🔧 GS - Engine Mount Replacement

Replacing the engine mounts on your GS restores proper engine support and reduces vibration, clunks, and drivetrain “thump” during shifts. The job involves safely supporting the engine, unbolting each mount, slightly lifting the engine, and swapping the mounts one side at a time.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours

Assumption: replacing both left and right engine mounts (not the transmission mount).

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• Work on a level surface and support the car with jack stands—never rely on a jack alone.
• Support the engine before loosening mounts. An unsupported engine can drop and damage wiring, hoses, and exhaust.
• Keep hands clear of pinch points while raising/lowering the engine.
• Let the exhaust cool fully before starting.
• If you remove any electrical connectors near the mount areas, disconnect the negative battery terminal with a 10mm socket.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Socket set: 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, 19mm
• Deep socket set: 14mm, 17mm, 19mm
• Ratchet (3/8" drive)
• Breaker bar (1/2" drive)
• Torque wrench (3/8" drive, 10–100 ft-lbs)
• Torque wrench (1/2" drive, 50–200 ft-lbs)
• Extensions: 3", 6", 12"
• Universal swivel joint (3/8" drive)
• Trim clip removal tool
• Flat-blade screwdriver
• Pry bar (12")
• Wood block (2x6" about 12" long)
• Work light

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Left engine mount - Qty: 1
• Right engine mount - Qty: 1
• Engine undercover fastener clips - Qty: 1 set

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Raise the front of the car with a floor jack and support it securely on jack stands at the proper front lift/support points.
• Remove the lower engine undercover (splash shield). Use a trim clip removal tool and 10mm socket as needed.
• Set your wood block on the floor jack pad—this spreads load so you don’t dent the oil pan area when supporting the engine.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Support the engine safely

• Position the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) with the wood block (2x6") under the engine support area (use the wood to distribute load).
• Raise the jack just until it contacts and lightly supports the engine—do not lift yet.
• A “through-bolt” is the long bolt that passes through the mount.

Step 2: Create access to the mounts

• Remove remaining lower covers if equipped using a 10mm socket and trim clip removal tool.
• If any brackets or small shields block mount fasteners, remove them using a 12mm socket or 14mm socket (varies by position).

Step 3: Loosen (don’t remove) mount fasteners first

• On one mount (start with the easier-access side), locate the mount-to-subframe bolts/nuts and the mount-to-engine-bracket fasteners.
• Use a breaker bar (1/2" drive) with the correct 14mm/17mm/19mm socket to crack them loose.
• Leave all fasteners threaded a few turns. This keeps the engine aligned while you set up the lift.

Step 4: Remove the mount through-bolt

• Support the engine slightly more with the floor jack until you see the mount unload (it may relax a few millimeters).
• Remove the mount through-bolt using a ratchet (3/8" drive), extensions, and the correct 17mm or 19mm socket.
• If the bolt binds, raise/lower the engine slightly with the floor jack to relieve tension, then continue.

Step 5: Remove mount-to-subframe fasteners

• Remove the mount base nuts/bolts using a ratchet (3/8" drive) and the correct 14mm/17mm socket.
• Keep hardware organized by side.

Step 6: Lift engine slightly and extract the mount

• Slowly raise the engine with the floor jack just enough to create clearance to slide the mount out.
• Use a pry bar (12") gently if needed to guide the mount free.
• Do not overstretch hoses or wiring—lift only as much as required.

Step 7: Install the new mount (same side)

• Position the new mount in the same orientation as the old one.
• Hand-thread the mount-to-subframe nuts/bolts first using the correct 14mm/17mm socket.
• Lower/raise the engine slightly with the floor jack until the through-bolt slides in smoothly (no hammering).
• Install the through-bolt by hand, then snug it with a ratchet.

Step 8: Tighten and torque fasteners

• With the mount fully seated and bolts started, tighten all mount fasteners evenly using a ratchet.
• Final-tighten using a torque wrench: Torque to Lexus factory specifications for your GS engine mount fasteners.
• Do not torque while the engine is twisted.

Step 9: Repeat for the other engine mount

• Move to the opposite side and repeat Steps 3–8.
• Keep the engine supported the entire time with the floor jack and wood block.

Step 10: Reinstall covers and lower the car

• Reinstall any brackets/shields removed using a 12mm socket or 14mm socket.
• Reinstall the engine undercover using a 10mm socket and new clips as needed.
• Lower the car safely from the jack stands using the floor jack.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and let it idle. Listen for knocking/clunking and watch for excessive engine movement.
• Shift through R and D with your foot firmly on the brake. The engine should no longer “thump” excessively.
• Test drive and check for new vibrations. Recheck for any loose undercover hardware afterward.
• If the steering wheel is off-center or you hear a new exhaust rattle, recheck mount alignment and nearby brackets/heat shields.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $700-$1,400 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $200-$600 (parts only)

You Save: $500-$800 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-6 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.