How to Replace Engine Mounts on a 2018 Subaru Impreza (Left, Right, Pitch Stopper)
Step-by-step DIY instructions with required tools, parts list, safety tips, and mount-specific torque specs
How to Replace Engine Mounts on a 2018 Subaru Impreza (Left, Right, Pitch Stopper)
Step-by-step DIY instructions with required tools, parts list, safety tips, and mount-specific torque specs
🔧 Impreza - Engine Mount Replacement
On your Impreza, “engine mounts” can mean the left mount, right mount, the rear “pitch stopper” (the small dogbone mount), and sometimes the transmission mount. The correct steps and torque specs change depending on which one(s) you’re replacing.
Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 2-6 hours
Two quick questions so I can give the exact OEM-correct steps + torque specs:
- 🧩 Which mount(s) are you replacing: left, right, pitch stopper, and/or transmission mount?
- 🔍 What’s the main symptom: clunk on takeoff, vibration at idle, or thump on shifts?
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Support the engine before unbolting any engine mount.
- 🔥 Work on a cold engine; exhaust parts can burn you.
- 🧱 Use jack stands on solid ground; never rely on a floor jack alone.
- 🔋 Battery disconnect is usually not required, but keep tools away from the positive terminal.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Safety glasses
- Mechanic gloves
- Wheel chocks
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Torque wrench (3/8-inch drive)
- Torque wrench (1/2-inch drive)
- Engine support bar (specialty)
- Floor jack rubber pad
- Wood block (2x6-inch, 12-inch long)
- Trim clip tool
- Ratchet (3/8-inch drive)
- Ratchet (1/2-inch drive)
Engine support bar = a bar that holds engine up.
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Left engine mount - Qty: 1
- Right engine mount - Qty: 1
- Pitch stopper mount - Qty: 1
- Transmission mount - Qty: 1
I’ll narrow this list once you tell me which mount.
đź“‹ Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
- Lift the front and support it on jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) at proper lift points.
- Plan your engine support method: use an engine support bar (specialty) from above, or a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) with a wood block (2x6-inch) under the oil pan area to spread the load.
- Do not “hang” the engine by one mount; keep light support on the engine the whole time.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Confirm which mount you’re doing
- Reply with: left, right, pitch stopper, and/or transmission mount.
- The fastener access, components removed, and Torque to XX Nm (YY ft-lbs) values differ by mount.
Step 2: I’ll send the exact OEM procedure + torque specs
- Once you answer the two questions above, I’ll provide the complete step-by-step with exact tool sizes, what to remove for access, and all torque specs.
âś… After Repair
- Start the engine and verify no abnormal vibration at idle.
- With your foot on the brake, shift through R/D and listen for clunks.
- Test drive slowly first; recheck for new noises over bumps and on takeoff.
đź’° DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $450-$1,200 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $120-$600 (parts only)
You Save: $330-$600 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-6 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.
