🔧 Forester - Strut Replacement

Replacing struts means removing the complete suspension “strut assembly” at each corner and installing a new one. On your Forester, doing this wrong can be dangerous because the coil spring stores a lot of energy, and you’ll also need a wheel alignment afterward.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate (Advanced if swapping springs) | Estimated Time: 2.5–6.0 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Never loosen the center nut on top of a strut unless the spring is safely compressed (the spring can release violently).
• ⚠️ Support the vehicle with jack stands at the pinch welds or approved lift points; never rely on a jack alone.
• ⚠️ If equipped with EyeSight (your Forester Touring is), get an alignment after strut work; incorrect alignment can affect safety systems.
• ⚠️ Keep ABS/brake hoses from stretching; do not let the knuckle hang by the hose/wiring.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Lug wrench or 19mm socket
• Socket set (8mm–22mm)
• Wrench set (8mm–22mm)
• Breaker bar (1/2")
• Torque wrench (20–200 ft-lbs range)
• Pry bar
• Trim clip tool
• Needle-nose pliers
• Penetrating oil
• Paint marker
• Bungee cord
• Spring compressor (external hook type) (specialty)
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front strut assemblies (complete/quick-struts) or front struts (bare) - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Rear strut assemblies (complete/quick-struts) or rear struts (bare) - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front strut mount/top hat (if not included with assembly) - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Rear strut mount/top hat (if not included with assembly) - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Bump stops and dust boots (if not included) - Qty: 4
• Sway bar end links (optional, if worn) - Qty: 2 front / 2 rear
• New strut-to-knuckle bolts and nuts (optional, if corroded) - Qty: 4–8

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🧰 Park on level ground, wheels straight, and set the parking brake.
• 🧰 Chock the wheels that stay on the ground.
• 🧰 Soak strut-to-knuckle bolts and sway link nuts with penetrating oil 10–20 minutes before removal.
• 🧰 Decide your method: complete “quick-strut” assemblies (safer/easier) vs transferring the spring (requires a spring compressor).

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Confirm what you’re replacing (important)

• Are you doing front, rear, or all four struts?
• Are you installing complete quick-strut assemblies, or reusing your springs (spring compressor required)?
• Reply with those 2 answers and I’ll tailor it.

Step 2: Lift and remove the wheel (corner you’re working on)

• Use wheel chocks on the opposite end.
• Use lug wrench or 19mm socket to crack lug nuts loose 1/4 turn.
• Use floor jack to lift, then set onto jack stands.
• Remove lug nuts with 19mm socket and remove the wheel.

Step 3: Disconnect brackets and links from the strut (do not stretch hoses)

• Use trim clip tool and needle-nose pliers to free any ABS wire clips from the strut body.
• Use the correct socket/wrench set to remove the brake hose/ABS brackets from the strut (if equipped).
• Use wrench set to remove the sway bar end link nut at the strut.
• Support the knuckle with a bungee cord so it can’t pull on the hose/wiring.
• If the link spins, hold the stud with a wrench.

Step 4: Remove the strut-to-knuckle bolts

• Mark the bolt positions with a paint marker so you can reassemble close to the original alignment.
• Use breaker bar (1/2") and the correct socket set to loosen and remove the lower bolts/nuts connecting the strut to the knuckle.
• Use a pry bar as needed to separate the knuckle from the strut.
• Stop here for torque specs: Subaru uses specific torque values that vary by front vs rear and hardware type; once you confirm front/rear and quick-strut vs spring swap, I’ll give the exact Torque to XX Nm (YY ft-lbs) values for every fastener you touch.

Step 5: Remove the top mount nuts and take the strut assembly out

• Open the hood (front) or access the rear strut towers (rear) as applicable.
• Use the correct socket set to remove the strut top mount nuts.
• Remove the strut assembly from the wheel well carefully.
• Do not remove the center strut shaft nut unless the spring is compressed with a spring compressor (specialty).
• Keep fingers out of pinch points.

Step 6: If transferring the spring (skip if using quick-struts)

• Install the spring compressor (external hook type) (specialty) on opposite sides of the spring.
• Tighten both sides evenly using the appropriate wrench set until the spring is loose in the mount.
• Then remove the center nut using the correct socket set while holding the shaft if needed with a wrench set.
• Move the spring, boot, bump stop, and mount to the new strut in the same orientation.
• Even compression is safer and straighter.

Step 7: Reinstall the strut assembly

• Position the strut in the tower and hand-start the top nuts using the correct socket set.
• Line up the knuckle and insert the lower bolts; use a pry bar as needed.
• Reattach sway link and all brackets using the correct socket set and wrench set.
• Tighten all fasteners using a torque wrench to the correct Subaru specs (I’ll provide them once you answer Step 1).

Step 8: Reinstall wheel and lower

• Install wheel and hand-tighten lug nuts using a 19mm socket.
• Lower vehicle from jack stands using the floor jack.
• Torque lug nuts using a torque wrench to Subaru spec.

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✅ After Repair

• 🧪 Do a slow test drive and listen for clunks over bumps.
• 🧪 Recheck all visible fasteners and bracket routing; make sure no hose/wire is twisted or rubbing.
• 🧪 Get a professional 4-wheel alignment ASAP (strut removal affects camber/toe).
• 🧪 If you replaced only one side, expect pull/uneven ride; replace struts in pairs.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$2,200 (parts + labor, depending on front/rear/all four and OE vs aftermarket)

DIY Cost: $350-$1,400 (parts only, depending on quick-struts vs bare struts)

You Save: $550-$800+ by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2.5–6.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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