🔧 Legacy - Strut Replacement

Replacing the struts restores ride control, braking stability, and prevents uneven tire wear. On your Legacy, you’ll remove the strut assemblies (front and/or rear) and install new ones, then get an alignment.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 4-8 hours

Assumption: You’re replacing complete “quick-strut” assemblies (recommended).

---

⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Never loosen the strut center nut unless the spring is safely compressed.
• ⚠️ Use jack stands; never rely on a floor jack alone.
• ⚠️ Support the steering knuckle so you don’t over-stretch the CV axle.
• ⚠️ Mark camber bolt positions before removal to keep alignment close.
• ⚠️ Keep hands clear of pinch points when separating the knuckle from the strut.
• Battery disconnect is not required for this job.

---

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Breaker bar (1/2" drive)
• Torque wrench (1/2" drive, 30-200 ft-lbs range)
• Torque wrench (3/8" drive, 10-80 ft-lbs range)
• Ratchet (3/8" drive)
• Socket set 10mm-19mm (3/8" drive)
• Socket set 14mm-21mm (1/2" drive)
• Wrench set 12mm-19mm
• Pass-through strut nut socket set (specialty)
• Hex key set (metric)
• Pry bar (18")
• Needle-nose pliers
• Trim panel tool set
• Paint marker
• Penetrating oil
• Bungee cord
• Coil spring compressor (specialty)

---

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front quick-strut assemblies - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Rear quick-strut assemblies - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front strut-to-knuckle hardware - Qty: 1 kit
• Rear strut lower bolt/nut hardware - Qty: 1 kit
• Anti-seize compound - Qty: 1

---

📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, turn the steering wheel straight, and set the parking brake.
• Chock the wheels that stay on the ground using wheel chocks.
• Crack the lug nuts loose with a 19mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.
• Spray visible strut bolts and sway bar end link nuts with penetrating oil and wait 5-10 minutes.
• If doing the rear, open the trunk and clear cargo so you can access the upper mounts.

---

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and remove the wheel

• Lift the corner with a floor jack and place jack stands under safe lift points.
• Remove lug nuts using a 19mm socket, then remove the wheel.

Step 2: (Front) Disconnect brackets and the sway bar end link

• Remove the brake hose/ABS wire brackets from the strut using a 10mm socket or 12mm socket (varies by bracket).
• Remove the front sway bar end link nut at the strut using a 17mm wrench and hex key to hold the stud if it spins.

Step 3: (Front) Mark camber bolt position

• Use a paint marker to mark the relationship between the strut and steering knuckle at the upper strut-to-knuckle bolt.
• This helps keep alignment close enough to drive to the shop.

Step 4: (Front) Remove strut-to-knuckle bolts

• Support the steering knuckle with a bungee cord so it doesn’t drop and pull on the axle.
• Remove the two strut-to-knuckle bolts using a 19mm socket and breaker bar while holding the nut with a 19mm wrench.
• Tap bolts out gently if stuck.

Step 5: (Front) Remove upper strut mount nuts and remove strut

• Open the hood.
• Remove the upper strut mount nuts using a 12mm socket or 14mm socket (varies by mount).
• Hold the strut with one hand as you remove the last nut, then pull the strut assembly out.

Step 6: (Rear) Access rear upper strut mount nuts

• In the trunk, remove the trim panels near the strut towers using a trim panel tool set and needle-nose pliers.
• Locate the rear upper mount nuts.

Step 7: (Rear) Remove lower bolt, then upper nuts, then remove strut

• At the rear knuckle, remove the lower strut bolt/nut using a 17mm socket or 19mm socket and a matching wrench (varies by hardware).
• In the trunk, remove the upper mount nuts using a 12mm socket or 14mm socket (varies by mount).
• Pull the rear strut assembly out of the wheel well.

Step 8: If you are NOT using quick-struts (spring transfer)

• Install a coil spring compressor (specialty) on the spring. This tool clamps the spring so it can’t expand violently.
• Compress evenly, alternating sides with a ratchet until the spring is loose in the mount.
• Remove the center strut nut using a pass-through strut nut socket set (specialty) and hex key set (metric) to hold the shaft.
• Transfer mount/bearing/boot, then reassemble and slowly release the compressors.

Step 9: Install the new strut assembly (Front)

• Position the strut in the tower and hand-thread the upper mount nuts using a 12mm socket or 14mm socket.
• Slide the knuckle into place and install the two strut-to-knuckle bolts using a 19mm socket and 19mm wrench.
• Align your paint marks before final tightening.
• Torque upper mount nuts to 39 Nm (29 ft-lbs).
• Torque strut-to-knuckle bolts to 175 Nm (129 ft-lbs).

Step 10: Reattach end link and brackets (Front)

• Install the sway bar end link nut using a 17mm wrench and hex key as needed.
• Torque sway bar end link nut to 55 Nm (41 ft-lbs).
• Reinstall brake hose/ABS brackets using a 10mm socket or 12mm socket.
• Torque small bracket bolts to 18 Nm (13 ft-lbs).

Step 11: Install the new strut assembly (Rear)

• Position the rear strut and hand-thread the upper nuts using a 12mm socket or 14mm socket.
• Install the lower bolt/nut using a 17mm socket or 19mm socket and matching wrench.
• Torque rear upper mount nuts to 39 Nm (29 ft-lbs).
• Torque rear lower strut bolt to 140 Nm (103 ft-lbs).
• Reinstall trunk trim using a trim panel tool set.

Step 12: Reinstall wheels and lower the car

• Reinstall wheels and hand-thread lug nuts.
• Lower the car off the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Torque lug nuts to 120 Nm (89 ft-lbs) in a star pattern using a torque wrench.

---

✅ After Repair

• Start the car and turn the steering lock-to-lock slowly to confirm no rubbing or hose stretch.
• Road test at low speed first; listen for clunks over bumps.
• Get a 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible (same day is ideal).
• Recheck lug nut torque after 25-50 miles using a torque wrench.

---

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$1,800 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $300-$1,000 (parts only)

You Save: $600-$800 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 4-6 hours.

---

🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.