🔧 Maxima - Engine Mount Replacement

On your Maxima, “engine mounts” can mean more than one mount: the right-side engine mount, the left-side transmission mount, and the rear torque mount (often called a “dogbone”). The steps and torque specs are different for each one, and some require supporting the engine/transmission safely before unbolting anything.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-5 hours (depends on which mounts)

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Never get under the car supported only by a jack—use jack stands.
• 🛑 You must support the engine/transmission before loosening any mount fasteners, or you can tear hoses/wiring and damage the CVT case.
• 🛑 Let the exhaust cool fully; the rear mount area can be near hot components.
• 🛑 Keep hands clear while raising/lowering the engine; it can shift suddenly.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Socket set (8mm-19mm)
• Deep socket set (10mm-19mm)
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• Torque wrench (10-200 ft-lbs)
• Extensions (3", 6", 12")
• Universal swivel adapter
• Trim clip remover
• Flathead screwdriver
• Pry bar (12"-18")
• Wood block (2x6" about 12" long)
• Engine support bar (specialty)

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Right-side engine mount - Qty: 1
• Left-side transmission mount - Qty: 1
• Rear torque mount (dogbone mount) - Qty: 1
• Mount fastener kit - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🅿️ Park on level ground, steering straight, and chock the rear wheels.
• 🧰 Decide how you’ll support the engine: an engine support bar spans the fenders and holds the engine from above (safer), while a floor jack + wood block supports from below.
• 🔋 Battery disconnect is usually not required, but if you’ll remove the battery tray/air box area near the left mount, disconnect the negative cable with a 10mm socket.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Confirm which mount(s) you’re replacing

• Look for mount location: right-side (passenger side), left-side (driver side/transmission), and rear torque mount (rear of engine/trans area).
• Reply with which one(s): right, left, rear torque, or all three.

Step 2: Safely raise and support the car (if doing rear torque mount)

• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) at the proper front center lift point.
• Place jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) at the front pinch weld points.
• Shake-test the car lightly before going under it.

Step 3: Support the engine/transmission before loosening mounts

• Support first, unbolt second.
• Preferred: Install the engine support bar (specialty) and take light tension on the engine.
• Alternate: Place a wood block (2x6") on the floor jack, then gently contact the oil pan area and lift just enough to hold weight (do not crush the pan).

Step 4: Remove access components for the mount you’re doing

• Use a trim clip remover and flathead screwdriver to remove any plastic clips and covers.
• Use a socket set (8mm-19mm) with extensions as needed to remove brackets/air ducting that blocks access.

Step 5: Unbolt the mount and bracket

• Use a breaker bar and the correct deep socket to crack fasteners loose.
• Use a ratchet, extensions, and a universal swivel adapter for tight bolts.
• Raise/lower the engine slightly with the engine support bar or floor jack to remove tension from the mount bolts.
• Torque specs vary by mount and fastener location; once you tell me which mount(s), I’ll give the exact bolt-by-bolt torque list for reassembly.

Step 6: Install the new mount

• Position the new mount by hand first.
• Start all bolts/nuts by hand to avoid cross-threading.
• Use a pry bar (12"-18") only to align holes gently—don’t force the mount into place.

Step 7: Tighten fasteners in the correct order

• Snug all fasteners first with a ratchet.
• Then use a torque wrench (10-200 ft-lbs) to tighten to the correct spec.
• Reinstall any brackets/covers removed using the same socket set and trim clip remover.

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✅ After Repair

• 👂 Start the engine and listen for new clunks or vibration at idle.
• 🧪 With the brake firmly held, shift through P-R-N-D and feel for excessive movement (normal is slight movement).
• 🛣️ Road test: light acceleration from a stop and gentle braking; re-check for noises.
• 🔎 Re-check mount fasteners visually for full seating.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $600-$1,500 (parts + labor, depends on how many mounts)

DIY Cost: $150-$600 (parts only, depends on how many mounts)

You Save: $450-$900 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

Tell me: (1) which mount(s) you’re replacing (right, left, rear torque, or all), and (2) do you have an engine support bar or only a floor jack? Then I’ll give you the exact, mount-specific steps and torque specs for your Maxima.

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.