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2021 Kia Telluride
2021 Kia Telluride
S - V6 3.8L
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How to Replace Engine Mounts on a 2021 Kia Telluride (Right, Left & Rear Torque Mount)

Step-by-step DIY instructions with required tools/parts, engine support safety tips, and torque spec guidance

How to Replace Engine Mounts on a 2021 Kia Telluride (Right, Left & Rear Torque Mount)

Step-by-step DIY instructions with required tools/parts, engine support safety tips, and torque spec guidance

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🔧 Telluride - Engine Mount Replacement

On your Telluride, “engine mounts” can mean the right (passenger-side) engine mount, the left (driver-side) transmission mount, and/or the rear torque mount (also called a “roll stopper,” which limits engine twist). The steps and access are different for each one, so I need one quick detail to give you the exact OEM-correct procedure.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 2-6 hours

Quick questions (reply with just the answers):
1) Which mount(s) are you replacing: right engine, left transmission, rear torque, or all?
2) Is your Telluride FWD or AWD (look at your rear badge or tell me if it has a rear driveshaft)?


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Never get under the vehicle supported only by a jack; use jack stands.
  • ⚠️ You must support the engine before removing any mount; otherwise the engine can drop and damage wiring, hoses, or the radiator.
  • ⚠️ Keep hands clear of pinch points while raising/lowering the engine support.
  • ⚠️ Let the exhaust cool fully before working near mounts/subframe areas.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks
  • Safety glasses
  • Mechanic gloves
  • 3/8" drive ratchet
  • 1/2" drive breaker bar
  • Torque wrench (10–200 ft-lbs range)
  • Socket set (10mm–22mm)
  • Deep socket set (10mm–22mm)
  • Wrench set (10mm–22mm)
  • Trim clip remover
  • Flathead screwdriver
  • Engine support bar (specialty)
  • Floor jack rubber pad
  • Wood block (2x4)
  • Penetrating oil
  • Paint marker

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Right engine mount - Qty: 1
  • Left transmission mount - Qty: 1
  • Rear torque mount (roll stopper) - Qty: 1
  • Engine mount hardware kit (one-time-use bolts, if equipped) - Qty: 1

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park on level ground, shift to P, and set the parking brake.
  • Chock the rear wheels with wheel chocks.
  • Open the hood and remove any plastic engine cover by hand if equipped.
  • Plan your engine support method: an engine support bar holds the engine from above (safer for mounts). A floor jack with a wood block can support from below, but you must not crush the oil pan.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Confirm the mount location and access path

  • Reply with which mount(s) you’re doing and whether it’s FWD or AWD.
  • Use a flashlight (if you have one) and visually locate the mount(s) so we match the correct steps.
  • Each mount has different bolt sizes/torques.

Step 2: Safely raise and support the vehicle (if underside access is needed)

  • Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift at the front center jacking point.
  • Place jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) at the proper front support points and lower the vehicle onto them.
  • Shake the vehicle lightly to confirm it’s stable.

Step 3: Support the engine before loosening any mount

  • Preferred: Install an engine support bar (specialty) across the strut towers and tension it to just take engine weight.
  • Alternate: Use a floor jack rubber pad plus a wood block (2x4) to gently support the engine from below.
  • Lift only enough to remove mount load.

Step 4: Remove the mount (procedure depends on which mount)

  • Once you answer the 2 questions above, I’ll give the exact Telluride-specific removal order, what needs to come off for access, and the correct Torque to XX Nm (YY ft-lbs) values for each bolt.

✅ After Repair

  • Double-check all mount fasteners are fully seated and torqued (I’ll provide the exact torque specs once mount selection is confirmed).
  • Start the engine and watch for excessive engine movement while shifting from P → R → D with your foot on the brake.
  • Test drive and listen for clunks on acceleration/braking.
  • Recheck for any loose fasteners after the test drive.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $600-$1,600 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $150-$600 (parts only)

You Save: $450-$1,000 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-6 hours.


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