🔧 Malibu - Strut Replacement

On your Malibu, the struts support the vehicle’s weight and control bounce. Replacing worn struts restores ride comfort, braking stability, and tire wear control.

Quick questions (so I aim you correctly): Are you replacing front, rear, or all four struts, and are you installing complete quick-strut assemblies (strut + spring + mount) or bare struts (reuse the spring)?

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours (all four)

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support the car with jack stands on solid, level ground; never rely on a floor jack.
• ⚠️ If you are reusing springs: a coil spring compressor is required; the spring stores dangerous energy.
• ⚠️ Keep hands/face out of the spring’s path while compressing or removing the top nut.
• ⚠️ After strut replacement, a 4-wheel alignment is strongly recommended (front is especially sensitive).
• ⚠️ Do not let the steering knuckle hang by the brake hose/ABS wire; support it.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Breaker bar (1/2" drive)
• Torque wrench (1/2" drive, 20-200 ft-lbs range)
• Torque wrench (3/8" drive, 10-80 ft-lbs range)
• Socket set (8mm-24mm, 3/8" and 1/2" drive)
• Wrench set (8mm-24mm)
• 21mm lug nut socket
• Pry bar (18")
• Hammer (2 lb)
• Punch set (5mm-10mm)
• Penetrating oil
• Paint marker
• Bungee cord
• Coil spring compressor (specialty)
• Pass-through strut nut socket set (specialty)
• Hex key set (metric)

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front strut assembly (quick-strut) - Qty: 2
• Rear strut assembly (quick-strut) - Qty: 2
• Front upper strut mount - Qty: 2 (only if not included)
• Rear upper strut mount - Qty: 2 (only if not included)
• Front strut bearing - Qty: 2 (only if not included)
• Sway bar end link - Qty: 2 (recommended if boots are torn or joints are loose)
• Replacement strut-to-knuckle bolts/nuts - Qty: 4 (recommended if hardware is damaged)

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🅿️ Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
• 🛞 Crack loose the lug nuts with a 21mm lug nut socket before lifting.
• 🧴 Spray penetrating oil on strut-to-knuckle bolts and sway bar link nuts; let it soak 10-15 minutes.
• 🖊️ Mark the strut-to-knuckle bolt positions with a paint marker to help keep alignment close until you get a proper alignment.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and remove the wheel

• Use a floor jack to lift the front (or rear) and set the car securely on jack stands.
• Remove the wheel using a 21mm lug nut socket.

Step 2 (Front): Disconnect brackets and sway bar link

• Unbolt any brake hose/ABS wire brackets from the strut using the appropriate socket set (8mm-15mm).
• Remove the sway bar end link nut at the strut using a wrench set and socket set.
• If the stud spins, hold it with a hex key set (metric) while turning the nut with a wrench.
• Tip: Support the link to prevent binding.

Step 3 (Front): Separate the strut from the steering knuckle

• Support the steering knuckle with a bungee cord so it doesn’t pull on the brake hose.
• Remove the two strut-to-knuckle bolts/nuts using a breaker bar (1/2") and socket set.
• If stuck, tap the bolts out using a hammer (2 lb) and punch set.
• Torque on install (typical): Torque to 140 Nm (103 ft-lbs) (verify with factory service info if available).

Step 4 (Front): Remove the strut from the body

• Open the hood and locate the strut mount nuts at the top of the strut tower.
• Hold the strut so it doesn’t drop, then remove the upper mount nuts using a socket set.
• Remove the strut assembly from the wheel well.
• Torque on install (typical upper mount nuts): Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs) (verify with factory service info if available).

Step 5 (If using bare struts): Swap the spring and mount

• Install a coil spring compressor (specialty) on the spring and compress evenly until the spring is loose in the mount.
• Remove the top center nut using a pass-through strut nut socket set (specialty) and hex key set (metric).
• Transfer the spring, boot/bump stop, and mount to the new strut in the same order.
• Slowly release the compressor, making sure the spring ends sit in their pockets.
• Tip: Compress both sides the same amount.

Step 6 (Front): Install the new strut

• Position the strut into the strut tower and hand-thread the upper mount nuts using a socket set.
• Align the strut to the steering knuckle and install the two lower bolts/nuts using a socket set and breaker bar.
• Reconnect the sway bar end link using a wrench set and socket set.
• Reattach brake hose/ABS brackets using a socket set.
• Tighten fasteners with a torque wrench:
  • Upper mount nuts (typical): Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs)
  • Strut-to-knuckle bolts (typical): Torque to 140 Nm (103 ft-lbs)
  • Sway bar end link nut (typical): Torque to 65 Nm (48 ft-lbs) (verify if available)

Step 7 (Rear): Access the upper rear strut mount

• Open the trunk and pull back the trunk liner near the rear shock/strut tower area.
• Locate the rear upper mount nuts; leave them on a few threads for now using a socket set.

Step 8 (Rear): Remove the lower rear strut bolt

• Support the rear suspension arm/knuckle area with the floor jack to prevent it from dropping.
• Remove the lower strut bolt/nut using a breaker bar (1/2") and socket set.
• Torque on install (common GM spec): Torque to 140 Nm (103 ft-lbs) (verify with factory service info if available).

Step 9 (Rear): Remove and install the rear strut

• Remove the upper mount nuts fully using a socket set, then remove the rear strut assembly.
• Install the new rear strut, hand-start the upper nuts using a socket set, then install the lower bolt/nut using a socket set.
• Tighten with a torque wrench:
  • Upper mount nuts (typical): Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs) (verify if available)
  • Lower bolt (typical): Torque to 140 Nm (103 ft-lbs) (verify if available)
• Reinstall trunk liner.

Step 10: Reinstall wheels and lower the car

• Reinstall the wheels and snug the lug nuts using a 21mm lug nut socket.
• Lower the car off the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench to Torque to 140 Nm (103 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• 🧪 Road test at low speed first; listen for clunks and confirm stable braking.
• 👀 Recheck all visible fasteners and bracket attachments after the test drive.
• 📏 Get a 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible to prevent tire wear.
• 🛞 If the steering wheel is off-center, don’t ignore it—align it.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$1,600 (parts + labor, all four)

DIY Cost: $350-$900 (parts only, depends on quick-struts vs bare struts)

You Save: $550-$700 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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