🔧 Pilot - Engine Mount Replacement

On your Pilot, “engine mounts” can mean several different mounts (right/passenger-side engine mount, left/driver-side transmission mount, rear mount, and sometimes a front mount). The exact steps and torque specs change depending on which mount(s) you’re replacing and whether your Pilot is AWD or FWD.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 2-6 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Never get under the vehicle supported only by a jack; use jack stands.
• ⚠️ Support the engine before unbolting any mount; an unsupported engine can drop and damage wiring/hoses.
• ⚠️ Keep hands clear when lifting/tilting the engine; pinch hazard.
• ⚠️ Let the exhaust/catalyst cool fully before working near the rear mount area.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Socket set (8mm-19mm)
• Deep socket set (14mm-19mm)
• Ratchet (3/8")
• Breaker bar (1/2")
• Torque wrench (10-200 ft-lbs)
• Extensions (3", 6", 12")
• Universal swivel joint
• Trim clip removal tool
• Flat trim tool
• Pry bar
• Wood block (2x4)
• Engine support bar (specialty)

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Right-side engine mount - Qty: 1
• Left-side transmission mount - Qty: 1
• Rear engine mount - Qty: 1
• Front engine mount - Qty: 1
• New mount fasteners (if required by Honda for one-time-use) - Qty: 1 set

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
• Open the hood and remove loose items from the engine bay.
• Plan how you’ll support the engine: an engine support bar spans the strut towers and holds the engine from above (safer than lifting from below).
• If working near the radiator fans, disconnect the negative battery terminal using a 10mm socket.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: I need 2 quick details (so the steps match your Pilot)

• Is your Pilot AWD or FWD?
• Which mount(s) are you replacing: right (passenger), left (driver/trans), rear, and/or front?

Step 2: Safely raise and support the Pilot

• Place wheel chocks behind the rear tires.
• Lift the front with a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) at the proper front jacking point.
• Set the vehicle onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).

Step 3: Support the engine

• Install the engine support bar (specialty) and take the engine’s weight slightly.
• If you must lift from below, place a wood block (2x4) on the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) and gently contact the oil pan area; lift only enough to “hold” the engine, not raise the vehicle.
• Go slow—small lifts make a big difference.

Step 4: Access the mount you’re replacing (varies by mount)

• Remove splash shields/undercovers using a trim clip removal tool and socket set (8mm-19mm).
• Remove any brackets or components blocking access using a ratchet (3/8"), extensions (3", 6", 12"), and universal swivel joint.

Step 5: Remove the mount fasteners and the mount

• Use a breaker bar (1/2") with the appropriate deep socket set (14mm-19mm) to loosen mount bolts/nuts.
• Adjust engine height/tilt with the engine support bar (specialty) to relieve tension on the bolts.
• Remove the mount and compare it to the replacement (same shape, bolt holes, and any vacuum/electrical ports).
• If a bolt fights you, change engine angle slightly.

Step 6: Install the new mount and hand-start all fasteners

• Position the mount and start all bolts/nuts by hand to avoid cross-threading.
• Use a pry bar only gently if you need to line up holes.

Step 7: Torque fasteners (torque specs depend on AWD/FWD and mount)

• Use a torque wrench (10-200 ft-lbs) to torque all mount and bracket fasteners.
• Torque to OEM spec once you confirm AWD/FWD and which mount(s) you’re doing (I’ll provide the exact values and bolt-by-bolt order).

Step 8: Reassemble and lower the vehicle

• Reinstall shields/undercover using a socket set (8mm-19mm) and trim clip removal tool.
• Lower the Pilot off the jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• If disconnected, reconnect the battery negative terminal using a 10mm socket.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and let it idle; listen for clunks and watch for excessive engine movement.
• Shift through P-R-N-D with your foot on the brake; verify no harsh thump.
• Test drive at low speed; recheck for new vibrations, and recheck any fasteners you touched.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $600-$1,800 (parts + labor, depending on which mounts)

DIY Cost: $120-$800 (parts only, depending on which mounts)

You Save: $480-$1,000 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-6 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.