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2018 Hyundai Ioniq
2018 Hyundai Ioniq
Hybrid Blue - Inline 4 1.6L
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How to Replace Front Engine Torque Strut Mount 2017-2020 Hyundai Elantra

How to Replace Front Engine Torque Strut Mount 2017-2020 Hyundai Elantra

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3 Ton
3 Ton
Floor Jack
3 Ton
3 Ton
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Wheel Chocks
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How to Replace Engine Mounts on a 2018 Hyundai Ioniq (Hybrid)

Step-by-step mount swap guide with required tools, safety tips, support methods, and torque-spec notes

How to Replace Engine Mounts on a 2018 Hyundai Ioniq (Hybrid)

Step-by-step mount swap guide with required tools, safety tips, support methods, and torque-spec notes

Orion Logo White
Orion Logo White

đź”§ Ioniq - Engine Mount Replacement

On your Ioniq, the “engine mounts” are several mounts that support the engine/transaxle and control drivetrain movement. The exact steps and torque specs depend on which mount you’re replacing (right upper, left trans mount, or lower torque/roll mount).

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 2-5 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • Support the drivetrain before loosening any mount. If it drops, it can damage wiring, hoses, and the exhaust.
  • Never rely on a floor jack alone—use jack stands on solid points.
  • Keep hands clear when raising/lowering the engine support—small movements can pinch.
  • Hybrid caution: avoid orange high-voltage cables and connectors; do not pull/strain them while shifting the powertrain.
  • If you’ll remove/shift wiring brackets near a mount, disconnect the 12V battery negative terminal first.

đź”§ Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks
  • Safety glasses
  • Mechanic gloves
  • Metric socket set (8mm-19mm)
  • Metric wrench set (10mm-19mm)
  • Ratchet (3/8" drive)
  • Breaker bar (1/2" drive)
  • Torque wrench (10-200 Nm range)
  • Trim clip removal tool
  • Flathead screwdriver
  • Engine support bar (specialty)
  • Wood block (2x4, ~12" long)
  • Paint marker
  • Flashlight

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Engine mount - Qty: 1
  • Mount fastener set - Qty: 1

đź“‹ Before You Begin

  • Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake. Chock the rear wheels.
  • Open the hood and remove any loose items so nothing falls into the engine bay.
  • If you’ll work near harnesses/brackets, disconnect the 12V battery negative terminal using a 10mm socket.
  • Plan how you’ll support the drivetrain: the safest method is an engine support bar (specialty) across the strut towers. This holds the engine from above.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Confirm which mount you’re replacing

  • Look for the mount location:
  • Right upper mount: passenger-side, near the belt/engine side, bolted to the body and engine bracket.
  • Left upper mount: driver-side, on top of the transmission, bolted to the body and transmission bracket.
  • Lower torque/roll mount: lower area (often near subframe), controls fore/aft rocking.
  • Use a flashlight and a paint marker to mark the current position of any slotted brackets (if present).

Step 2: Safely raise and support the car (if needed)

  • Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
  • Lift the front with a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) and support with jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
  • Give the car a firm shake test before going underneath.

Step 3: Support the drivetrain

  • Install the engine support bar (specialty) across the strut towers per its instructions.
  • Take up light tension until the engine just begins to “feel supported.”
  • If you must support from below: place a wood block (2x4, ~12" long) on the floor jack and gently contact a strong flat area of the engine/transmission case. Do not jack on plastic covers.

Step 4: Remove access covers/ducting (varies by mount)

  • Remove any top plastic covers using a flathead screwdriver and trim clip removal tool.
  • If an air duct/box blocks access, loosen clamps/fasteners using the correct size from your metric socket set (8mm-19mm).

Step 5: STOP — I need 2 quick answers before bolt-by-bolt steps and torque specs

  • Which mount are you replacing on your Ioniq: right upper, left upper (trans), or lower torque/roll?
  • Do you have an engine support bar, or will you be supporting from below with a jack and wood block?

âś… After Repair

  • After the mount is replaced and torqued, start the car and let it idle while you watch for excessive movement.
  • Test drive gently and check for clunks on start/stop and light acceleration.
  • Recheck for loose fasteners and any tools left in the engine bay.

đź’° DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$1,200 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $80-$350 (parts only)

You Save: $370-$850 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-4 hours.


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