🔧 Kicks - Engine Mount Replacement

Your Kicks uses multiple mounts to hold the engine/CVT and control vibration. Replacing a worn mount usually fixes clunks on takeoff, excessive vibration at idle, or “thump” when shifting into Drive/Reverse.

Quick check: There’s typically a right-side engine mount (passenger side), a left-side transmission mount (driver side), and a rear torque mount (also called a “dogbone/torque strut,” it limits rocking).

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-5 hours (depends which mount)

---

⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support the engine before unbolting any mount; if it drops, parts can break and hands can get crushed.
• ⚠️ Use jack stands; never work under a vehicle held only by a jack.
• ⚠️ Don’t jack directly on the oil pan. Always use a wood block between the jack and the engine support point.
• ⚠️ Keep fingers clear while aligning the mount; the engine can shift suddenly.
• ⚠️ If you remove the battery/airbox near wiring, disconnect the negative terminal first using a 10mm wrench.

---

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Wood block (2x4 or similar)
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Ratchet (3/8")
• Breaker bar (1/2")
• Socket set 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, 19mm
• Wrench set 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, 19mm
• Extensions (3" and 6")
• Torque wrench (10–200 Nm range)
• Flathead screwdriver
• Trim clip removal tool
• Pry bar
• Paint marker
• Engine support bar (specialty)

---

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Right-side engine mount - Qty: 1
• Left-side transmission mount - Qty: 1
• Rear torque mount (torque strut/dogbone) - Qty: 1
• Engine/trans mount fastener kit - Qty: 1

---

📋 Before You Begin

• Park your Kicks on level ground, shift to Park, and chock the rear wheels.
• If you’ll remove the battery or battery tray: disconnect the negative cable using a 10mm wrench.
• Plan how you’ll support the engine: either from below with a floor jack + wood block, or from above with an engine support bar (specialty) (this is a bar that spans the strut towers and holds the engine by a hook/chain).
• Follow-up (so I give you the exact mount order): Which mount are you replacing—right engine, left transmission, or rear torque mount?
• Second quick question: Are you doing just one mount or all mounts?

---

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Confirm the bad mount (quick check)

• Open the hood and have a helper hold the brake firmly.
• Watch the engine while the helper shifts Park → Reverse → Drive (do not rev).
• If the engine jumps/clunks, a mount or torque strut is likely worn.

Step 2: Support the engine safely

• Place the floor jack under a strong engine support point and put the wood block between the jack and metal.
• Raise the jack until it just starts to hold the engine weight (do not lift the car).
• Small lifts align bolts easier.

Step 3: Gain access (varies by mount)

• For the right-side engine mount: remove the intake duct/airbox as needed using a flathead screwdriver and 10mm socket.
• For the left-side transmission mount: you may need to remove the battery and battery tray using a 10mm socket, 12mm socket, and trim clip removal tool.
• For the rear torque mount: raise the front and support with jack stands; remove any lower splash shield clips/bolts using a 10mm socket and trim clip removal tool.

Step 4: Remove the mount fasteners (one mount at a time)

• Use a paint marker to mark the mount position if there are slotted holes.
• Loosen and remove the mount-to-body bolts/nuts using a ratchet with the correct socket (often 14mm–19mm).
• Loosen and remove the mount-to-engine/CVT bolts using a breaker bar and correct socket (often 14mm–19mm).
• If bolts bind, slightly raise/lower the engine with the floor jack to unload the mount.

Step 5: Remove the mount and compare parts

• Wiggle the mount out by hand; use a pry bar gently if needed.
• Compare the old vs new mount: bolt hole positions, bracket shape, and bushing orientation.

Step 6: Install the new mount (start bolts by hand)

• Set the new mount in place by hand.
• Start all bolts/nuts by hand first to prevent cross-threading.
• Use the floor jack to fine-adjust engine height until bolts thread in smoothly.

Step 7: Tighten in the correct order

• Snug the mount-to-engine/CVT fasteners first using a ratchet.
• Snug the mount-to-body fasteners next using a ratchet.
• Final tighten using a torque wrench: Torque to Nissan factory specification for your Kicks mount fasteners.
• Exact torque depends on which mount.

Step 8: Reassemble removed components

• Reinstall battery tray/battery (if removed) using a 10mm socket and 12mm socket.
• Reconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm wrench.
• Reinstall airbox/intake duct clamps using a flathead screwdriver and 10mm socket.
• Reinstall splash shield/clips using a 10mm socket and trim clip removal tool.

Step 9: Remove engine support

• Lower the floor jack slowly and remove the wood block.
• Double-check that no tools are left in the engine bay.

---

✅ After Repair

• Start your Kicks and let it idle; check for abnormal vibration or new noises.
• With the brake held, shift Park → Reverse → Drive again and watch for excessive engine movement.
• Test drive: gentle acceleration, then a few normal stops/starts; listen for clunks.
• Recheck mount fasteners for tightness after a short drive (only when cool).

---

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: ₹8,000-₹22,000 (parts + labor, depending on mount count)

DIY Cost: ₹2,500-₹12,000 (parts only, depending on mount count)

You Save: ₹5,500-₹10,000+ by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run ₹1,000-₹2,500/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-4 hours.

---

🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.