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2016 Subaru Forester
2016 Subaru Forester
2.0XT Touring - Flat 4 2.0L
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How to remove engine mount bolts Subaru

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How to Replace Engine Mounts on a 2016 Subaru Forester (Left & Right)

Step-by-step DIY engine mount replacement with required tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque specs

How to Replace Engine Mounts on a 2016 Subaru Forester (Left & Right)

Step-by-step DIY engine mount replacement with required tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque specs

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đź”§ Forester - Engine Mount Replacement

Worn engine mounts let the engine move too much, which can cause clunks, vibration, and harsh shifting/“thump” on throttle changes. On your Forester, you’ll support the engine safely, remove the left and right engine mounts, and install new mounts in the same positions.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours

Assumption: Replacing both left and right engine mounts (not the transmission mount).


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • 🛑 Support the vehicle with jack stands on solid points; never rely on a floor jack.
  • 🛑 Support the engine before removing mount hardware; an unsupported engine can drop and damage hoses/wiring.
  • 🛑 Let the exhaust/turbo area cool fully; burns happen fast near the turbocharger.
  • 🛑 Keep hands clear while raising/lowering the engine with the jack.
  • 🛑 Battery: Disconnecting the negative cable is recommended to reduce accidental short risk while working near the starter/engine harness.

đź”§ Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Safety glasses
  • Mechanic gloves
  • Wheel chocks
  • Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Wood block (2x6 or similar, 12-18 in long)
  • 10mm socket
  • 12mm socket
  • 14mm socket
  • 17mm socket
  • 19mm socket
  • 3/8 in ratchet
  • 1/2 in breaker bar
  • Socket extension set (3 in, 6 in, 12 in)
  • Universal swivel joint
  • Torque wrench (10-200 ft-lb range)
  • Flat-blade screwdriver
  • Hose clamp pliers
  • Trim clip removal tool
  • Pry bar (12-18 in)
  • Penetrating oil
  • Paint marker
  • Work light

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Left engine mount - Qty: 1
  • Right engine mount - Qty: 1
  • Engine mount self-locking nuts - Qty: 4

đź“‹ Before You Begin

  • 🅿️ Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks at the rear wheels.
  • 🔋 Open the hood and disconnect the battery negative cable using a 10mm socket.
  • 🛠️ Raise the front and support it on jack stands at the proper front support points.
  • đź’ˇ Spray mount fasteners with penetrating oil and let it soak while you set up.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the lower engine undercover

  • Use a trim clip removal tool to pop out the plastic clips.
  • Use a 12mm socket to remove any bolts holding the undercover, then set it aside.

Step 2: Remove the top-mount intercooler (for access)

  • Intercooler = aluminum “radiator” on top of engine.
  • Use a flat-blade screwdriver to loosen the charge-pipe hose clamps.
  • Use hose clamp pliers to release any spring clamps on small hoses.
  • Use a 12mm socket to remove the intercooler mounting bolts.
  • Lift the intercooler up and out carefully (don’t tear the rubber couplers).

Step 3: Support the engine safely

  • Wood block spreads load to protect the oil pan.
  • Place the wood block on the floor jack saddle.
  • Position it under the engine oil pan area and raise the jack until it just contacts and slightly supports the engine (do not lift the car).
  • Use a paint marker to mark mount orientation/alignment points you can see.

Step 4: Loosen mount-to-subframe nuts (both sides)

  • From underneath, locate the two engine mount studs/nuts (one per side) going down into the front subframe.
  • Use a 17mm socket and breaker bar to loosen/remove the nuts.
  • If needed, use a work light and a socket extension set for better reach.
  • When reinstalling: Torque to 50 N·m (37 ft-lb).

Step 5: Remove the right engine mount

  • From above and below, locate the right mount where it bolts to the engine bracket and sits on the subframe.
  • Use a 14mm socket, socket extension set, and universal swivel joint to remove the mount-to-bracket bolts.
  • Slowly raise the engine a small amount using the floor jack so the mount can slide out. Go in tiny moves and watch hoses/wiring.
  • Use a pry bar gently only if the mount is stuck in place.
  • When reinstalling mount-to-bracket bolts: Torque to 70 N·m (52 ft-lb).

Step 6: Remove the left engine mount

  • Repeat the same process on the left side.
  • Use a 14mm socket with the socket extension set and universal swivel joint to remove mount-to-bracket bolts.
  • Adjust engine height with the floor jack to create enough clearance to remove the mount.
  • When reinstalling mount-to-bracket bolts: Torque to 70 N·m (52 ft-lb).

Step 7: Install the new mounts and align the engine

  • Set each new mount into position exactly like the old one (match your paint marker reference).
  • Start mount-to-bracket bolts by hand first to avoid cross-threading, then snug using a 14mm socket.
  • Lower/raise the engine slightly using the floor jack until the mount studs drop cleanly through the subframe holes.
  • Install new self-locking nuts on the studs by hand, then snug with a 17mm socket.

Step 8: Final torque of mount fasteners

  • With the engine sitting naturally on the mounts (jack just touching, not lifting), torque the mount-to-bracket bolts using a torque wrench: Torque to 70 N·m (52 ft-lb).
  • Torque the mount-to-subframe nuts using a torque wrench: Torque to 50 N·m (37 ft-lb).
  • Lower the floor jack fully and remove it from under the engine.

Step 9: Reinstall the intercooler and undercover

  • Reinstall the intercooler and start the bolts by hand, then tighten using a 12mm socket.
  • Tighten the hose clamps using a flat-blade screwdriver.
  • Reinstall the lower undercover using the trim clip removal tool and 12mm socket.
  • Reconnect the battery negative cable using a 10mm socket.

âś… After Repair

  • 🔍 Start the engine and let it idle. Watch for excessive engine movement, new noises, or warning lights.
  • 🔍 Listen for boost/air leaks (hissing) around the intercooler hoses; re-tighten clamps with a flat-blade screwdriver if needed.
  • đźš— Test drive gently first. Check for clunks on takeoff and on/off throttle transitions.
  • đź§° Recheck visible fasteners after the first drive; confirm nothing shifted.

đź’° DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $800-$1,500 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $200-$600 (parts only)

You Save: $600-$900 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-6 hours.


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