🔧 Tundra - Engine Mount Replacement

Replacing the engine mounts on your Tundra requires supporting the engine, removing the mount fasteners, and lifting the engine slightly to swap the mounts. The key is doing it safely so the engine doesn’t shift, and making sure every fastener is tightened to the correct Toyota torque spec.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 4-8 hours

---

⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support the engine before loosening any mount fasteners.
• ⚠️ Never work under a truck supported only by a jack; use jack stands.
• ⚠️ Lift the engine only a little at a time; watch the fan-to-shroud gap, radiator hoses, and wiring.
• ⚠️ Keep hands clear between the mount and frame while raising/lowering.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is recommended if you’ll be near the starter/positive cable: remove negative cable first.

---

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Metric socket set 10mm-22mm
• 3/8" ratchet
• 1/2" breaker bar
• Socket extensions (3", 6", 12")
• Universal joint adapter
• Metric combination wrench set 10mm-22mm
• Torque wrench (20-200 ft-lbs range)
• Pry bar
• Trim clip removal tool
• Engine support bar (specialty)
• Wood block (2"x6")
• Penetrating oil

---

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Left engine mount - Qty: 1
• Right engine mount - Qty: 1
• Engine mount mounting hardware kit - Qty: 1

---

📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
• Raise the front and support the frame with jack stands.
• If equipped, remove the front skid plate(s) using your metric socket set.
• Plan your engine support method: an engine support bar (specialty) is safest; it holds the engine from above so you’re not balancing it on a jack.

---

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Confirm the exact mounts and get torque specs

• Are you replacing both engine mounts (left and right), or just one side?
• Do you want the steps for engine mounts only, or engine mounts + transmission mount?
• To give you factory-accurate tightening values, please upload a photo/screenshot of the OEM torque table for “Engine Mounting” (or tell me what fasteners/locations it lists). I won’t guess torque specs on mounts.

Step 2: Support the engine

• Position the engine support bar (specialty) across the fenders and attach it to approved lift points, then take up the slack until the engine weight is just supported.
• If you don’t have a support bar: place a floor jack under the oil pan with a wood block (2"x6") to spread the load. Do not jack on bare aluminum.

Step 3: Create access

• Remove any skid plate(s) using the metric socket set 10mm-22mm and 3/8" ratchet.
• Spray visible mount nuts/bolts with penetrating oil and let it soak.

Step 4: Loosen (do not remove) the mount-to-frame fasteners

• Use the metric socket set 10mm-22mm, extensions, and breaker bar to crack loose the mount-to-frame nuts/bolts on both sides.
• Leave a few threads engaged so the engine can’t shift unexpectedly.

Step 5: Remove the mount through-bolt(s)

• Use the metric socket set 10mm-22mm and metric combination wrench set 10mm-22mm to remove the main mount through-bolt for the side you’re replacing.
• If the bolt is tight to remove, use a pry bar to slightly align the mount holes while you pull the bolt out.

Step 6: Lift the engine slightly to unload the mount

• Use the engine support bar (specialty) adjuster (or floor jack very slowly) to raise the engine just enough to free the mount.
• Watch the fan, shroud, and hoses while lifting. Stop if anything binds.

Step 7: Remove and replace the mount

• Remove the mount from the frame bracket using the metric socket set 10mm-22mm and extensions.
• Install the new mount in the same orientation by hand-starting all fasteners first.

Step 8: Lower engine, install through-bolt, then torque

• Lower the engine slowly with the engine support bar (specialty) (or floor jack) until the mount holes line up.
• Install the through-bolt using the metric socket set 10mm-22mm and metric combination wrench set 10mm-22mm.
• Tighten all mount fasteners with the torque wrench (20-200 ft-lbs range) to the OEM torque values you provide: Torque to ___ Nm (___ ft-lbs).

Step 9: Reinstall skid plates and final check

• Reinstall skid plate(s) using the metric socket set 10mm-22mm.
• Double-check that no tools are left in the engine bay and that wiring/hoses aren’t stretched.

---

✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and let it idle while you watch for excessive movement or knocking.
• Shift from Park to Reverse to Drive with your foot on the brake and listen for clunks.
• Test drive and recheck mount fasteners afterward.

---

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$1,800 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $200-$600 (parts only)

You Save: $700-$1,200 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 4-8 hours.

---

🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.