🔧 Altima - Engine Mount Replacement

The engine mounts on your Altima hold the 2.5L engine and CVT transmission in place while absorbing vibration. Worn mounts can cause clunking, harsh vibration at idle, engine movement when shifting into Drive or Reverse, and thumps during acceleration.

This job usually involves replacing the upper right engine mount, front torque mount, rear torque mount, and left transmission mount as needed. For best results, replace the failed mount first, or replace all worn mounts as a set.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support the engine before removing any mount. Never let the engine or CVT hang by hoses, wiring, or the remaining mounts.
• ⚠️ Use a wood block between the floor jack and oil pan to spread the load and prevent pan damage.
• ⚠️ Do not place your hands between the engine, brackets, and body while raising or lowering the engine.
• ⚠️ Replace only one mount at a time so the powertrain stays aligned.
• ⚠️ Work on a cold engine to avoid burns from the exhaust, radiator, and engine brackets.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is recommended because you will work near the right-side engine bay and battery area.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Wood block 2x6-inch
• 10mm socket
• 12mm socket
• 14mm socket
• 16mm socket
• 17mm socket
• 18mm socket
• 19mm socket
• 21mm socket
• 10mm wrench
• 14mm wrench
• 17mm wrench
• 3/8-inch drive ratchet
• 1/2-inch drive ratchet
• 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
• 3-inch extension 3/8-inch drive
• 6-inch extension 3/8-inch drive
• 6-inch extension 1/2-inch drive
• Universal joint 3/8-inch drive
• 1/2-inch drive torque wrench
• 3/8-inch drive torque wrench
• Trim clip removal tool
• Flathead screwdriver 6-inch
• Pry bar 18-inch
• Paint marker
• Penetrating oil spray

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Right upper engine mount - Qty: 1
• Front engine torque mount - Qty: 1
• Rear engine torque mount - Qty: 1
• Left transmission mount - Qty: 1
• Engine mount bolts and nuts - Qty: 1 set
• Under-engine splash shield clips - Qty: As needed

Note: If only one mount is failed, you can replace that mount only. If vibration remains afterward, the other mounts may also be worn.

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🚗 Park your Altima on level ground, shift to Park, and apply the parking brake.
• 🧱 Place wheel chocks behind both rear wheels.
• ❄️ Let the engine cool completely before working.
• 🔋 Use a 10mm wrench to disconnect the negative battery cable, then move it aside so it cannot touch the battery post.
• 📌 A torque mount limits rocking movement when the engine twists during acceleration or shifting.
• 📌 A universal joint is a small socket adapter that lets the ratchet turn bolts at a slight angle.
• 📌 Mark each old mount position with a paint marker before removal to help align the new mount.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Open the Hood and Remove the Engine Cover Area Obstructions

• Use a 10mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to remove any battery hold-down or intake duct fasteners blocking mount access.
• Use a flathead screwdriver 6-inch to loosen the air intake hose clamp if the intake duct needs to move.
• Use a trim clip removal tool to release plastic retainers without breaking them.
• Take photos before unplugging anything.

Step 2: Raise and Support the Front of the Vehicle

• Use a floor jack at the front center jacking point to lift the front of your Altima.
• Place jack stands under the front side support points.
• Lower the vehicle gently onto the jack stands.
• Keep the floor jack available because it will support the engine next.

Step 3: Remove the Lower Splash Shield

• Use a trim clip removal tool to remove the lower splash shield clips.
• Use a 10mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to remove any splash shield screws.
• Set the shield and fasteners aside in order.

Step 4: Support the Engine

• Place a wood block 2x6-inch on the floor jack.
• Position the wood block under a flat, strong area of the engine oil pan.
• Raise the floor jack until the wood just contacts the pan and lightly supports the engine.
• Do not lift the vehicle off the jack stands.
• Support only; do not jack hard.

Step 5: Replace the Right Upper Engine Mount

• Use a paint marker to mark the mount position on the body bracket.
• Use a 14mm socket, 17mm socket, 3/8-inch drive ratchet, and 6-inch extension 3/8-inch drive to remove the mount fasteners.
• If the engine shifts slightly, use the floor jack to raise or lower the engine a small amount until the bolts slide out easily.
• Remove the old right upper engine mount from the engine bay.
• Install the new right upper engine mount by hand-starting all bolts before tightening.
• Use a 14mm socket, 17mm socket, and 3/8-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the mount-to-body and mount-to-engine fasteners.
• Torque to 59-73 Nm (44-54 ft-lbs).

