🔧 Grand Cherokee WK - Strut Replacement

We’ll go through how to replace the struts on your Grand Cherokee WK step by step, in simple language. This will involve safely lifting the vehicle, removing the old strut assembly, and installing a new one with correct torque.

Difficulty Level: Advanced (for a first-timer) | Estimated Time: 4-6 hours for both fronts, 3-4 hours for both rears

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Always use jack stands, never rely only on a floor jack.
• ⚠️ Work on level, solid ground and chock (block) the wheels that stay on the ground.
• ⚠️ Coil springs store a lot of energy. Use a proper strut spring compressor if you are transferring springs, and follow its instructions carefully.
• ⚠️ Wear safety glasses and mechanic gloves to protect your eyes and hands.
• ⚠️ Do not work under the vehicle while it’s only supported by a jack.
• ⚠️ After strut replacement, a professional wheel alignment is strongly recommended.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this job.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 🛠️ Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• 🛠️ Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum, Qty: 2-4)
• 🛠️ Wheel chocks
• 🛠️ 21mm socket
• 🛠️ 19mm socket
• 🛠️ 18mm socket
• 🛠️ 15mm socket
• 🛠️ 10mm socket
• 🛠️ 21mm combination wrench
• 🛠️ 19mm combination wrench
• 🛠️ 18mm combination wrench
• 🛠️ 15mm combination wrench
• 🛠️ 1/2" drive ratchet
• 🛠️ 3/8" drive ratchet
• 🛠️ 1/2" drive breaker bar
• 🛠️ Torque wrench (10-200 ft-lbs range)
• 🛠️ Pry bar (medium length)
• 🛠️ Hammer (16-24 oz)
• 🛠️ Needle-nose pliers
• 🛠️ Flathead screwdriver (medium)
• 🛠️ Torx T30 screwdriver
• 🛠️ Allen key set (metric)
• 🛠️ Strut spring compressor (external, clamp style) (specialty)
• 🛠️ Metric hex bit socket set (for sway bar links, if required)
• 🛠️ Penetrating oil spray
• 🛠️ Paint marker or white marker
• 🛠️ Safety glasses
• 🛠️ Mechanic gloves
• 🛠️ Shop rags

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• 🔩 Front complete strut assembly (left) - Qty: 1
• 🔩 Front complete strut assembly (right) - Qty: 1
• 🔩 Rear shock/strut assembly (left) - Qty: 1
• 🔩 Rear shock/strut assembly (right) - Qty: 1
• 🔩 New front upper strut mount nuts - Qty: 6
• 🔩 New front strut-to-knuckle bolts and nuts - Qty: 4
• 🔩 New rear lower shock bolts and nuts - Qty: 2
• 🔩 New rear upper shock nuts/bolts - Qty: 2-4
• 🔩 Anti-seize compound - Qty: 1 small tube
• 🔩 Penetrating oil - Qty: 1 can

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🚗 Park the Grand Cherokee on level ground, engage the parking brake, and put the transmission in Park.
• 🧱 Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels when working on the front, and in front of the front wheels when working on the rear.
• 🧴 Spray penetrating oil on all strut mounting bolts and nuts (top mounts, lower strut-to-knuckle bolts, sway bar link nuts, and rear shock hardware) 10–15 minutes before you start.
• 📷 Take a few clear photos of each area before disassembly. Helps you remember reassembly
• 📝 Plan for a wheel alignment after you finish all struts.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and Support the Front of the Vehicle

• Loosen the front wheel lug nuts 1/2 turn using the 21mm socket and 1/2" drive breaker bar while the vehicle is still on the ground.
• Position the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) under the front center jacking point (crossmember area) and raise the front until both front wheels are off the ground.
• Place jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) under the factory-approved pinch welds or frame areas on each side and slowly lower the vehicle onto the stands.
• Confirm stability by gently pushing the body; it should not rock. Never crawl under an unstable vehicle
• Remove the front wheels completely using the 21mm socket and 1/2" drive ratchet.

Step 2: Identify Front Strut Connections

• Look at the front strut: it connects at the top to the body (three small nuts) and at the bottom to the steering knuckle with two large bolts.
• Note the sway bar link connection (small “rod” connecting to the strut) and any clips for brake hose or ABS wire attached to the strut body.
• Use the paint marker to mark the relative position of the strut to the knuckle around the lower mounting area. Helps with rough alignment

Step 3: Disconnect Brake Hose/ABS Wire from Front Strut

• Use the 10mm socket or Torx T30 screwdriver (depending on fastener) to remove any small bolts holding the brake hose/ABS wire brackets to the strut.
• Use the needle-nose pliers or flathead screwdriver to gently open any plastic clips securing the wiring to the strut body.
• Move the hose and wiring out of the way, but do not stretch them.

Step 4: Disconnect the Front Sway Bar Link from the Strut

• Use the 18mm socket on the nut of the sway bar link where it attaches to the strut.
• If the stud spins, insert the correct Allen key (metric) or metric hex bit socket into the end of the stud to hold it while turning the nut with the 18mm combination wrench.
• Push the link out of the strut tab and let it hang from the sway bar.

Step 5: Remove Lower Front Strut-to-Knuckle Bolts

• Support the lower control arm or knuckle with the floor jack just enough to relieve tension (do not lift off the jack stands).
• Use a 21mm socket and 1/2" drive breaker bar on the nut side, and a 21mm combination wrench on the bolt head to loosen the two large strut-to-knuckle bolts.
• Remove the nuts, then tap the bolt ends with the hammer while supporting the knuckle until the bolts slide out. Do not hit threads directly; thread the nut on a few turns to protect them.
• Once both bolts are out, the knuckle will be free from the strut but still supported by the ball joints and tie rod; do not let it pull on the brake hose.

