🔧 Versa - Engine Mount Replacement

Engine mounts hold your A4—(correction) your Versa’s engine/transmission in place and absorb vibration. When a mount tears or collapses, you’ll feel clunks on shifts, extra vibration at idle, and movement when you rev or shift into Drive/Reverse.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours

Assumption: your Versa uses the common 3–4 mount layout (right engine mount, left trans mount, and at least one lower “torque” mount); exact torque specs can vary by bracket—verify with Nissan service info for your exact fastener set.

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Never get under the car supported only by a jack—use jack stands.
• ⚠️ Support the engine before loosening mounts. If a mount is removed without support, the engine can drop and damage hoses, wiring, the exhaust, or the CVT case.
• ⚠️ Keep hands clear when raising/lowering the engine. Small movements can pinch fingers.
• ⚠️ Let the exhaust cool completely before working near lower mounts.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is recommended if you’ll be near the starter/major wiring—use a 10mm wrench on the negative terminal.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (pair, rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Wood block (2x6 or similar)
• Socket set 8mm-19mm
• Deep socket set 13mm-19mm
• Ratchet 3/8" drive
• Breaker bar 1/2" drive
• Torque wrench 10-200 Nm
• Extension set 3", 6", 12"
• Universal joint adapter 3/8"
• Wrench set 10mm-19mm
• Trim clip tool
• Flathead screwdriver
• Needle-nose pliers
• Engine support bar (specialty)
• Penetrating oil
• Paint marker

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Right-side engine mount - Qty: 1
• Left-side transmission mount - Qty: 1
• Lower torque mount (dogbone mount) - Qty: 1
• Mount fastener set (nuts/bolts) - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
• Open the hood and remove any plastic engine cover (if equipped) using a trim clip tool.
• Disconnect the negative battery terminal using a 10mm wrench if you’ll work near wiring.
• Plan how you’ll support the engine:
  • Engine support bar (preferred) spans the fenders and holds the engine from above.
  • A floor jack with a wood block under the oil pan can work, but lift gently—do not crush the pan.
• Spray penetrating oil on visible mount nuts/bolts and let it soak 10–15 minutes.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Support the engine safely

• If using an engine support bar (specialty), install it and tension it just enough to hold the engine.
• If using a floor jack, place a wood block on the jack pad and raise the jack until it just contacts the oil pan and lightly supports the engine.
• Support it—don’t lift the car by the engine.

Step 2: Raise the front of the car (for lower mount access)

• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) at the front center jack point and raise the car.
• Set the car onto jack stands (pair, rated 3-ton minimum) at the pinch welds/subframe points.
• Shake the car lightly to confirm it’s stable before going underneath.

Step 3: Replace the lower torque mount (dogbone mount)

• Locate the lower mount (usually at the subframe connecting to the engine/trans bracket).
• Use a paint marker to mark the mount orientation.
• Remove the mount bolts using a ratchet 3/8" drive with the correct socket set 8mm-19mm and extension set.
• If tight, use a breaker bar 1/2" drive with a matching socket.
• Install the new mount in the same orientation and hand-thread all bolts first.
• Tighten using a torque wrench 10-200 Nm: Torque to 65 Nm (48 ft-lbs) for typical lower mount-to-subframe and mount-to-bracket bolts.

Step 4: Replace the right-side engine mount (passenger-side mount)

• From the top, remove any air ducting or resonator that blocks access using a flathead screwdriver and needle-nose pliers for hose clamps/clips.
• Locate the right-side mount at the timing cover side near the fender.
• Remove the mount-to-body nuts/bolts using a ratchet 3/8" drive, deep socket set 13mm-19mm, and extension set.
• Remove the mount-to-engine bracket bolts using a ratchet 3/8" drive and universal joint adapter 3/8" if needed for angle.
• Raise or lower the engine slightly with the engine support bar (specialty) or floor jack to relieve bolt tension, then remove the mount.
• Install the new mount, start all fasteners by hand, then tighten with a torque wrench 10-200 Nm:
  • Torque to 55 Nm (41 ft-lbs) for mount-to-body fasteners (typical range).
  • Torque to 65 Nm (48 ft-lbs) for mount-to-engine bracket fasteners (typical range).
• If bolts don’t thread easily, realign engine height.

Step 5: Replace the left-side transmission mount (driver-side mount)

• Support the transmission side by keeping the engine support in place (the engine and CVT move together on mounts).
• Remove any components blocking access (battery/air box area may restrict access) using a 10mm socket and trim clip tool as needed.
• Remove the mount-to-body fasteners using a ratchet 3/8" drive and deep socket set 13mm-19mm.
• Remove mount-to-trans bracket fasteners using a ratchet 3/8" drive with extension set.
• Install the new mount and hand-thread all fasteners first.
• Tighten using a torque wrench 10-200 Nm:
  • Torque to 55 Nm (41 ft-lbs) for mount-to-body fasteners (typical range).
  • Torque to 65 Nm (48 ft-lbs) for mount-to-bracket fasteners (typical range).

Step 6: Final tighten with the engine at “neutral” position

• With all mounts installed and bolts snug, gently lower/relax the engine support bar (specialty) or floor jack so the engine rests naturally on the new mounts.
• Re-check and torque all mount fasteners again using a torque wrench 10-200 Nm to the values used above.
• This helps prevent pre-loading a mount.

Step 7: Reassemble removed components

• Reinstall air ducting, resonator, battery/air box parts (if removed) using the socket set 8mm-19mm and flathead screwdriver.
• Reconnect the battery negative terminal using a 10mm wrench.

Step 8: Lower the vehicle

• Raise the car slightly with the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum), remove the jack stands, then lower fully.
• Remove the wheel chocks.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and let it idle. Listen for clunks and watch for excessive engine movement.
• With your foot on the brake, shift through P-R-N-D and back, pausing 2 seconds each. You should feel smoother engagement.
• Test drive 10–15 minutes. Re-check for new vibrations, and re-check mount fasteners for tightness after the drive.
• If you removed the battery, reset the clock and radio presets if needed.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$1,100 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $120-$450 (parts only)

You Save: $330-$650 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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