🔧 Sedona - Engine Mount Replacement

Engine mounts hold the engine/transmission in place and absorb vibration. Worn mounts can cause clunks on acceleration/braking, excess vibration at idle, and shifting “thumps.” You’ll support the engine safely, then replace mounts one at a time so the powertrain stays aligned.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours

Assumption: replacing all main mounts (right, left, front, rear) one-by-one.

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🧯 Support the engine before removing any mount; never let it hang by hoses or wiring.
• 🧤 Use jack stands; never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack.
• 🔥 Let the engine cool; mounts sit near hot exhaust components.
• ⚡ Disconnect the negative battery cable before working near the battery/positive cable area.
• 🧱 If using a floor jack under the oil pan, always use a wood block to spread the load.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Wood block (2x6 or 2x8)
• Engine support bar (specialty)
• Metric socket set 10mm-19mm
• Metric wrench set 10mm-19mm
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• 1/2" drive torque wrench (20-200 ft-lbs)
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 3/8" drive torque wrench (10-80 ft-lbs)
• Socket extensions (3", 6", 12")
• Universal wobble socket adapter
• Trim clip removal tool
• Flathead screwdriver
• Phillips screwdriver
• Pry bar (12"-18")
• Paint marker
• Work light

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Right (passenger-side) engine mount - Qty: 1
• Left (driver-side) transmission mount - Qty: 1
• Front roll stopper mount - Qty: 1
• Rear roll stopper mount - Qty: 1
• Engine mount bracket bolts/nuts kit - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🅿️ Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
• 🔋 Disconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket.
• 🔎 Take a photo of each mount/bracket area before removal to help routing of hoses and wiring.
• 🧰 If you have an engine support bar (specialty), plan to use it; it supports the engine from above and is the safest method.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove top covers and gain access

• Remove the engine cover (if equipped) by lifting it straight up by hand.
• Remove the air intake duct/air box as needed using a flathead screwdriver (hose clamp) and 10mm socket (air box bolts).
• Set hardware aside in labeled piles. Label bolts by location.

Step 2: Support the engine safely

• Best method: Install the engine support bar (specialty) across the strut towers and tension it to hold the engine.
• Alternate method: Place a wood block (2x6 or 2x8) on the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) and lightly support the engine from underneath at the oil pan area.
• Raise only until you see the engine weight just start to lift—do not deform the pan.
• Mark the mount-to-bracket position with a paint marker to help realignment.

Step 3: Replace the right (passenger-side) engine mount

• Locate the right mount near the passenger-side of the engine bay.
• Remove any interfering brackets/reservoir fasteners using a 10mm socket and 12mm socket.
• Remove the mount-to-body nuts/bolts using a 14mm socket and breaker bar.
• Remove the mount-to-engine bracket bolts using a 14mm socket and extensions (3", 6").
• Adjust engine height slightly with the engine support bar (specialty) or floor jack so bolts slide out without binding.
• Install the new mount finger-tight first, then tighten fasteners using a torque wrench to Torque to OEM Kia specification.

Step 4: Replace the left (driver-side) transmission mount

• Remove the battery hold-down and battery using a 10mm socket and 12mm socket.
• Remove the battery tray/ECU bracket area as needed using a 10mm socket and 12mm socket.
• Locate the transmission mount under/near the tray area.
• Remove mount fasteners using a 14mm socket and 17mm socket with extensions (6", 12").
• Use a pry bar (12"-18") gently only if needed to relieve tension and align bolt holes.
• Install the new mount and tighten using a torque wrench to Torque to OEM Kia specification.

Step 5: Lift and support the front of the van

• Lift the front using a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) at the proper front jacking point.
• Set the vehicle onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) and verify stability.
• Remove any lower splash shield(s) using a trim clip removal tool, Phillips screwdriver, and 10mm socket.

Step 6: Replace the front roll stopper mount

• Locate the front roll stopper (a “torque strut” style mount that limits engine rocking) near the front subframe area.
• Support the engine (keep slight load on the support) so the mount bolts are not in a bind.
• Remove the mount bolts using a 14mm socket and 17mm socket with a breaker bar.
• Install the new mount finger-tight, then tighten with a torque wrench to Torque to OEM Kia specification.

Step 7: Replace the rear roll stopper mount

• Locate the rear roll stopper on the rear side of the engine/subframe area (often tighter access).
• Use extensions (12") and a universal wobble socket adapter to reach bolts if needed.
• Remove fasteners using a 14mm socket and 17mm socket.
• Install the new mount and tighten with a torque wrench to Torque to OEM Kia specification.

Step 8: Reinstall trays, battery, intake, and covers

• Reinstall splash shields using a 10mm socket, Phillips screwdriver, and trim clip removal tool.
• Reinstall the battery tray and any brackets using a 10mm socket and 12mm socket, then tighten with a torque wrench to Torque to OEM Kia specification.
• Reinstall the battery and hold-down using a 10mm socket and 12mm socket.
• Reinstall the intake components using a flathead screwdriver and 10mm socket.
• Reconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket.

Step 9: Settle the mounts (important)

• With the engine supported normally (no jack pressure), start the engine and let it idle for 30–60 seconds.
• Shift through P-R-N-D (foot on brake) to let the powertrain settle.
• Shut off the engine and recheck visible mount fasteners for seating/alignment using a work light.

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✅ After Repair

• 🧪 Road test: listen for clunks on acceleration/braking and check for new vibrations at idle.
• 🔍 Recheck all mount fasteners after the test drive using a torque wrench to Torque to OEM Kia specification.
• 🛑 If you feel harsh vibration immediately, stop and re-check mount alignment and that no hoses/wiring are pulled tight.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $600-$1,400 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $180-$650 (parts only)

You Save: $420-$750 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-6 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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