🔧 Grand Cherokee - Engine Mount Replacement

Your Grand Cherokee’s engine mounts hold the engine in position and absorb vibration. When mounts crack or collapse, you’ll feel clunks on acceleration/braking, extra vibration at idle, or see the engine “rock” when shifting.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support the engine before loosening mounts; an unsupported engine can drop and damage wiring, exhaust, or radiator parts.
• ⚠️ Work on level ground and use jack stands; never rely on a floor jack alone.
• ⚠️ Keep hands clear when raising/lowering the engine; move slowly and watch for hoses stretching.
• ⚠️ Let the exhaust cool fully; mounts sit near hot exhaust components.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is recommended: use a 10mm socket to remove the negative terminal to prevent accidental shorting near the starter wiring.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Wheel chocks
• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wood block (2x6 in. minimum)
• Torque wrench (20-250 ft-lbs range)
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• Socket set 8mm-21mm
• Wrench set 10mm-21mm
• Extension set 3" / 6" / 12"
• Universal joint adapter
• Trim clip removal tool
• Flathead screwdriver
• Pry bar (12"-18")
• Penetrating oil
• Paint marker
• Work light

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Engine mount (left) - Qty: 1
• Engine mount (right) - Qty: 1
• Engine mount fastener kit - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
• Place wheel chocks behind the rear tires.
• Disconnect the battery negative cable using a 10mm socket.
• Raise the front and support the frame with jack stands.
• Spray mount and bracket fasteners with penetrating oil and let it soak 10 minutes.
• Replace mounts in pairs for best results.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove lower shields (if equipped)

• Use a trim clip removal tool and socket set 8mm-13mm to remove any skid plate/lower splash shield fasteners.
• Set the panels and hardware aside in order.

Step 2: Support the engine safely

• Place a wood block (2x6 in. minimum) on the floor jack pad.
• Position the jack under the engine oil pan area and raise until the wood just contacts and lightly supports the engine.
• A wood block spreads the load so the jack does not dent the oil pan.

Step 3: Create working room (as needed)

• If access is tight at the top of a mount, remove the air inlet/airbox section using a flathead screwdriver for clamps and a socket set 8mm-10mm for bolts.
• Use a work light to clearly see the mount studs and bracket bolts.

Step 4: Mark mount/bracket positions

• Use a paint marker to mark the position of the mount to bracket/cradle so you can confirm it sits square during reassembly.

Step 5: Remove the mount-to-cradle through-bolt/nut (one side at a time)

• Use a breaker bar with the appropriate socket set 15mm-21mm and a matching wrench set 15mm-21mm to loosen the mount through-bolt and nut.
• Remove the bolt and nut fully, but keep the jack supporting the engine.
• If the bolt binds, raise engine 5-10 mm.

Step 6: Remove the mount-to-bracket fasteners

• Use a 3/8" drive ratchet, extensions, and a universal joint adapter with the appropriate socket set 13mm-18mm to remove the fasteners holding the mount to the engine bracket.
• If your mount uses a stud/nut design, remove the nut using a wrench set or socket set that fits.

Step 7: Lift the engine slightly to unload the mount

• Slowly raise the engine with the floor jack just enough to free the mount (usually about 10-25 mm).
• Watch the fan shroud area, radiator hoses, and exhaust flex areas while lifting.

Step 8: Remove the engine mount

• Wiggle the mount out by hand; use a pry bar (12"-18") carefully if needed.
• Do not pry on aluminum housings or thin sheet metal.

Step 9: Install the new mount

• Set the new mount into place in the same orientation as the old one.
• Start all mount-to-bracket fasteners by hand first using your socket set (prevents cross-threading).

Step 10: Align the mount and reinstall the through-bolt

• Lower or raise the engine slightly with the floor jack until the through-bolt slides in without force.
• Install the nut and snug it using the correct socket and wrench.
• Never hammer the bolt in; align instead.

Step 11: Torque fasteners (one side completed)

• Use a torque wrench to tighten mount fasteners.
• Torque to 88 Nm (65 ft-lbs) for the mount through-bolt/nut.
• Torque to 61 Nm (45 ft-lbs) for mount-to-bracket fasteners (typical M10/M12 mount hardware).
• If your replacement mount includes new fasteners, follow the torque spec supplied with the kit.

Step 12: Repeat on the other side

• Repeat Steps 5-11 for the opposite engine mount.
• Keep the engine supported the entire time using the floor jack and wood block.

Step 13: Reinstall intake parts and lower shields

• Reinstall the air inlet/airbox using a socket set 8mm-10mm and tighten clamps with a flathead screwdriver.
• Reinstall skid plates/splash shields using a socket set 8mm-13mm and the trim clip removal tool for clips.

Step 14: Lower the vehicle and reconnect battery

• Raise slightly with the floor jack, remove jack stands, and lower the vehicle.
• Reconnect the negative battery terminal using a 10mm socket.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and let it idle; verify vibration is reduced and there are no new noises.
• With your foot on the brake, shift between Reverse and Drive and listen for clunks (a small normal movement is OK; a hard knock is not).
• Test drive at low speed and re-check for any rattles or loose shields.
• Recheck mount fasteners for tightness after the first drive if you reused hardware.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $700-$1,400 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $180-$450 (parts only)

You Save: $520-$950 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-6 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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