechanics wire.
• Use a 19mm socket to remove the caliper bracket bolts.
• Remove the brake rotor by hand. If stuck, tap the rotor hat with a dead-blow hammer.

Step 4: Remove the Front Axle Nut

• Use a 32mm axle nut socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to remove the front axle nut.
• If the axle splines are stuck in the hub, thread the old axle nut on a few turns and tap it lightly with a dead-blow hammer.
• Do not hit the axle directly with a steel hammer.

Step 5: Disconnect the Front ABS Wheel Speed Sensor

• Use a 10mm socket to remove the ABS sensor retaining bolt from the steering knuckle.
• Gently twist and pull the sensor out by hand.
• Move the wire out of the way without stretching it.

Step 6: Remove the Front Knuckle Assembly

• Use a 17mm socket or 18mm socket to remove the outer tie rod nut.
• Use a ball joint separator (specialty) to separate the tie rod from the knuckle.
• Use a 19mm socket to remove the lower ball joint pinch bolt or nut, depending on the installed hardware.
• Use a ball joint separator (specialty) to separate the lower ball joint from the knuckle.
• Use a 22mm socket to remove the two strut-to-knuckle bolts.
• Pull the knuckle outward while guiding the axle out of the hub splines by hand.
• Remove the knuckle from the car.
• Mark strut bolt positions before removal.

Step 7: Press Out the Front Hub

• Place the knuckle in a shop press 12-ton minimum (specialty) or use a wheel bearing press kit (specialty).
• Use a hub bearing driver set (specialty) that supports the knuckle around the bearing bore.
• Press the wheel hub out from the bearing.
• The inner bearing race may stay on the hub. Remove it with the correct bearing splitter from the hub bearing driver set (specialty) if needed.

Step 8: Remove the Front Bearing Snap Ring

• Use snap ring pliers (specialty) to remove the bearing retaining snap ring from the knuckle.
• Use a wire brush and brake cleaner to clean rust and dirt from the snap ring groove.

Step 9: Press Out the Old Front Bearing

• Use the shop press 12-ton minimum (specialty) and hub bearing driver set (specialty) to press the old bearing out of the knuckle.
• Support the knuckle squarely so the bearing comes out straight.
• Clean the bearing bore with a wire brush and brake cleaner.

Step 10: Press In the New Front Bearing

• Use the shop press 12-ton minimum (specialty) and hub bearing driver set (specialty) to press the new bearing into the knuckle.
• Press only on the outer race of the bearing. The race is the strong metal ring around the bearing.
• Make sure the bearing seats fully in the knuckle.
• Install the new snap ring with snap ring pliers (specialty).

Step 11: Press In the Front Hub

• Use the shop press 12-ton minimum (specialty) and hub bearing driver set (specialty) to press the hub into the new bearing.
• Support the inner bearing race while pressing the hub in.
• This prevents pushing the new bearing apart.

Step 12: Reinstall the Front Knuckle

• Guide the axle splines through the hub by hand.
• Position the knuckle onto the strut.
• Use a 22mm socket to install the strut-to-knuckle bolts and nuts.
• Torque strut-to-knuckle fasteners to 155 Nm (114 ft-lbs).
• Use a 19mm socket to install the lower ball joint fastener.
• Torque lower ball joint fastener to 83 Nm (61 ft-lbs).
• Use a 17mm socket or 18mm socket to install the outer tie rod nut.
• Torque outer tie rod nut to 35 Nm (26 ft-lbs), then tighten further only enough to install the cotter pin if equipped.

Step 13: Install the Front Axle Nut

• Thread a new front axle nut on by hand.
• Use a 32mm axle nut socket to snug the nut while the vehicle is still raised.
• Final torque happens after the wheel is installed and the tire is on the ground.

