🔧 Corolla - Engine Mount Replacement

On your Corolla, the “engine mounts” are multiple mounts that hold the engine/transmission in place and control vibration. Replacing them usually requires safely supporting the engine with a jack, unbolting one mount at a time, and re-aligning everything so bolts thread in smoothly.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-5 hours (one mount: ~1-2 hours)

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support the car on jack stands on level ground; never rely on a jack alone.
• ⚠️ Support the engine with a floor jack + wood block under the oil pan (wood spreads the load so you don’t dent the pan).
• ⚠️ Keep hands clear when lifting/settling the engine; mounts can “shift” suddenly.
• ⚠️ If working near the starter/positive cable area, disconnect the battery: negative (-) terminal first.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Wood block (2x4 or similar)
• Metric socket set 10mm-19mm
• Metric wrench set 10mm-19mm
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• Socket extensions 3" and 6"
• Torque wrench (10-150 ft-lbs range)
• Flat pry bar
• Trim clip remover
• Phillips screwdriver
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Right (passenger-side) engine mount - Qty: 1
• Left (driver-side) transmission mount - Qty: 1
• Front torque strut mount - Qty: 1
• Rear torque strut mount - Qty: 1
• Replacement mount bolts/nuts (if rusted or damaged) - Qty: As needed

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels using wheel chocks.
• Open the hood and remove any loose items.
• If you’ll be working near the battery/starter wiring, use a 10mm socket to disconnect the negative (-) battery terminal.
• Plan to replace one mount at a time so the engine stays aligned.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Safely raise and support the front of the car

• Use a floor jack at the front center jacking point to lift the car.
• Set the car onto jack stands at the proper pinch weld/support points.
• If you remove a front wheel for access, use a 21mm socket to remove lug nuts and later Torque to 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs).

Step 2: Support the engine (critical)

• Place a wood block on the floor jack.
• Gently jack up under the oil pan just until the wood contacts firmly and the engine’s weight is supported.
• Lift only enough to take weight off mounts.

Step 3: Choose the mount you’re replacing first

• Right (passenger-side) engine mount: upper mount near the coolant reservoir/headlight area.
• Left (driver-side) transmission mount: upper mount under/near the battery tray area.
• Front & rear torque strut mounts: lower “dogbone” style mounts that control engine rocking (usually accessed from below).
• Use a flat pry bar only gently to check for torn rubber or excessive movement.

Step 4: Remove the mount fasteners (one mount at a time)

• Use the appropriate metric sockets (typically 14mm, 17mm, 19mm) with a ratchet or breaker bar to loosen mount nuts/bolts.
• If a bolt binds, slightly raise/lower the engine using the floor jack to remove pressure from that bolt, then try again.
• For plastic covers/splash shields, remove clips with a trim clip remover and screws with a Phillips screwdriver.

Step 5: Remove the mount and compare parts

• Remove the mount from the car once all its fasteners are out (use a flat pry bar if it’s stuck in place).
• Compare the new mount to the old one: same shape, bolt holes, and orientation.
• Do not force the new mount into place; re-position the engine with the floor jack until it drops in smoothly.

Step 6: Install the new mount (start all bolts by hand)

• Position the new mount and start every bolt/nut by hand first (use your fingers, then a ratchet).
• Tighten fasteners gradually, alternating between them so the mount seats evenly.
• Finish tightening with a torque wrench: Torque all mount fasteners to Toyota factory specification for your exact mount location.
• Hand-starting prevents cross-threading.

Step 7: Repeat for remaining mounts (if replacing more than one)

• Keep the engine supported with the floor jack and wood block.
• Replace the next mount using Steps 4–6.
• Never remove multiple upper mounts at the same time.

Step 8: Reassemble and lower the car

• Reinstall splash shields and clips using a trim clip remover and Phillips screwdriver as needed.
• Reinstall any wheel(s) using a 21mm socket, then Torque to 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs).
• Lower the car using the floor jack and remove jack stands.
• If disconnected, reconnect the battery using a 10mm socket (negative terminal last tightened securely).

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and let it idle. Listen for clunks and watch for excessive engine movement.
• With your foot on the brake, shift through gears (automatic) or lightly load the engine (manual) and check for abnormal vibration.
• Take a short test drive. Re-check that all fasteners you touched are tight and nothing is rubbing.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $350-$1,100 (parts + labor, depending on how many mounts)

DIY Cost: $80-$450 (parts only, depending on how many mounts)

You Save: $270-$650 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.

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Two quick questions so I can give you the exact mount order + exact torque specs for your Corolla:

• 🧰 Is your Corolla an automatic or manual?
• 🔩 Are you replacing all mounts, or which one is bad (right/passenger, left/driver, front lower, rear lower)?