🔧 Edge - Engine Mount Replacement

Your Edge uses multiple mounts (typically an upper engine-side mount, a transmission-side mount, and a lower “torque strut” that controls rocking). The exact steps and torque specs change depending on which mount you’re replacing, so I need one quick detail to keep this accurate and safe.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 2.0-5.0 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Never get under the engine unless it’s properly supported.
• 🛑 Do not lift the engine by the oil pan without a wide wood block; the pan can deform and cause leaks.
• 🛑 Keep hands clear when raising/lowering the engine; it can shift suddenly.
• 🛑 If you remove any mount fully, the engine/trans can drop/tilt—support must stay in place the whole time.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Wood block (2x6 or similar, 12-18 in long)
• Engine support bar (specialty)
• 1/2-inch drive torque wrench
• 3/8-inch drive torque wrench
• 1/2-inch drive ratchet
• 3/8-inch drive ratchet
• Socket set (8mm-21mm)
• Deep socket set (10mm-18mm)
• Extensions (3-inch, 6-inch, 12-inch)
• Swivel socket adapter
• Trim clip remover
• Flathead screwdriver
• Pry bar (12-18 inch)
• Paint marker

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Engine mount - Qty: 1
• Transmission mount - Qty: 1
• Lower torque strut mount - Qty: 1
• New mount fasteners - Qty: 1 set

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on a flat surface, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Lift the front and support it with jack stands under the proper lift points.
• Two quick questions so I give you the correct mount location + torque specs:
  • Which mount are you replacing on your Edge: passenger-side upper engine mount, driver-side transmission mount, or lower torque strut (rear/bottom)?
  • Do you have an engine support bar, or only a floor jack + wood block?
• Tip: A support bar is safest for upper mounts.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Confirm the mount location

• Open the hood and look for the mount near the passenger-side strut tower (upper mount), and the mount under the battery tray area on the driver side (trans mount).
• From underneath (use safety glasses), look for the lower “torque strut” mount attached to the subframe; it limits engine rocking.
• Reply with which one you’re doing (or if you’re doing all of them), and I’ll give the exact removal order and Torque to XX Nm (YY ft-lbs) specs for each fastener.

Step 2: Do not remove mount bolts yet

• Until the engine is correctly supported, do not loosen the mount-to-body or mount-to-engine bolts.
• If you only have a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum), place a wood block between the jack pad and the engine support area before applying light support.

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✅ After Repair

• Once installed, you’ll re-check all fasteners with a torque wrench and verify the engine sits level.
• You’ll test for vibration in Park, Reverse, and Drive, and check for any clunks on light acceleration.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $500-$1,500 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $120-$600 (parts only)

You Save: $380-$900 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.