🔧 Durango - Engine Mount Replacement

On your Durango, the left and right engine mounts hold the 6.4L securely to the chassis and control vibration. Replacing them requires safely supporting the engine, removing mount hardware, and installing the new mounts without stressing hoses, wiring, or the exhaust.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 4-7 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Support the engine before loosening any mount bolts.
• 🛑 Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack; use jack stands.
• 🛑 Keep hands clear when raising/lowering the engine; pinch hazard.
• 🛑 Allow exhaust components to cool completely before starting.
• 🔋 Battery disconnect is recommended before working near the starter/alternator wiring.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Engine support bar (specialty)
• Block of wood (2x6)
• Metric socket set 8–21mm
• External Torx socket set (E-socket set)
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• Extensions set (3", 6", 12")
• Universal joint adapter
• Torque wrench (10–150 ft-lbs range)
• Trim clip removal tool
• Flat-blade screwdriver
• Pry bar
• Paint marker
• Penetrating oil
• Work light

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Left engine mount - Qty: 1
• Right engine mount - Qty: 1
• Engine mount fastener kit (recommended) - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
• Open the hood and remove any loose items from the engine bay.
• Disconnect the battery negative terminal using a 10mm socket (recommended).
• If you don’t have an engine support bar (specialty): you can support the engine from below with a floor jack and a 2x6 wood block under the oil pan area, but raise only enough to carry the engine’s weight.
• Tip: Spray mount bolts with penetrating oil early.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise and secure the vehicle

• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front at the factory lift point.
• Set the front down onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Confirm stability with a gentle push before going underneath.

Step 2: Remove lower shields/skid plates for access

• Use a trim clip removal tool and metric socket set 8–21mm to remove the fasteners holding the lower splash shield/skid plate(s).
• Set hardware aside in labeled piles (left/right/front).

Step 3: Remove upper intake/ducting as needed for access

• Use a flat-blade screwdriver and metric socket set 8–21mm to loosen intake clamps and remove the air inlet ducting that blocks access near the mount areas.
• Use a work light to identify what’s obstructing the mount fasteners.

Step 4: Support the engine

• If using an engine support bar (specialty): position it across the strut towers and attach the chains/hooks to proper engine lift points, then take up slack until the engine just starts to “float.” (An engine support bar holds the engine from above while mounts are removed.)
• If supporting from below: place a 2x6 wood block on the pad of the floor jack, then gently lift under the engine oil pan area only enough to carry weight.
• Use a paint marker to mark the current mount position/alignment if visible.

Step 5: Locate the left and right engine mounts

• Use a work light to find each mount between the engine bracket and the chassis cradle.
• Use an external Torx socket set (E-socket set) and metric socket set 8–21mm to identify what head styles are used on your mount fasteners.

Step 6: Remove mount heat shields/brackets (if equipped)

• Use a metric socket set 8–21mm and extensions set (3", 6", 12") to remove any shields blocking the mount-to-engine or mount-to-cradle bolts.
• Use a trim clip removal tool for any plastic retainers.

Step 7: Remove the mount through-bolt(s)

• Use a breaker bar with the correct socket from your metric socket set 8–21mm (or E-socket set) to loosen the main mount through-bolt/nut.
• Use a ratchet and extensions set (3", 6", 12") to remove the hardware fully.
• If the bolt binds, slightly raise/lower the engine using the engine support bar (specialty) or floor jack to relieve tension.

Step 8: Remove the mount-to-chassis and mount-to-engine fasteners

• Use a ratchet, extensions set (3", 6", 12"), and the correct socket from your metric socket set 8–21mm (or E-socket set) to remove the mount fasteners at the cradle and engine bracket.
• Use a universal joint adapter where access is tight.
• Use a pry bar gently only if needed to free the mount from its locating pins.

Step 9: Remove the mount and compare parts

• Remove the old mount from the engine bay (top or bottom depending on clearance) using your hands and a work light to guide it.
• Compare new vs old mount orientation, bolt holes, and locating tabs.
• Tip: Install one mount at a time.

Step 10: Install the new mount (start all bolts by hand)

• Position the new mount in place.
• Thread all mount bolts/nuts by hand first to prevent cross-threading.
• Use a ratchet with the correct socket from your metric socket set 8–21mm (or E-socket set) to snug hardware, but do not fully torque yet.

Step 11: Align the drivetrain and torque fasteners

• Slowly raise/lower the engine using the engine support bar (specialty) or floor jack until the through-bolt slides in smoothly without forcing.
• Install the through-bolt and nut using a ratchet and correct socket.
• Final-tighten all mount fasteners using a torque wrench (10–150 ft-lbs range).
• Torque to OEM specification for your Durango’s left/right mount fasteners (this varies by fastener location and style; do not guess).

Step 12: Reinstall shields, ducting, and lower covers

• Reinstall heat shields/brackets using a ratchet and metric socket set 8–21mm.
• Reinstall intake ducting using a flat-blade screwdriver and metric socket set 8–21mm.
• Reinstall the lower splash shield/skid plate(s) using a trim clip removal tool and metric socket set 8–21mm.

Step 13: Reconnect the battery and lower the vehicle

• Reconnect the battery negative terminal using a 10mm socket.
• Lift slightly with the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum), remove the jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum), and lower the vehicle.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and let it idle; watch the engine for excessive movement.
• Check for new vibrations, clunks, or rattles at idle and in Reverse/Drive with the brake held.
• Take a short test drive and recheck for any loosened shields or contact noises.
• Recheck mount fasteners for proper torque if the service procedure calls for a re-torque.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: ₹25,000-₹55,000 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: ₹8,000-₹25,000 (parts only)

You Save: ₹17,000-₹30,000 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 4-7 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.

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Two quick questions so I can give you the exact torque specs and the cleanest access path:

• 🔎 Are you replacing both left and right engine mounts, or only one side?
• 🔎 Do you have an engine support bar (specialty), or will you be supporting the engine from below with a floor jack and wood?