🔧 Fit - Engine Mount Replacement

On your Fit, there isn’t just “one” engine mount—there are multiple mounts that support and control engine/transmission movement. The steps and torque specs change depending on which mount(s) you’re replacing, and you also need a safe way to support the engine before unbolting anything.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 2-6 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Never remove a mount unless the engine is supported.
• ⚠️ Use jack stands; never work under a car held by a jack.
• ⚠️ Keep hands clear while lifting/supporting the engine.
• ⚠️ Exhaust and radiator parts can be hot; work cold.
• ⚠️ If you remove the battery or tray near wiring, disconnect the negative terminal first.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Metric socket set (8mm-19mm)
• Metric wrench set (8mm-19mm)
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• 1/2" drive torque wrench (20-200 ft-lbs)
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• Extensions (3", 6", 12")
• Universal joint adapter
• Trim clip tool
• Flathead screwdriver
• Pry bar
• Penetrating oil
• Block of wood (2x6)
• Engine support bar (specialty)
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Right-side engine mount (passenger-side mount) - Qty: 1
• Left-side transmission mount (driver-side mount) - Qty: 1
• Rear engine mount (rear torque mount) - Qty: 1
• Front engine mount (front torque mount) - Qty: 1
• New mount bracket bolts and nuts (recommended if specified) - Qty: 1 set

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, put the car in 1st gear, and set the parking brake.
• Chock the rear wheels using wheel chocks.
• Plan how you’ll support the engine: an engine support bar (specialty) holds the engine from above; this is the safest method for mount work.
• If working near the battery tray area, disconnect the battery using a 10mm socket and remove the negative terminal first.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Confirm which mount(s) you’re replacing

• There are multiple mounts and access points; I need the exact mount location to give correct, manufacturer-specific steps and torque specs.
• Please tell me which one: right (passenger), left (driver/trans), front torque, rear torque, or “all mounts.”

Step 2: Confirm your support method

• Do you have an engine support bar (specialty), or will you be using a floor jack with a 2x6 wood block under the oil pan?
• Oil pan support must be gentle and flat.

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✅ After Repair

• Visually confirm the engine sits level and no mount is “pre-loaded” (pulled sideways) before final tightening.
• Start the engine and watch for excessive movement while lightly blipping the throttle in neutral.
• Test drive and listen for clunks on takeoff and shifts.
• Recheck fasteners after the test drive.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $500-$1,400 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $150-$650 (parts only)

You Save: $350-$750 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-6 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.