🔧 Niro - Engine Mount Replacement

On your Niro, there are multiple mounts (upper/right, left/transmission side, and a lower “torque” mount). The exact steps and torque specs are different for each one, so I need one quick detail before I can give you the correct dealership-accurate procedure.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-4.0 hours (depends on which mount)

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚡ This is a plug-in hybrid: do not touch orange high-voltage cables/connectors.
• 🔥 Let the engine/exhaust cool fully before working near the firewall.
• 🧱 Support the vehicle with jack stands on the proper lift points—never rely on a jack alone.
• 🔩 When a mount is removed, the engine/transmission must be supported (to prevent sudden drop and damage).

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Torque wrench (10–200 Nm range)
• Socket set (8mm–19mm)
• Ratchet (3/8" drive)
• Breaker bar (3/8" or 1/2" drive)
• Extension set (3" and 6")
• Trim clip removal tool
• Flat-blade screwdriver
• Engine support bar (specialty)
• Rubber jack pad or wood block
• Flashlight

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Engine mount (correct position for your Niro) - Qty: 1
• Mount fastener kit (if required) - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to Park, and apply the parking brake.
• Chock the rear wheels with wheel chocks.
• Open the hood and remove any loose items.
• If you will be working near the starter/alternator area, disconnect the 12V battery negative terminal using the appropriate socket.
• Plan your support method: an engine support bar holds the engine from above; a jack with a wood block supports from below. (A support bar is safest for mount removal.)

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Confirm which mount you’re replacing

• Look from the top: the upper/right mount is typically near the passenger-side strut tower area.
• From below: the lower torque mount (also called a “dogbone”) connects the drivetrain to the subframe and limits rocking.
• From the driver-side area: there may be a transmission-side mount.
• Tell me which one and I’ll match the exact steps.

Step 2: Support the engine/transmission

• Use an engine support bar (specialty) to hold the engine from above per the tool instructions.
• If using a jack: place a wood block on the floor jack and lightly support the engine at a strong, flat area (do not crush the oil pan).
• Raise just enough to take the weight off the mount—do not lift the car.

Step 3: Gain access to the mount

• Use a trim clip removal tool and flat-blade screwdriver to remove any plastic covers/air ducting that blocks the mount.
• If the lower mount is being replaced, raise the front and support with jack stands, then remove the lower splash shield using the appropriate socket set (8mm–12mm).

Step 4: Remove the mount fasteners (sequence matters)

• Use the correct socket and a ratchet to loosen (but not fully remove) the mount-to-body bolts first.
• Then loosen the mount-to-engine/transmission bracket bolts.
• Remove bolts fully once the drivetrain is clearly supported.
• If bolts bind, adjust engine height slightly.

Step 5: Remove the mount and install the new one

• Wiggle the mount out by hand; use a flashlight to watch for harnesses/hoses.
• Set the new mount in place in the same orientation.
• Start all bolts by hand 3–5 turns to prevent cross-threading.

Step 6: Final tighten and torque

• Use a torque wrench to tighten bolts in the correct order.
• Important: I need the mount position (upper/right vs lower torque vs transmission-side) to give you the exact Torque to XX Nm (YY ft-lbs) values for your Niro.

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✅ After Repair

• Reinstall any covers/splash shield using the correct socket.
• Remove the support bar/jack slowly and watch for excessive engine movement.
• Start the engine and check for abnormal vibration, clunks, or warning lights.
• Test drive at low speed; recheck for any loosened fasteners or new noises.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $350-$1,100 (parts + labor, varies by mount)

DIY Cost: $80-$350 (parts only, varies by mount)

You Save: $270-$750 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-4.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

Reply with just this so I can give the exact mount-specific steps and the correct torque specs: Which mount are you replacing (upper/right, lower torque, or transmission-side)? Also, are you replacing just one or all mounts?

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