How to Replace Engine Mounts on a 2018 Ford Fusion (All Mount Locations)
Step-by-step instructions, required tools/parts, safety tips, and torque spec guidance by mount type
How to Replace Engine Mounts on a 2018 Ford Fusion (All Mount Locations)
Step-by-step instructions, required tools/parts, safety tips, and torque spec guidance by mount type


đź”§ Fusion - Engine Mount Replacement
On your Fusion Hybrid, there isn’t just one “engine mount”—there are multiple mounts/torque struts, and the removal steps and bolt torques depend on which one you’re replacing. Tell me which mount location you mean and I’ll give you the exact, trim-correct step-by-step.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.0-3.0 hours (depends on mount)
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Support the powertrain before removing any mount; removing a mount unsupported can drop/shift the engine and damage hoses/wiring.
- ⚠️ Keep hands/tools away from the radiator fan; it can turn on unexpectedly.
- ⚠️ If you’ll be working near orange cables/connectors: do not disturb them (hybrid high-voltage components).
- ⚠️ Use jack stands; never rely on a floor jack alone.
đź”§ Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Socket set (8mm–21mm)
- Ratchet (3/8")
- Breaker bar (1/2")
- Torque wrench (10–200 Nm range)
- Extensions set (3"–12")
- Pry bar (12"–18")
- Trim clip removal tool
- Flat screwdriver
- Safety glasses
- Mechanic gloves
- Wood block (2x6")
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Engine mount - Qty: 1
- New engine mount bolts (if required) - Qty: 1 set
đź“‹ Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
- Open the hood and remove loose items around the mount area.
- If lifting the car, raise the front with a floor jack and support with jack stands on the proper lift points.
- Plan how you will support the engine: a floor jack with a wood block under the oil pan area is common; the wood spreads the load so you don’t dent anything.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Confirm which mount you’re replacing
- I need one detail to give you the correct OEM sequence and torque specs.
- Which one is it: Passenger-side (right) upper mount, Driver-side (left) transmission mount, or Lower torque strut/roll restrictor (front or rear)?
Step 2: Tell me your symptom (so we don’t replace the wrong mount)
- What are you noticing: vibration at idle, clunk when shifting R/D, or thump on acceleration/braking?
âś… After Repair
- After the correct mount is installed, you’ll re-check clearances, then test for vibration/clunks on a short drive.
- If any warning lights appear after the repair, stop and I’ll walk you through the right checks.
đź’° DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $350-$900 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $80-$350 (parts only)
You Save: $270-$550 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1-3 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.

















