🔧 86 - Engine Mount Replacement

Your 86 uses two main engine mounts (left and right) that support the engine and isolate vibration. Replacing them involves safely supporting the engine, removing the mounts from the subframe and engine brackets, then reinstalling everything to spec.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 4-6 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support the engine before removing any mount fasteners.
• ⚠️ Never get under the car supported only by a jack; use jack stands.
• ⚠️ Let the exhaust and catalytic converter cool completely before working nearby.
• ⚠️ Keep hands clear when raising/lowering the engine; it can shift suddenly.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for mount replacement, but keep the key away from the car to prevent accidental cranking.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Wood block 2x6 in
• Socket set: 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, 19mm
• Ratchet (3/8 in drive)
• Breaker bar (1/2 in drive)
• Torque wrench (10-200 Nm range)
• Extensions (3 in, 6 in, 12 in)
• Universal joint wobble adapter (3/8 in)
• Trim clip remover
• Flat screwdriver
• Engine support bar (specialty)

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Left engine mount - Qty: 1
• Right engine mount - Qty: 1
• Engine mount hardware kit - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🅿️ Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
• Raise the front of your 86 with a floor jack and support it with jack stands at the approved front lift points.
• Plan how you’ll support the engine:
  • Use an engine support bar (specialty) across the fenders to hold the engine from above (an engine support bar is a beam that suspends the engine with chains/hooks).
  • If you don’t have one, you can support from below using a floor jack and a wood block 2x6 in under the oil pan area, but raise only enough to take the weight off the mounts.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the front under covers

• Use a trim clip remover and 10mm socket to remove the undertray/engine splash shields.
• Set the clips and bolts aside in groups so they go back in the same locations.

Step 2: Support the engine

• If using an engine support bar (specialty), set it up and tension it until the engine weight is supported.
• If using a jack, place the wood block 2x6 in on the floor jack pad and position it under the engine oil pan area.
• Raise the jack slowly until you just see the engine lift slightly. Lift only 2-3 mm.

Step 3: Create working room at the top (as needed)

• Remove the air intake ducting and airbox if it blocks access to the mount nuts.
• Use a flat screwdriver for hose clamps and a 10mm socket/12mm socket for airbox bolts.

Step 4: Remove the mount-to-subframe nuts (both sides)

• From underneath, locate the bottom of each engine mount where it attaches to the subframe.
• Use a 14mm socket, ratchet, and extensions to remove the mount-to-subframe nuts.

Step 5: Remove the mount-to-engine bracket nuts/bolts (both sides)

• From above and/or below, remove the fasteners that hold each mount to the engine-side bracket.
• Use a 14mm socket with a universal joint wobble adapter (3/8 in) and extensions as needed.
• If a fastener is tight, switch to a breaker bar (1/2 in drive).

Step 6: Raise the engine slightly to unload the mounts

• Use the floor jack (or adjust the engine support bar (specialty)) to raise the engine just enough to free the mounts.
• Watch for anything stretching (wiring, hoses). Stop immediately if something binds.

Step 7: Remove the old mounts

• Work one side at a time.
• Wiggle the mount out of the engine bay/subframe pocket by hand.
• If it’s stuck, lower/raise the engine a few millimeters using the floor jack to change the angle.

Step 8: Install the new mounts

• Place the new mount into position the same orientation as the old one.
• Start all mount fasteners by hand first to avoid cross-threading.

Step 9: Lower the engine onto the mounts and align

• Slowly lower the engine using the floor jack (or relax the engine support bar (specialty)) until the mount studs/holes align cleanly.
• If holes don’t line up, raise/lower in tiny amounts and gently shift the engine by hand.

Step 10: Tighten and torque mount fasteners

• Tighten all mount fasteners snug using a ratchet first.
• Final tighten with a torque wrench:
  • Engine mount fasteners (mount to bracket/subframe): Torque to 50 Nm (37 ft-lbs)
• Torque only after everything is aligned.

Step 11: Reinstall intake pieces and under covers

• Reinstall the airbox/ducting using a 10mm socket/12mm socket and tighten hose clamps with a flat screwdriver.
• Reinstall undertrays using a 10mm socket and trim clip remover.

Step 12: Lower the vehicle

• Raise the car slightly with the floor jack, remove the jack stands, then lower the car fully.

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✅ After Repair

• 🔎 Start the engine and let it idle. Listen for clunks or knocking that would indicate a mount not seated.
• With your foot on the brake, shift from Park to Reverse to Drive and feel for abnormal vibration or movement.
• Do a short test drive and re-check for any new noises over bumps.
• If any mount fasteners were hard to access, re-check their tightness after the test drive using a torque wrench.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $800-$1,400 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $200-$450 (parts only)

You Save: $350-$1,200 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 4-6 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.