Step 6: Replace the Front Engine Torque Mount

• Work from underneath the front of the engine bay.
• Use a 14mm socket, 17mm socket, 1/2-inch drive ratchet, and 6-inch extension 1/2-inch drive to remove the front torque mount bolts.
• Use a pry bar 18-inch only for gentle alignment if the mount is stuck.
• Install the new front torque mount and hand-start all bolts first.
• Use the floor jack to slightly adjust engine height until the bolts thread smoothly.
• Use a 17mm socket and 1/2-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the front torque mount bolts.
• Torque to 85-103 Nm (63-76 ft-lbs).

Step 7: Replace the Rear Engine Torque Mount

• Work from underneath near the rear of the engine and front subframe.
• Spray the rear mount bolts with penetrating oil spray if they are rusty or tight.
• Use a 17mm socket, 19mm socket, 1/2-inch drive breaker bar, 6-inch extension 1/2-inch drive, and universal joint 3/8-inch drive where access is angled.
• Remove the rear torque mount bolts and slide the mount out.
• Install the new rear torque mount and hand-start all bolts.
• Use the floor jack to adjust engine position slightly if the bolt holes do not line up.
• Use a 19mm socket and 1/2-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the rear torque mount bolts.
• Torque to 85-103 Nm (63-76 ft-lbs).

Step 8: Replace the Left Transmission Mount

• Move the floor jack and wood block 2x6-inch so they support the CVT transmission case, not the plastic pan or wiring.
• Use a 10mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to move any battery tray or air box parts blocking access.
• Use a 14mm socket, 17mm socket, 18mm socket, 3/8-inch drive ratchet, and 6-inch extension 3/8-inch drive to remove the transmission mount fasteners.
• Remove the old left transmission mount.
• Install the new left transmission mount and hand-start every bolt before tightening.
• Use the floor jack to raise or lower the CVT slightly until all bolts sit straight.
• Use a 17mm socket, 18mm socket, and 3/8-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the transmission mount fasteners.
• Torque to 59-73 Nm (44-54 ft-lbs).

Step 9: Recheck All Mount Fasteners

• Use the correct 14mm socket, 17mm socket, 18mm socket, or 19mm socket with the proper torque wrench to recheck every mount fastener you touched.
• Make sure no wiring harnesses, hoses, or brackets are pinched under a mount.
• Remove the floor jack and wood block 2x6-inch only after all mounts are fully tightened.

Step 10: Reinstall the Lower Splash Shield

• Raise the splash shield into position by hand.
• Use the trim clip removal tool to help seat plastic clips if needed.
• Use a 10mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to reinstall splash shield screws.
• Do not overtighten plastic shield screws.

Step 11: Reinstall Upper Engine Bay Parts

• Use a 10mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to reinstall the battery tray, battery hold-down, intake duct, or brackets that were removed.
• Use a flathead screwdriver 6-inch to tighten the intake hose clamp if removed.
• Reconnect any clips or retainers by hand.

Step 12: Reconnect the Battery

• Use a 10mm wrench to reconnect the negative battery cable.
• Make sure the terminal is snug and does not rotate by hand.

Step 13: Lower the Vehicle

• Use the floor jack to raise the vehicle slightly off the jack stands.
• Remove the jack stands.
• Lower your Altima slowly to the ground.

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✅ After Repair

• ✅ Start the engine and let it idle in Park. Watch for abnormal shaking, rattles, or parts touching the body.
• ✅ Press the brake firmly and shift from Park to Reverse, then to Drive. The engine should move only slightly.
• ✅ Take a short, gentle test drive. Listen for clunks during acceleration, braking, and low-speed turns.
• ✅ If the idle feels rough but no mount noise remains, allow the idle to stabilize for a few minutes after battery reconnection.
• ✅ Recheck visible mount fasteners after the test drive once the engine cools.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $750-$1,500 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $250-$700 (parts only)

You Save: $500-$800 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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