🔧 Optima - Engine Mount Replacement

Your Optima uses several mounts to hold the engine/transmission in place and control vibration. Replacing worn mounts reduces shaking at idle, clunks on takeoff, and drivetrain movement under acceleration.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support the engine before unbolting any mount; an unsupported engine can drop and damage wiring, hoses, or the hybrid components.
• ⚠️ Hybrid safety: do not touch any orange high-voltage cables or connectors.
• ⚠️ Work on a flat surface and support the car with jack stands (never the jack alone).
• ⚠️ Let the engine cool; mounts sit near hot exhaust parts.
• ⚠️ Disconnect the 12V battery negative cable before starting to prevent accidental starts.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Wheel chocks
• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wood block 2x6 in.
• Socket set 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, 19mm
• Ratchet 3/8 in.
• Breaker bar 1/2 in.
• Extensions 3 in. and 6 in.
• Torque wrench 10–200 Nm (7–150 ft-lbs)
• Flat trim tool
• Pry bar 12–18 in.
• Work light

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Right (passenger-side) engine mount - Qty: 1
• Left (driver-side) transmission mount - Qty: 1
• Rear lower torque mount (roll stopper) - Qty: 1
• Front lower torque mount (roll stopper) - Qty: 1
• Engine mount hardware kit - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to P, and set the parking brake.
• Chock the rear wheels using wheel chocks.
• Disconnect the 12V battery negative cable using a 10mm socket.
• Lift the front and set it securely on jack stands using a floor jack.
• Set up an engine support: place a wood block on the floor jack and gently support the oil pan. The wood spreads the load so you don’t dent the pan.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the lower splash shield (undertray)

• Use a flat trim tool to pop out the plastic clips (if equipped).
• Use a 10mm socket to remove the bolts and lower the shield.

Step 2: Support the engine safely

• Position the floor jack with the wood block under the oil pan.
• Pump the jack just until the wood block contacts the pan and takes light weight off the mounts.
• Lift only enough to unload the mount.

Step 3: Replace the right (passenger-side) engine mount

• From the top/right side, remove any small brackets/air ducting that blocks access using a 10mm socket and 12mm socket.
• Use a 14mm socket and 17mm socket to remove the mount-to-body bolts and the mount-to-bracket fasteners.
• If bolts are tight, use a breaker bar 1/2 in. with the correct socket.
• Lift or lower the engine slightly using the floor jack to slide the mount out without forcing it.
• Install the new mount and start all fasteners by hand.
• Tighten fasteners with a torque wrench:
  • Mount-to-body bolts: Torque to 70 Nm (52 ft-lbs)
  • Mount-to-bracket nuts/bolts: Torque to 90 Nm (66 ft-lbs)

Step 4: Replace the left (driver-side) transmission mount

• Keep the engine supported with the floor jack and wood block.
• Access the mount on the driver-side upper area; remove any blocking brackets using a 12mm socket and 14mm socket.
• Use a 14mm socket and 17mm socket to remove mount fasteners.
• Adjust engine height slightly with the floor jack so the mount comes out straight.
• Install the new mount and hand-start all bolts.
• Torque fasteners with a torque wrench:
  • Mount-to-body bolts: Torque to 70 Nm (52 ft-lbs)
  • Mount-to-transmission/bracket bolts: Torque to 90 Nm (66 ft-lbs)

Step 5: Replace the rear lower torque mount (rear roll stopper)

• From underneath, locate the rear torque mount (it controls engine rocking).
• Use a 17mm socket to remove the mount bolts.
• If needed, use a pry bar 12–18 in. to gently line up the holes. A pry bar is a strong lever used to shift parts slightly for alignment.
• Install the new rear torque mount.
• Torque the bolts with a torque wrench: Torque to 110 Nm (81 ft-lbs)

Step 6: Replace the front lower torque mount (front roll stopper)

• From underneath, locate the front torque mount near the subframe.
• Use a 17mm socket (and breaker bar 1/2 in. if needed) to remove the bolts.
• Install the new front torque mount and hand-start bolts.
• Torque the bolts with a torque wrench: Torque to 110 Nm (81 ft-lbs)

Step 7: Reinstall the undertray and lower the vehicle

• Reinstall the splash shield using a 10mm socket and the clips with a flat trim tool.
• Slowly lower the engine support jack.
• Lower the car from the jack stands using the floor jack.

Step 8: Reconnect the 12V battery

• Reconnect the negative terminal using a 10mm socket.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the car and let it idle; expect a brief change in feel while the mounts settle.
• With your foot on the brake, shift P → R → D and listen for clunks.
• Test drive and check for vibration under light acceleration and at idle.
• Recheck visible mount fasteners for tightness after 1–2 days of driving.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $700-$1,400 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $180-$650 (parts only)

You Save: $520-$750 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-6 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.