Step 6: Remove Upper Front Strut Mount Nuts

• Open the hood and locate the top of the strut towers on each side in the engine bay.
• Use the 15mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet to remove the three small nuts holding the strut mount to the body. Leave the center nut alone if you are using complete assemblies.
• Support the strut from below with one hand or the floor jack as you remove the last nut so it does not drop suddenly.

Step 7: Remove the Front Strut Assembly

• From the wheel well, pull the bottom of the strut out from the knuckle area and lower it carefully.
• Guide the top studs down through the body opening and remove the complete strut assembly from the vehicle.
• Set it on the ground in the same orientation it came out.

Step 8: Prepare New Front Strut Assembly

• If you purchased complete loaded struts (with spring and mount already installed), you can skip using the spring compressor.
• If you must transfer springs: mount the old strut in the strut spring compressor (specialty), carefully compress the spring, remove the top nut with the correct socket and Allen key, then move the spring onto the new strut and reverse the process. Follow compressor instructions closely
• Lightly coat the new lower strut bolt holes and the knuckle ears with anti-seize compound using a shop rag.

Step 9: Install New Front Strut Assembly

• Position the new strut into the wheel well, guiding the top studs into the holes in the body.
• Start the new upper mount nuts by hand, using the 15mm socket just to snug them—do not fully tighten yet.
• Align the bottom of the strut with the steering knuckle. You may need to adjust the knuckle position slightly with a pry bar and the floor jack.
• Insert the new lower strut-to-knuckle bolts by hand, matching your paint mark orientation as closely as possible.

Step 10: Tighten Front Strut Hardware

• Install the new nuts on the lower bolts, then use the 21mm socket, 21mm combination wrench, and torque wrench to tighten both lower bolts to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs).
• In the engine bay, use the 15mm socket and torque wrench to tighten the three upper strut mount nuts to 47 Nm (35 ft-lbs).

Step 11: Reattach Sway Bar Link and Brake/ABS Lines (Front)

• Slide the sway bar link stud back into the strut tab, install the nut, and tighten with the 18mm socket and torque wrench to 75 Nm (55 ft-lbs) while holding the stud with the correct Allen key if needed.
• Reinstall brake hose and ABS wire brackets using the 10mm socket or Torx T30 screwdriver and snug them securely (about 10 Nm / 7 ft-lbs is enough).
• Make sure no hoses or wires are twisted or stretched.

Step 12: Repeat for the Other Front Side

• Repeat Steps 2–11 for the other front strut.
• Always replace struts in pairs (both fronts together).

Step 13: Reinstall Front Wheels and Lower Vehicle

• Install the front wheels and thread the lug nuts by hand.
• Use the 21mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.
• Raise the vehicle slightly with the floor jack, remove the jack stands, then lower the vehicle fully to the ground.
• Use the torque wrench and 21mm socket to torque the lug nuts in a star pattern to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs).

Step 14: Lift and Support the Rear of the Vehicle

• Move wheel chocks to the front of the front wheels.
• Loosen the rear wheel lug nuts 1/2 turn using the 21mm socket and 1/2" drive breaker bar.
• Position the floor jack under the rear differential or approved center point and raise the rear of the vehicle.
• Place jack stands under the rear frame or pinch welds and lower the vehicle onto the stands.
• Remove the rear wheels using the 21mm socket and 1/2" drive ratchet.

Step 15: Remove Rear Shock/Strut (Each Side)

• Support the rear lower control arm or axle near the shock with the floor jack to relieve tension.
• Use the 18mm socket and breaker bar at the lower shock bolt, holding the nut with an 18mm combination wrench. Remove the bolt and nut.
• At the top shock mount, use the appropriate size (commonly 15mm or 18mm socket) and 3/8" drive ratchet to remove the upper mounting bolts or nuts inside the wheel well.
• Remove the rear shock/strut assembly from the vehicle.

Step 16: Install Rear Shock/Strut (Each Side)

• Position the new rear shock/strut assembly in place and start the upper bolts or nuts by hand using the correct socket.
• Install the lower bolt and nut by hand while the lower control arm is still supported by the floor jack.
• Use the 18mm socket, 18mm combination wrench, and torque wrench to tighten the lower bolt to 115 Nm (85 ft-lbs).
• Tighten the upper mounting bolts/nuts with the torque wrench to 47 Nm (35 ft-lbs) using the correct socket size.

Step 17: Repeat Rear Shock/Strut Replacement on the Other Side

• Repeat Steps 15–16 on the opposite rear side.
• Always replace rear shocks/struts in pairs.

Step 18: Reinstall Rear Wheels and Lower Vehicle

• Install the rear wheels and thread the lug nuts by hand.
• Snug the nuts in a star pattern using the 21mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet.
• Raise the rear slightly with the floor jack, remove the jack stands, then lower the vehicle completely.
• Torque the rear lug nuts with the torque wrench and 21mm socket to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs) in a star pattern.

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✅ After Repair

• 🚘 Bounce each corner of the vehicle by hand to make sure it moves smoothly and returns to normal height without strange noises.
• 🔍 Visually check that all bolts, nuts, and clips are reinstalled and tight, and that no brake hoses or ABS wires are twisted or stretched.
• 🛞 Schedule a professional wheel alignment as soon as possible to prevent tire wear and to restore proper handling.
• 🧪 Test-drive at low speed first: listen for clunks, rattles, or pulling. If anything feels wrong, stop and recheck your work.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$1,400 (parts + labor) for all four corners

DIY Cost: $350-$750 (parts only, depending on brand and whether you buy complete assemblies)

You Save: $550-$650 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-4 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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