How to Replace Engine Mounts on a 2019 Hyundai Santa Fe XL (All Mount Locations)
Step-by-step instructions, required tools/parts, safety tips, and mount-location guidance to fix vibration or clunks
How to Replace Engine Mounts on a 2019 Hyundai Santa Fe XL (All Mount Locations)
Step-by-step instructions, required tools/parts, safety tips, and mount-location guidance to fix vibration or clunks


đź”§ Santa Fe XL - Engine Mount Replacement
Engine mounts hold the engine/transmission in place and absorb vibration. Replacing the wrong mount (there are multiple) can waste time and money, and the bolt locations/torque specs differ by mount position.
Before I give you the exact step-by-step with correct torque specs: Which mount(s) are you replacing on your Santa Fe XL—right/passenger-side engine mount, left/driver-side transmission mount, rear roll stopper, and/or front roll stopper? Also, what symptom are you fixing—vibration at idle, clunk on takeoff/shift, or a visibly torn/leaking mount?
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-5.0 hours (depends on which mount)
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- 🛑 Never get under the vehicle supported only by a jack; use jack stands.
- 🧤 Support the engine before unbolting any mount; the engine can drop and damage parts.
- 🔥 Work on a cool engine; the exhaust and radiator area can burn you.
- ⚡ Keep hands/tools away from the radiator fans; they can turn on unexpectedly.
- 🔋 Battery disconnect is not usually required, but disconnect if you’ll be near the starter/positive cable.
đź”§ Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Safety glasses
- Mechanic gloves
- Torque wrench (20–200 ft-lbs range)
- 3/8" drive ratchet
- 1/2" drive ratchet
- 3/8" drive socket set (10mm–19mm)
- 1/2" drive socket set (14mm–22mm)
- Wobble extension set (3/8")
- Extension set (3/8" and 1/2")
- Breaker bar (1/2")
- Pry bar (24")
- Trim clip tool
- Flathead screwdriver
- Engine support bar (specialty)
- Wood block (2x6, 12–18")
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Right/passenger-side engine mount - Qty: 1
- Left/driver-side transmission mount - Qty: 1
- Rear roll stopper mount - Qty: 1
- Front roll stopper mount - Qty: 1
- Engine mount bracket bolts/nuts (recommended if one-time-use) - Qty: 1 set
đź“‹ Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, shift to P, set the parking brake, and use wheel chocks.
- Plan how you’ll support the engine:
- Engine support bar spans the fenders and holds the engine from above.
- Or support from below with a floor jack and a wood block under the oil pan (the wood spreads the load so you don’t dent the pan).
- If you’ll be removing the splash shield, raise the front and support with jack stands.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Confirm which mount you’re replacing
- Reply with the mount location(s): right/passenger, left/driver, rear, front.
- Once you confirm, I’ll give you the exact removal order, access panels to remove, and Torque to XX Nm (YY ft-lbs) specs for that mount on your Santa Fe XL.
Step 2: Basic inspection (so you don’t replace the wrong one)
- Open the hood and have a helper hold the brake firmly with the engine running.
- Watch engine movement while the helper shifts P → R → D (do not rev it).
- If the engine rocks hard or you hear a clunk, a roll-stopper mount is likely worn. Keep fingers clear of moving parts.
Step 3: Safely support the engine (required for any mount)
- Raise the front with a floor jack and set on jack stands.
- Place a wood block (2x6) on the floor jack pad.
- Gently lift under the oil pan area just until the weight is supported (do not lift the vehicle off the stands).
Step 4: Stop here until you confirm the mount location
- Different mounts require removing different brackets/covers, and bolt torque is different per location.
- Reply with which mount(s) you’re doing and I’ll continue with the exact step list for that mount on your Santa Fe XL.
âś… After Repair
- Recheck all fasteners with a torque wrench after the engine is fully resting on the mounts.
- Start the engine and confirm there’s no abnormal vibration or knocking.
- Road test and listen for clunks on takeoff and during 1–2 shifts.
đź’° DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $450-$1,400 (parts + labor, depends on which mount[s])
DIY Cost: $90-$600 (parts only, depends on which mount[s])
You Save: $300-$900 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-5.0 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.

















