🔧 Traverse - Engine Mount Replacement

Engine mounts hold your engine/transmission steady and absorb vibration. Replacing the correct mount(s) restores smooth idle and prevents clunks when shifting or accelerating.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Never support the engine by the oil pan without a wood block; the pan can crack.
• ⚠️ Use jack stands on the frame; never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack.
• ⚠️ Keep hands clear when lifting/lowering the powertrain; it can shift suddenly.
• ⚠️ Let the exhaust and engine cool before working nearby.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Socket set 8mm-21mm
• Ratchet 3/8" drive
• Ratchet 1/2" drive
• Extensions 3", 6", 12"
• Universal joint adapter 3/8"
• Torque wrench 10-150 ft-lbs
• Pry bar 18"
• Trim/panel tool
• Wood block 2x6" x 12"
• Paint marker
• Flashlight

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Engine mount - Qty: 1
• New engine mount bolts (if required) - Qty: 1 set

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
• Chock the rear wheels using wheel chocks.
• Open the hood and remove any engine cover if equipped (pull up gently by hand).
• Plan to support the engine: set up a floor jack with a wood block ready. The wood spreads the load.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Confirm which mount you’re replacing

• Before I give you the exact steps and bolt torques, I need one detail because your Traverse can have multiple mounts (engine-side and transmission-side) with different access points and torque specs.
• Reply with: Front (radiator side), Rear (firewall side), Right (passenger/engine side), Left (driver/transmission side), or All mounts.

Step 2: Quick check so you don’t replace the wrong part

• With the hood open, have a helper hold the brake firmly and shift P → R → D (do not rev it). Watch the engine movement.
• If the engine lifts hard on one side or you hear a thunk, that side’s mount is often the culprit.
• Use a flashlight to look for torn rubber, leaking fluid (some mounts are hydraulic), or metal-to-metal contact.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and let it idle; listen for knocking and feel for excessive vibration.
• Do the same shift test: P → R → D with the brake held and confirm the engine movement is reduced.
• Test drive at low speed and recheck for clunks on acceleration/deceleration.
• Recheck mount fasteners after the test drive using a torque wrench. Loose bolts cause repeat clunks.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$1,200 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $80-$350 (parts only)

You Save: $370-$850 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.