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2016 Subaru Outback
2016 Subaru Outback
2.5i - Flat 4 2.5L
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How To: Subaru Legacy Outback Motor Mount Replacement Step-by-Step

How To: Subaru Legacy Outback Motor Mount Replacement Step-by-Step

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2 Ton
2 Ton
Floor Jack
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How to Replace Engine Mounts on a 2016 Subaru Outback (Left & Right)

Step-by-step DIY instructions with required tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque specs

How to Replace Engine Mounts on a 2016 Subaru Outback (Left & Right)

Step-by-step DIY instructions with required tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque specs

Orion
Orion

🔧 Outback - Engine Mount Replacement

Engine mounts (also called insulators) hold the engine in place and absorb vibration. When they crack or collapse, you’ll feel extra shaking, clunks on acceleration/braking, or the engine may shift more than normal.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours

Assumption: replacing the left & right engine mounts (not the transmission mount).


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Support the engine before unbolting mounts; don’t rely on a jack alone.
  • ⚠️ Use jack stands; never work under a car supported only by a floor jack.
  • ⚠️ Keep hands clear when raising/lowering the engine; pinch hazard.
  • ⚠️ Do not jack directly on the oil pan without a wood block; you can crack it.
  • ⚠️ Let the exhaust cool fully; burns happen fast.
  • ⚠️ Battery disconnect is recommended if you’ll be near the starter/positive cable: use a 10mm wrench and remove negative terminal first.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (pair, rated 2-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks (pair)
  • Safety glasses
  • Mechanic gloves
  • Socket set (8mm-19mm)
  • 14mm socket (deep)
  • 17mm socket
  • 19mm socket
  • Ratchet (3/8")
  • Breaker bar (1/2")
  • Torque wrench (10-200 Nm range)
  • Extensions (3", 6", 12")
  • Universal joint socket adapter
  • Trim clip remover
  • Flathead screwdriver
  • 10mm wrench
  • Pry bar (medium)
  • Wood block (2x4 or similar)
  • Engine support bar (specialty)
  • Threadlocker (medium strength)
  • Work light

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Left engine mount - Qty: 1
  • Right engine mount - Qty: 1
  • Engine mount self-locking nuts/fastener kit - Qty: 1

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
  • Open the hood and remove any loose items from the engine bay.
  • If disconnecting the battery: use a 10mm wrench and remove the negative terminal first.
  • Plan how you will support the engine:
    • Engine support bar (specialty) spans the fenders and holds the engine from above.
    • If using a floor jack: place a wood block on the jack pad to spread the load.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise and support the Outback

  • Use a floor jack to lift the front at the center jacking point.
  • Set the vehicle onto jack stands at the proper pinch weld/support points.
  • Give the car a firm push test to confirm it’s stable.

Step 2: Remove the lower engine splash shield

  • Use a trim clip remover and flathead screwdriver to remove plastic clips.
  • Use an 8mm socket or 10mm socket (varies by fastener) to remove bolts.
  • Set the shield and fasteners aside in a tray.

Step 3: Support the engine

  • Preferred: Install the engine support bar (specialty) per its instructions and put light tension on the engine.
  • Alternate: Position the floor jack with a wood block under the engine’s lower support area and raise until it just contacts and supports the engine.
  • Only lift enough to remove mount tension.

Step 4: Remove the pitch stopper (top dogbone mount)

  • The pitch stopper is the small “dogbone” link on top that limits engine rocking.
  • Use a 14mm socket and ratchet to remove the two bolts.
  • Set it aside.
  • Torque on install: Torque to 50 Nm (37 ft-lbs)

Step 5: Loosen the engine mount-to-subframe nuts (both sides)

  • From underneath, locate the mount studs going down into the front subframe/crossmember.
  • Use a 14mm deep socket with an extension to loosen (do not fully remove yet).

Step 6: Remove the engine mount-to-engine bracket nuts/bolts (as equipped)

  • On each side, access the mount fasteners that attach the mount to the engine-side bracket.
  • Use a 14mm socket, extensions, and a universal joint socket adapter as needed.
  • Remove the fasteners and keep left/right hardware separated.

Step 7: Lift the engine slightly to free the mounts

  • Use the floor jack (or tighten the engine support bar) to raise the engine slowly.
  • Watch clearance at the radiator fans, exhaust, and hoses while lifting.
  • Stop as soon as the mount studs clear the subframe holes.

Step 8: Remove the old engine mounts

  • Finish removing the mount-to-subframe nuts using a 14mm deep socket.
  • Work each mount out. Use a pry bar gently if needed (don’t pry on aluminum surfaces).
  • Compare old vs new mounts so the orientation matches.

Step 9: Install the new engine mounts (left & right)

  • Position the new mounts in the same orientation as the originals.
  • Lower/raise the engine slightly using the floor jack so the studs line up with the subframe holes.
  • Start all nuts/bolts by hand first to avoid cross-threading.

Step 10: Tighten and torque the mount fasteners

  • Snug all mount fasteners using a ratchet before final torque.
  • Final tighten using a torque wrench:
    • Engine mount-to-subframe nuts: Torque to 50 Nm (37 ft-lbs)
    • Engine mount-to-engine bracket fasteners: Torque to 50 Nm (37 ft-lbs)
  • If any fasteners call for it, apply threadlocker (medium strength) to clean threads before torquing.

Step 11: Reinstall the pitch stopper

  • Install the pitch stopper and start both bolts by hand.
  • Use a 14mm socket and torque wrench.
  • Torque: Torque to 50 Nm (37 ft-lbs)

Step 12: Reinstall the splash shield and lower the vehicle

  • Reinstall the shield using the trim clip remover, 8mm socket, and 10mm socket as needed.
  • Lower the vehicle off the jack stands using the floor jack.

Step 13: Reconnect the battery (if disconnected)

  • Use a 10mm wrench to reconnect the negative terminal.

✅ After Repair

  • Start the engine and let it idle. Listen for new noises and watch for excessive engine movement.
  • With the brake firmly held, shift from Park to Reverse to Drive and feel for clunks (keep RPM low).
  • Take a short road test and re-check for vibrations at idle and during light acceleration.
  • Recheck the mount fasteners for tightness after 1-2 days of driving.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: ₹18,000-₹40,000 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: ₹6,000-₹18,000 (parts only)

You Save: ₹12,000-₹22,000 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run ₹1,000-₹2,500/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours.


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