🔧 Legacy - Engine Mount Replacement

Your Legacy uses multiple “mounts” to hold the engine steady and absorb vibration. The exact steps (and the required torque specs) depend on which mount(s) you’re replacing: the two lower side engine mounts, the upper pitch-stop mount, or a combination.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Never get under the car supported only by a jack; use jack stands.
• 🛑 The engine must be supported before loosening mount fasteners; sudden shifting can pinch hands or damage hoses.
• 🛑 Keep the jack pad on a wood block under the oil pan; metal-on-pan can crack it.
• 🛑 Work on a cool engine; the exhaust and radiator fans can burn you.
• 🛑 Battery disconnect is not usually required, but disconnect the negative terminal if your tools may contact the starter/alternator area.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• Socket set 10mm-19mm
• Wrench set 10mm-19mm
• Torque wrench (10-150 ft-lbs range)
• Extensions (3" and 6")
• Pry bar 18"
• Wood block 2x6 (about 12" long)
• Trim clip remover
• Flathead screwdriver
• Work light

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Left engine mount - Qty: 1
• Right engine mount - Qty: 1
• Engine mount hardware kit - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Open the hood and locate the engine’s upper hoses/wiring; you’re going to lift the engine slightly, so make sure nothing is tight.
• Raise the front and support the car on jack stands at proper lift points.
• Quick questions (answer these and I’ll tailor the exact steps + torque specs):
  • Which mounts are you replacing: both lower side mounts, the upper pitch-stop mount, or all of them?
  • Are you working with the plastic undertray still installed, or is it already removed?

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the lower splash shield (undertray)

• Use a trim clip remover and flathead screwdriver to remove the plastic clips.
• Use a 10mm socket to remove any undertray bolts.
• Set the undertray aside so you can see the front crossmember and mounts.

Step 2: Support the engine

• Place the wood block 2x6 on the pad of the floor jack.
• Carefully position it under the oil pan and raise the jack until it just contacts and supports the engine.
• Lift only enough to unload the mounts.

Step 3: Locate both lower side engine mounts

• Use a work light to find the mount on each side where the engine meets the front crossmember.
• Check for access: you’ll typically have a mount-to-crossmember fastener and mount-to-engine bracket fasteners.

Step 4: Loosen (do not remove) mount fasteners first

• Use a breaker bar with the correct socket (14mm-17mm range) to crack the fasteners loose.
• Do this on both mounts before fully removing any one mount.
• This helps prevent engine shifting.

Step 5: Remove the first engine mount

• Use the appropriate socket and ratchet to remove the mount fasteners.
• Use the floor jack to raise or lower the engine slightly until the mount slides out without forcing it.
• If needed, use an 18" pry bar gently to line up the mount studs/holes.
• Torque to OEM spec (I’ll provide exact numbers after your answers above).

Step 6: Install the new mount and start all fasteners by hand

• Position the new mount by hand.
• Thread fasteners in by hand first (no power tools) to prevent cross-threading.
• Use a ratchet to snug fasteners, but do not final-torque yet.

Step 7: Repeat for the other side mount

• Repeat the removal and installation using the same sockets, ratchet, and the floor jack to control engine height.
• Torque to OEM spec (I’ll provide exact numbers after your answers above).

Step 8: Final torque with the engine settled

• Slowly lower the floor jack so the engine weight sits naturally on the new mounts.
• Use a torque wrench to final-torque all mount fasteners.
• Torque to OEM spec (I’ll provide exact numbers after your answers above).

Step 9: Reinstall the undertray

• Reinstall using the 10mm socket, trim clip remover, and any removed clips/bolts.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and let it idle; listen for new knocking or vibration.
• Shift through P-R-N-D with your foot on the brake; watch for excessive engine movement.
• Test drive and recheck for any loose fasteners or undertray rubbing.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $600-$1,200 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $180-$450 (parts only)

You Save: $420-$750 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-4 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.