🔧 Kona - Engine Mount Replacement

On your Kona, there isn’t just one “engine mount”—there are multiple mounts (engine-side, transmission-side, and torque/roll mounts). The exact steps and especially the torque specs change depending on which mount(s) you’re replacing, so I want to make sure you do the safe, correct one.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 1.5-4.0 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Never get under a vehicle supported only by a jack; use jack stands.
• ⚠️ Do not lift the engine by the oil pan without a wood block; direct jack contact can crack the pan.
• ⚠️ Support the engine before removing any mount bolts; the engine can shift suddenly.
• ⚠️ Keep hands clear between the mount and bracket while aligning.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• Torque wrench (10–200 Nm range)
• Socket set (10mm–19mm)
• Deep socket set (10mm–19mm)
• Wrench set (10mm–19mm)
• Trim clip remover
• Flathead screwdriver
• Pry bar
• Wood block (2x6 in. or similar)
• Work light
• Mechanic gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Engine mount - Qty: 1
• Transmission mount - Qty: 1
• Rear torque mount - Qty: 1
• Front torque mount - Qty: 1
• Engine mount bolts (single-use if required) - Qty: 1 set
• Transmission mount bolts (single-use if required) - Qty: 1 set
• Torque mount bolts (single-use if required) - Qty: 1 set

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
• Use wheel chocks on the rear wheels.
• Plan to support the engine with a floor jack and a wood block before any mount bolts come out.
• Quick check: Which mount(s) are you replacing—right-side engine mount, left-side transmission mount, rear torque mount, or front torque mount?
• Quick check: Are you doing this on jack stands in your driveway/garage, or do you have access to a lift?

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Confirm which mount(s) you’re replacing

• I need the mount location(s) to give you the correct removal path and Torque to XX Nm (YY ft-lbs) specs for each fastener (they differ by mount).
• Reply with: Right engine mount, Left transmission mount, Rear torque mount, Front torque mount, or All.

Step 2: I’ll send the exact procedure + torque specs for your selection

• Once you confirm the mount(s), I’ll lay out the exact bolt locations, access panels to remove, and the correct support points for the engine.
• Doing the wrong mount order can crack brackets.

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✅ After Repair

• Verify the engine sits level and no hoses/wiring are stretched.
• Start the engine and check for excessive vibration at idle.
• Test drive and recheck for clunks on accel/decel transitions.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$1,400 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $80-$600 (parts only)

You Save: $370-$800 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-4.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.