🔧 Charger - Engine Mount Replacement

On your Charger, the engine mounts support the engine and isolate vibration. Replacing them requires safely supporting the engine, removing the mount fasteners, and swapping the mount(s) without stressing wiring, hoses, or the exhaust.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support the engine before unbolting any mount; an unsupported engine can drop suddenly.
• ⚠️ Never get under the car supported only by a jack; use jack stands on the correct lift points.
• ⚠️ Keep hands clear when lifting the engine; move it slowly and only as needed.
• ⚠️ Work on a cool engine/exhaust; the manifolds and pipes can burn you.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is recommended if you’ll be near the starter/primary cables.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Wood block (2x6 or 2x8)
• Socket set 8mm-21mm
• Deep socket set 13mm-21mm
• Ratchet 3/8" drive
• Ratchet 1/2" drive
• Breaker bar 1/2" drive
• Extensions 3", 6", 12"
• Universal joint adapter 3/8"
• Torque wrench 10-150 ft-lbs
• Trim clip tool
• Flathead screwdriver
• Work light

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Engine mount (left/driver side) - Qty: 1
• Engine mount (right/passenger side) - Qty: 1
• Engine mount-to-bracket bolts (recommended) - Qty: 1 set
• Engine mount-to-cradle bolts/nuts (recommended) - Qty: 1 set

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
• If you have an electrical connector on either mount (an “active” mount), plan to disconnect it before lowering/removing the mount.
• Place a wood block on the floor jack pad before touching the oil pan; the block spreads the load so you don’t crack the pan.
• Quick questions (reply with A/B): A) Are you replacing left, right, or both mounts? B) Do your mounts have an electrical connector on them?

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Disconnect battery power

• Use a 10mm socket to disconnect the negative battery cable.
• Tuck the cable aside so it can’t spring back.

Step 2: Raise and support the front of the car

• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front at the proper jacking point.
• Set the car down onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Shake the car lightly to confirm it’s stable before going underneath.

Step 3: Remove the lower splash shield (if equipped)

• Use a trim clip tool and flathead screwdriver to remove push pins/clips.
• Use a socket set 8mm-10mm to remove any bolts.
• Set the shield and hardware aside in a tray.

Step 4: Support the engine

• Position the floor jack under the engine oil pan with the wood block between the jack and pan.
• Pump the jack just until the wood block contacts and slightly supports the engine weight.
• Lift only what you need.

Step 5: Unplug active mount connector (if equipped)

• If you see a connector on the mount, use a flathead screwdriver to release the lock tab.
• Unplug the connector and move the harness out of the way.
• Don’t pull on the wires.

Step 6: Loosen mount fasteners (do not fully remove yet)

• Use a breaker bar 1/2" drive with the correct deep socket set 13mm-21mm to crack loose the mount-to-cradle fasteners.
• Use a ratchet with extensions 6"-12" and a universal joint adapter 3/8" as needed for access.
• Leave a few threads engaged until you’re sure the engine is supported and the mount is free.

Step 7: Create clearance by lifting the engine slightly

• Use the floor jack to lift the engine slowly in small increments.
• Watch the radiator hoses, fan shroud area, exhaust, and wiring for stretching or binding.

Step 8: Remove the mount fasteners and remove the mount

• Use the appropriate socket and ratchet to remove the mount-to-cradle fasteners.
• Use the appropriate socket, extensions, and universal joint adapter to remove mount-to-engine bracket fasteners.
• Work the mount out through the available space; rotate it as needed.

Step 9: Install the new mount

• Position the new mount in place by hand (same orientation as removed).
• Start all fasteners by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
• If using new bolts, install them in the same locations as original.

Step 10: Lower engine onto the mount and torque fasteners

• Use the floor jack to lower the engine slowly until the mount aligns naturally.
• Use a torque wrench 10-150 ft-lbs to tighten fasteners.
• Torque to OEM spec for mount-to-bracket and mount-to-cradle fasteners.

Step 11: Reconnect active mount connector (if equipped)

• Reconnect the electrical connector until it clicks/locks.
• Verify the harness is clipped and routed away from heat and moving parts.

Step 12: Reinstall splash shield and lower the car

• Use a socket set 8mm-10mm and trim clip tool to reinstall the shield and clips.
• Use the floor jack to lift slightly, remove jack stands, then lower the car.

Step 13: Reconnect the battery

• Use a 10mm socket to reconnect the negative battery cable.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and let it idle; listen for knocking/clunking.
• With your foot on the brake, shift through R and D and confirm there’s no harsh thump.
• Test drive and recheck for any new vibration.
• If you had active mounts, scan for codes if a warning light appears.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $600-$1,400 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $150-$500 (parts only)

You Save: $450-$900 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-6 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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