How to Replace Engine Mounts on a 2016 Subaru Outback (Left & Right)
Step-by-step DIY instructions with required tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque specs
How to Replace Engine Mounts on a 2016 Subaru Outback (Left & Right)
Step-by-step DIY instructions with required tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque specs
🔧 Outback - Engine Mount Replacement
Engine mounts (also called insulators) hold the engine in place and absorb vibration. When they crack or collapse, you’ll feel extra shaking, clunks on acceleration/braking, or the engine may shift more than normal.
Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours
Assumption: replacing the left & right engine mounts (not the transmission mount).
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Support the engine before unbolting mounts; don’t rely on a jack alone.
- ⚠️ Use jack stands; never work under a car supported only by a floor jack.
- ⚠️ Keep hands clear when raising/lowering the engine; pinch hazard.
- ⚠️ Do not jack directly on the oil pan without a wood block; you can crack it.
- ⚠️ Let the exhaust cool fully; burns happen fast.
- ⚠️ Battery disconnect is recommended if you’ll be near the starter/positive cable: use a 10mm wrench and remove negative terminal first.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (pair, rated 2-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks (pair)
- Safety glasses
- Mechanic gloves
- Socket set (8mm-19mm)
- 14mm socket (deep)
- 17mm socket
- 19mm socket
- Ratchet (3/8")
- Breaker bar (1/2")
- Torque wrench (10-200 Nm range)
- Extensions (3", 6", 12")
- Universal joint socket adapter
- Trim clip remover
- Flathead screwdriver
- 10mm wrench
- Pry bar (medium)
- Wood block (2x4 or similar)
- Engine support bar (specialty)
- Threadlocker (medium strength)
- Work light
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Left engine mount - Qty: 1
- Right engine mount - Qty: 1
- Engine mount self-locking nuts/fastener kit - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
- Open the hood and remove any loose items from the engine bay.
- If disconnecting the battery: use a 10mm wrench and remove the negative terminal first.
- Plan how you will support the engine:
- Engine support bar (specialty) spans the fenders and holds the engine from above.
- If using a floor jack: place a wood block on the jack pad to spread the load.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Raise and support the Outback
- Use a floor jack to lift the front at the center jacking point.
- Set the vehicle onto jack stands at the proper pinch weld/support points.
- Give the car a firm push test to confirm it’s stable.
Step 2: Remove the lower engine splash shield
- Use a trim clip remover and flathead screwdriver to remove plastic clips.
- Use an 8mm socket or 10mm socket (varies by fastener) to remove bolts.
- Set the shield and fasteners aside in a tray.
Step 3: Support the engine
- Preferred: Install the engine support bar (specialty) per its instructions and put light tension on the engine.
- Alternate: Position the floor jack with a wood block under the engine’s lower support area and raise until it just contacts and supports the engine.
- Only lift enough to remove mount tension.
Step 4: Remove the pitch stopper (top dogbone mount)
- The pitch stopper is the small “dogbone” link on top that limits engine rocking.
- Use a 14mm socket and ratchet to remove the two bolts.
- Set it aside.
- Torque on install: Torque to 50 Nm (37 ft-lbs)
Step 5: Loosen the engine mount-to-subframe nuts (both sides)
- From underneath, locate the mount studs going down into the front subframe/crossmember.
- Use a 14mm deep socket with an extension to loosen (do not fully remove yet).
Step 6: Remove the engine mount-to-engine bracket nuts/bolts (as equipped)
- On each side, access the mount fasteners that attach the mount to the engine-side bracket.
- Use a 14mm socket, extensions, and a universal joint socket adapter as needed.
- Remove the fasteners and keep left/right hardware separated.
Step 7: Lift the engine slightly to free the mounts
- Use the floor jack (or tighten the engine support bar) to raise the engine slowly.
- Watch clearance at the radiator fans, exhaust, and hoses while lifting.
- Stop as soon as the mount studs clear the subframe holes.
Step 8: Remove the old engine mounts
- Finish removing the mount-to-subframe nuts using a 14mm deep socket.
- Work each mount out. Use a pry bar gently if needed (don’t pry on aluminum surfaces).
- Compare old vs new mounts so the orientation matches.
Step 9: Install the new engine mounts (left & right)
- Position the new mounts in the same orientation as the originals.
- Lower/raise the engine slightly using the floor jack so the studs line up with the subframe holes.
- Start all nuts/bolts by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
Step 10: Tighten and torque the mount fasteners
- Snug all mount fasteners using a ratchet before final torque.
- Final tighten using a torque wrench:
- Engine mount-to-subframe nuts: Torque to 50 Nm (37 ft-lbs)
- Engine mount-to-engine bracket fasteners: Torque to 50 Nm (37 ft-lbs)
- If any fasteners call for it, apply threadlocker (medium strength) to clean threads before torquing.
Step 11: Reinstall the pitch stopper
- Install the pitch stopper and start both bolts by hand.
- Use a 14mm socket and torque wrench.
- Torque: Torque to 50 Nm (37 ft-lbs)
Step 12: Reinstall the splash shield and lower the vehicle
- Reinstall the shield using the trim clip remover, 8mm socket, and 10mm socket as needed.
- Lower the vehicle off the jack stands using the floor jack.
Step 13: Reconnect the battery (if disconnected)
- Use a 10mm wrench to reconnect the negative terminal.
✅ After Repair
- Start the engine and let it idle. Listen for new noises and watch for excessive engine movement.
- With the brake firmly held, shift from Park to Reverse to Drive and feel for clunks (keep RPM low).
- Take a short road test and re-check for vibrations at idle and during light acceleration.
- Recheck the mount fasteners for tightness after 1-2 days of driving.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: ₹18,000-₹40,000 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: ₹6,000-₹18,000 (parts only)
You Save: ₹12,000-₹22,000 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run ₹1,000-₹2,500/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.


















