🔧 Q5 - Engine Mount Replacement

Engine mounts support the engine and absorb vibration. On your Q5, the mounts can be standard hydraulic or electronically-controlled “active” mounts, and the steps/torques change depending on which style you have.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Never get under the Q5 supported only by a jack; use jack stands.
• ⚠️ The engine must be supported before loosening mount bolts, or parts can shift suddenly.
• ⚠️ Don’t jack directly on the oil pan; use a wide wood block to spread load.
• ⚠️ If your mounts have electrical connectors, disconnect the battery negative before unplugging them.
• ⚠️ Let the engine/exhaust cool completely to avoid burns.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Torque wrench (10-200 Nm range)
• Socket set (8mm-21mm)
• Ratchet (3/8")
• Breaker bar (1/2")
• Extensions set (3" and 6")
• Universal joint adapter (3/8")
• Torx bit set (T25-T45)
• Triple-square bit set (M10-M12)
• Trim clip removal tool
• Engine support bar (specialty)
• Wood block (2x6 or similar)
• Work light

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Left engine mount - Qty: 1
• Right engine mount - Qty: 1
• New engine mount bolts (single-use/stretch bolts) - Qty: 1 set
• Lower engine splash shield fasteners/clips (as needed) - Qty: 1 set

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
• Chock the rear wheels with wheel chocks.
• Open the hood and plan how you’ll support the engine with an engine support bar (specialty) (a crossbar that holds the engine from above).
• If your mounts have electrical connectors, disconnect the battery negative using a 10mm socket.
• Tip: Take photos before unplugging anything.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Confirm which mount type you have (needed for correct steps/torques)

• Raise the front safely using a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) and support with jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Remove the lower splash shield using a Torx T25 bit and trim clip removal tool.
• Look at each mount: if you see an electrical connector going into the mount, you have active mounts.
• Also note what you’re replacing: left/right engine mounts only, or engine mounts plus the transmission mount.

Step 2: Stop here so I can give the exact Audi-correct procedure and torque specs

• I can’t give safe, correct torque specs until I know which mount style you have and which mounts you’re replacing.
• Please answer the two questions below and I’ll immediately provide the full step-by-step with exact bolt locations, sequence, and torques.

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✅ After Repair

• After mounts are replaced, you’ll check for abnormal vibration at idle and for any warning lights.
• If you have active mounts, you’ll also verify no stored faults related to the mount solenoids/connectors.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$2,000 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $250-$900 (parts only)

You Save: $650-$1,100 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-6 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.

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Quick questions (reply with A/B answers):

• 🔹 Do your engine mounts have an electrical connector going into them? (A: Yes = active mounts, B: No = hydraulic only)
• 🔹 Are you replacing (A) both left & right engine mounts only, or (B) engine mounts + transmission mount?