🔧 Crosstrek - Engine Mount Replacement

On your Crosstrek, there are multiple “mounts” that people call engine mounts: the left and right engine mounts (main ones), the pitch stop mount (top “dogbone” that limits rocking), and the transmission mount. The steps and torque specs change depending on which one(s) you’re replacing.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 2.5-5.0 hours

Two quick questions so I give you the exact, correct procedure + torque specs:

• ❓ Which mount(s) are you replacing: left/right engine mounts, pitch stop mount, and/or transmission mount?
• ❓ Do you have an engine support bar (a bar that holds the engine from above) or will you be using a floor jack with a wood block under the oil pan?

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Never get under the vehicle supported only by a jack—use jack stands.
• ⚠️ The engine must be supported before loosening mount nuts/bolts, or parts can shift suddenly.
• ⚠️ If using a jack under the engine, use a wood block to spread the load; do not jack directly on aluminum parts.
• ⚠️ Keep hands clear between the mount and bracket while raising/lowering the engine.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not usually required, but remove the key and keep the car in neutral with wheels chocked.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Wood block (2x6 or similar)
• Metric socket set 8mm-19mm
• Metric wrench set 8mm-19mm
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• Torque wrench 10-150 ft-lbs
• Extensions set 3"-12"
• Universal joint adapter
• Trim clip remover
• Flathead screwdriver
• Penetrating oil
• Engine support bar (specialty)

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Left engine mount - Qty: 1
• Right engine mount - Qty: 1
• Pitch stop mount - Qty: 1
• Transmission mount - Qty: 1
• New mount hardware (nuts/bolts) if required - Qty: 1 set

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
• Open the hood and remove any loose items around the engine bay.
• Spray penetrating oil on mount fasteners you can access and let it soak 10 minutes.
• If lifting the vehicle, raise the front and place it securely on jack stands under the proper lift points.
• Plan how you’ll support the engine: engine support bar (holds engine from above) is safest; otherwise use a floor jack + wood block lightly touching the oil pan.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Confirm which mount(s) you’re doing

• Reply with: left/right engine mounts, pitch stop, and/or transmission mount.
• This matters because access points, what must be removed, and Torque to XX Nm (YY ft-lbs) values differ by mount.

Step 2: Support the engine safely

• If using engine support bar (specialty), install it across the strut towers and tension it per the tool instructions.
• If using a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum), place the wood block on the jack pad and lightly support the engine from below.
• Only support—do not lift aggressively.

Step 3: Create access (varies by mount)

• Use trim clip remover and flathead screwdriver to remove any undertray clips/fasteners as needed.
• Use metric socket set 8mm-19mm and extensions set 3"-12" to remove obstructing brackets/covers as required for the mount you’re doing.

Step 4: Loosen mount fasteners while engine is supported

• Use penetrating oil again if fasteners are stubborn.
• Use 1/2" drive breaker bar and metric sockets to crack loose mount-to-subframe and mount-to-engine bracket fasteners.
• Do not fully remove everything yet—leave a few threads engaged until you confirm the engine is stable.

Step 5: Remove the mount

• Use 3/8" drive ratchet, extensions, and universal joint adapter to remove the remaining fasteners.
• Slowly raise/lower the engine a small amount with the floor jack (or adjust the engine support bar) to relieve binding and slide the mount out.
• Move the engine in tiny increments.

Step 6: Install the new mount and hand-start hardware

• Position the new mount in the same orientation as the old one.
• Hand-thread all nuts/bolts first to prevent cross-threading.
• Use metric socket set 8mm-19mm to snug fasteners, but do not final-torque yet.

Step 7: Final torque (needs your answers)

• Once you tell me which mount(s) you’re replacing, I’ll give you the exact fastener list and Torque to XX Nm (YY ft-lbs) for each one.
• Use torque wrench 10-150 ft-lbs for final tightening.

Step 8: Reassemble and recheck

• Reinstall any trays/covers using metric sockets and trim clip remover.
• Remove the engine support bar or lower the floor jack completely.
• Double-check all tools are out of the engine bay.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and let it idle 1-2 minutes. Watch for abnormal shaking or knocking.
• With the clutch depressed, gently blip the throttle and check for excessive engine movement.
• Take a short test drive and recheck for any new vibrations.
• If you removed an undertray, recheck its fasteners after the drive.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $600-$1,400 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $120-$600 (parts only)

You Save: $480-$800 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2.5-5.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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