🔧 QX60 - Engine Mount Replacement

Engine mounts hold the engine in place and absorb vibration. When they wear or tear, you may feel shaking at idle, clunks on takeoff, or extra vibration in the cabin. This job involves safely supporting the engine, removing the mount(s), and installing new ones without stressing hoses or wiring.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours

Assumption: replacing the common mount set (right engine mount + rear torque mount; left/trans mount similar).

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support the engine before removing any mount; never let it hang by hoses or wiring.
• ⚠️ Use jack stands; never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack.
• ⚠️ Keep hands clear when raising/lowering the engine with the jack.
• ⚠️ Let the exhaust cool completely before working near it.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is recommended if you’ll unplug sensors near the engine bay.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Wood block (2x4)
• Socket set 10mm-19mm
• Deep socket set 14mm-19mm
• Wrench set 10mm-19mm
• Ratchet 3/8"
• Breaker bar 1/2"
• Torque wrench 10-200 Nm
• Extension set 3/8"
• Universal joint adapter 3/8"
• Trim clip tool
• Flathead screwdriver
• Work light

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Right engine mount - Qty: 1
• Rear torque mount (rear engine mount) - Qty: 1
• Left transmission mount - Qty: 1
• Engine mount fastener set - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Open the hood and remove any loose items from the engine bay.
• If you’ll be working near electrical connectors, disconnect the battery: use a 10mm socket to remove the negative terminal and isolate it.
• Raise the front of the vehicle with a floor jack and support it securely on jack stands at proper lift points.
• Understand the support method: the wood block (2x4) spreads load so the jack doesn’t dent the oil pan. You will lift only enough to take weight off the mount.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the lower splash shield

• Use a trim clip tool and flathead screwdriver to remove plastic clips.
• Use a 10mm socket to remove any small bolts holding the under-cover.
• Set all clips/bolts aside in a tray. Mixing hardware is very common.

Step 2: Support the engine safely

• Place the wood block (2x4) on the pad of the floor jack.
• Position the jack under the engine oil pan area with the wood block between the jack and pan.
• Raise the jack slowly until you see the engine just “take weight” (you may see the mount relax slightly).
• Do not lift high—just enough to remove load from the mount. Small lifts make a big difference.

Step 3: Replace the right engine mount (passenger-side)

• From the top and/or wheel-well area, remove any air ducting or access panels as needed using a flathead screwdriver, 10mm socket, and trim clip tool.
• Locate the right engine mount between the engine bracket and the body/frame rail.
• Use a 14mm-17mm socket, ratchet, extensions, and a universal joint adapter to remove the mount-to-body fasteners.
• Use a 14mm-17mm socket to remove the mount-to-engine bracket fasteners.
• Raise or lower the engine slightly with the floor jack to create clearance, then remove the mount.
• Install the new mount in the same orientation. Hand-start all fasteners first to avoid cross-threading.
• Tighten fasteners evenly, then Torque to OEM specification using a torque wrench.

Step 4: Replace the rear torque mount (rear engine mount)

• From underneath, locate the rear torque mount near the rear of the engine/subframe area.
• Use a 14mm-19mm socket and breaker bar 1/2" to loosen the main through-bolt/nuts (these are often tight).
• Remove the mount bolts using a ratchet 3/8" and extensions.
• If the bolt binds, slightly raise/lower the engine with the floor jack until the bolt slides out smoothly.
• Install the new rear mount, hand-start all bolts, then tighten.
• Torque to OEM specification using a torque wrench.

Step 5: Replace the left transmission mount (if you’re doing all mounts)

• Keep the engine supported with the floor jack and wood block (2x4).
• Locate the transmission mount on the driver-side supporting the transmission to the body/subframe.
• Use a 14mm-19mm socket, ratchet, and extensions to remove mount fasteners.
• Adjust height slightly with the floor jack to relieve tension, remove the mount, then install the new one.
• Torque to OEM specification using a torque wrench.

Step 6: Reinstall covers and lower the vehicle

• Reinstall any ducts/panels using a 10mm socket, trim clip tool, and flathead screwdriver.
• Reinstall the splash shield using the 10mm socket and clips.
• Slowly lower the engine off the jack using the floor jack.
• Remove jack stands and lower the vehicle to the ground with the floor jack.

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✅ After Repair

• Reconnect the battery negative terminal (if disconnected) using a 10mm socket.
• Start the engine and let it idle in Park; listen for clunks and watch for excessive engine movement.
• With your foot on the brake, shift through R and D briefly; feel for improved smoothness.
• Test drive gently and recheck for any new noises over bumps and on takeoff.
• After the test drive, recheck visible mount fasteners for security and look for anything rubbing.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $600-$1,400 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $180-$650 (parts only)

You Save: $420-$750 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-6 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.