How to Replace Engine Mounts on a 2019 Volkswagen Jetta (Upper & Dogbone Mounts)
Step-by-step instructions with required tools, one-time-use bolt tips, safety precautions, and torque spec guidance
How to Replace Engine Mounts on a 2019 Volkswagen Jetta (Upper & Dogbone Mounts)
Step-by-step instructions with required tools, one-time-use bolt tips, safety precautions, and torque spec guidance


š§ Jetta - Engine Mount Replacement
On your Jetta, there are multiple āengine mountsā that control engine movement: the right (passenger-side) upper engine mount, the left upper transmission mount, and the lower āpendulum/dogboneā mount. The exact steps and torque specs depend on which mount youāre replacing, because VW uses different one-time-use bolts in each location.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-4.0 hours (varies by mount)
ā ļø Safety & Precautions
- ā ļø Never get under the car supported only by a jack; use jack stands.
- ā ļø You must support the engine/transmission before loosening any upper mount bolts, or the drivetrain can drop/shift.
- ā ļø Keep hands clear of pinch points while raising/lowering the engine with a jack.
- ā ļø Let the engine cool; turbo/heat shields can burn you.
- ā ļø Battery disconnect is not usually required, but disconnect if youāll be near the starter/large power cables.
š§ Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (pair, rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Safety glasses
- Mechanic gloves
- Torque wrench (10ā200 Nm range)
- Socket set (8mmā21mm)
- Ratchet (3/8" drive)
- Breaker bar (1/2" drive)
- Triple-square bit set (XZN) (common VW fastener)
- Torx bit set (T25āT45)
- Extensions (3" and 6")
- Trim clip removal tool
- Pry bar (12")
- Engine support bar (specialty)
- Rubber/wood jack pad block
- Work light
š© Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Right upper engine mount - Qty: 1 (if replacing right mount)
- Left upper transmission mount - Qty: 1 (if replacing left mount)
- Lower pendulum/dogbone mount - Qty: 1 (if replacing lower mount)
- Engine mount bolt kit (single-use stretch bolts) - Qty: 1
- Subframe/bracket bolts (single-use, if removed) - Qty: 1
š Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
- Plan how you will support the drivetrain: an engine support bar holds the engine from above (it spans the fenders), while a floor jack + wood block supports from below at the oil pan/trans case gently.
- Please answer these 2 quick questions so I can give the exact location steps and correct torque specs (VW is very specific):
- Which mount are you replacing: right upper, left upper (trans mount), or lower dogbone?
- Are you replacing one mount or all mounts?
šØ Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Confirm mount location (so bolts/torque match)
- Reply with: right upper, left upper, or lower dogbone (or āall threeā).
- VW commonly uses single-use stretch bolts here (bolts that are designed to be tightened once and replaced), so Iāll list the exact bolts to replace once you confirm the mount.
Step 2: Set up safe support
- Use floor jack and jack stands to safely raise and support the front of the car if youāre doing the lower dogbone mount.
- If doing an upper mount, install the engine support bar (specialty) above the engine and apply light tension to hold the engine.
- If you donāt have a support bar, you can use a floor jack with a wood block to gently support the drivetrain from below. Lift only enough to hold weight.
Step 3: Stop before loosening mount bolts
- Do not loosen any mount-to-body or mount-to-engine bolts until I provide the correct bolt list and torque sequence for the mount youāre doing.
- Once you answer the two questions above, Iāll give you the complete procedure with Torque to XX Nm (YY ft-lbs) values for every fastener involved.
ā After Repair
- Start the engine and let it idle; listen for knocking/clunking and watch for excessive engine movement.
- Shift through P-R-N-D with your foot on the brake; confirm thereās no harsh clunk.
- Test drive and re-check for any new vibration at idle or on acceleration.
- If any subframe bolts were loosened, you may need an alignment check.
š° DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $450-$1,200 (parts + labor, depends on which mount)
DIY Cost: $120-$450 (parts only, depends on mount + bolt kits)
You Save: $330-$750 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-4.0 hours.
šÆ Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.

