Step 14: Reinstall the Front ABS Sensor, Rotor, and Caliper

• Use a 10mm socket to install the ABS wheel speed sensor bolt.
• Torque ABS sensor bolt to 8 Nm (71 in-lbs).
• Slide the brake rotor onto the hub by hand.
• Use a 19mm socket to install the caliper bracket bolts.
• Torque front caliper bracket bolts to 113 Nm (83 ft-lbs).
• Install the caliper over the rotor.
• Use a 14mm socket to install the caliper slide pin bolts.
• Torque front caliper slide pin bolts to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs).

Step 15: Repeat Front Bearing Replacement on the Other Side

• Repeat Steps 3 through 14 on the opposite front side using the same tools.
• Always replace front wheel bearings and hubs in pairs when doing both sides.

Step 16: Remove the Rear Brake Caliper and Rotor

• Move to one rear side.
• Make sure the parking brake is released before removing the rear rotor.
• Use a 14mm socket to remove the rear caliper slide pin bolts.
• Support the caliper with mechanics wire.
• Use a 17mm socket to remove the rear caliper bracket bolts.
• Remove the rear rotor by hand. If stuck, tap the rotor hat with a dead-blow hammer.

Step 17: Remove the Rear Hub Bearing Assembly

• Use a 10mm socket to remove the rear ABS sensor retaining bolt if the sensor blocks hub removal.
• Use a 17mm socket or 18mm socket to remove the rear hub bearing mounting bolts from the back side of the rear knuckle.
• Use a slide hammer hub puller (specialty) if the hub is rusted into the knuckle.
• Remove the rear hub bearing assembly.
• Clean the mounting face with a wire brush and brake cleaner.

Step 18: Install the New Rear Hub Bearing Assembly

• Apply a very thin coat of anti-seize compound to the rear knuckle mounting face.
• Do not get anti-seize on the brake rotor or wheel studs.
• Position the new rear hub bearing assembly into the knuckle by hand.
• Use a 17mm socket or 18mm socket to install the hub mounting bolts.
• Torque rear hub bearing mounting bolts to 85 Nm (63 ft-lbs).
• Use a 10mm socket to reinstall the ABS sensor if removed.
• Torque ABS sensor bolt to 8 Nm (71 in-lbs).

Step 19: Reinstall the Rear Rotor and Caliper

• Slide the rear rotor onto the new hub by hand.
• Use a 17mm socket to install the rear caliper bracket bolts.
• Torque rear caliper bracket bolts to 85 Nm (63 ft-lbs).
• Install the rear caliper over the rotor.
• Use a 14mm socket to install the rear caliper slide pin bolts.
• Torque rear caliper slide pin bolts to 27 Nm (20 ft-lbs).

Step 20: Repeat Rear Bearing Replacement on the Other Side

• Repeat Steps 16 through 19 on the opposite rear side using the same tools.
• Replace rear hub bearing assemblies in pairs when doing both sides.

Step 21: Reinstall Wheels and Final Torque

• Install all four wheels by hand.
• Use a 21mm socket to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.
• Lower your Altima until the tires touch the ground and cannot spin.
• Use a 32mm axle nut socket and 1/2-inch drive torque wrench (250 ft-lb capacity) to final-tighten the front axle nuts.
• Torque front axle nuts to 177 Nm (130 ft-lbs).
• Lower the car fully.
• Use a 21mm socket and 1/2-inch drive torque wrench (250 ft-lb capacity) to tighten the wheel lug nuts.
• Torque wheel lug nuts to 113 Nm (83 ft-lbs).

---

✅ After Repair

• ✅ Pump the brake pedal several times before driving. The pedal should feel firm.
• ✅ Start with a slow test drive in a safe area.
• ✅ Listen for humming, grinding, clicking, or ABS warning lights.
• ✅ If the steering wheel is off-center or the car pulls, get a wheel alignment because the front knuckles were removed.
• ✅ Recheck lug nut torque after 25-50 miles.
• ✅ If an ABS light comes on, inspect the ABS sensor connection and sensor seating at each hub.

---

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $1,200-$2,000 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $350-$800 (parts only)

You Save: $850-$1,200 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 5-8 hours.

---

🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.