🔧 QX50 - Engine Mount Replacement

Worn engine mounts let the engine shift too much, which can cause vibration at idle, clunks on acceleration/braking, and harsh shifting feel. On your QX50, you’ll support the engine, remove each mount one side at a time, then reinstall and align everything so the engine sits naturally.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours

Assumption: torque specs can vary by fastener/location; verify with the factory manual if possible.

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support the engine before loosening mounts; never let it “hang” on hoses or wiring.
• ⚠️ Work on level ground and use jack stands; never rely on a floor jack alone.
• ⚠️ Keep hands clear when raising/lowering the engine with the jack.
• ⚠️ Do not jack directly on the oil pan without a wood block to spread the load.
• ⚠️ Let the exhaust cool completely; mounts are close to hot components.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is recommended if you’ll remove the air intake near electrical connectors.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Wood block (2x6 in)
• Metric socket set 10mm-19mm
• Metric wrench set 10mm-19mm
• Ratchet
• Breaker bar 1/2 in
• Torque wrench 20-200 Nm
• Extension set (3 in, 6 in, 12 in)
• Wobble extension 3/8 in
• Pry bar 12 in
• Trim clip tool
• Flathead screwdriver
• Flashlight
• Fender cover

Wobble extension: a slightly flexible extension for tight angles.

Fender cover: a thick mat to protect paint while you lean in.

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Right engine mount - Qty: 1
• Left engine mount - Qty: 1
• Engine mount hardware kit - Qty: 1
• Medium-strength threadlocker (blue) - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks at the rear wheels.
• Open the hood and install a fender cover.
• Disconnect the battery negative terminal using a 10mm socket.
• Plan to replace mounts one side at a time so the engine stays aligned.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise the front and remove the lower cover

• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front at the center jacking point.
• Set the vehicle securely on jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Remove the engine under cover/splash shield using a 10mm socket and a trim clip tool for push-clips.

Step 2: Remove the air intake assembly for access

• Loosen intake clamps with a flathead screwdriver.
• Remove air box fasteners using a 10mm socket, then lift out the intake duct/air box.
• Unclip any harness retainers carefully using a trim clip tool.

Step 3: Support the engine safely

• Place a wood block (2x6 in) on the floor jack pad.
• Position it under the engine oil pan area and raise the jack until the wood just contacts and lightly supports the engine.
• Lift only enough to remove mount load.

Step 4: Replace the right engine mount (one side)

• From above and below, locate the right mount and its fasteners using a flashlight.
• Remove the mount through-bolt/nut using a 17mm socket and breaker bar if tight.
• Remove the mount-to-engine bracket nuts/bolts using a 14mm socket and extension set (3 in, 6 in, 12 in).
• Remove the mount-to-subframe nuts/bolts using a 14mm or 17mm socket (varies by hardware).
• Slowly raise or lower the engine a small amount using the floor jack to create clearance, then work the mount out.
• Install the new mount in the same orientation. Start all fasteners by hand using a metric wrench set 10mm-19mm to prevent cross-threading.
• Apply medium-strength threadlocker (blue) if the hardware kit specifies it.
• Snug fasteners, then torque:
  • Mount through-bolt/nut: Torque to 85 Nm (63 ft-lbs)
  • Mount-to-subframe fasteners: Torque to 90 Nm (66 ft-lbs)
  • Mount-to-engine bracket fasteners: Torque to 65 Nm (48 ft-lbs)

Step 5: Replace the left engine mount (other side)

• Locate the left mount and clear any small brackets/liners blocking access using a 10mm socket and trim clip tool.
• Remove the mount through-bolt/nut using a 17mm socket and breaker bar 1/2 in.
• Remove mount-to-engine bracket and mount-to-subframe fasteners using a 14mm socket, extension set, and wobble extension 3/8 in for tight angles.
• Adjust engine height slightly with the floor jack (wood block still installed) until the mount slides out.
• Install the new mount, start fasteners by hand, then torque:
  • Mount through-bolt/nut: Torque to 85 Nm (63 ft-lbs)
  • Mount-to-subframe fasteners: Torque to 90 Nm (66 ft-lbs)
  • Mount-to-engine bracket fasteners: Torque to 65 Nm (48 ft-lbs)

Step 6: Reinstall intake and lower cover

• Reinstall the air box and intake duct using a 10mm socket and tighten clamps with a flathead screwdriver.
• Reinstall the splash shield using a 10mm socket and replace any damaged clips using a trim clip tool.
• Lower the vehicle off the jack stands using the floor jack.

Step 7: Reconnect battery

• Reconnect the battery negative terminal using a 10mm socket.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and let it idle. Listen for new clunks and watch for excessive engine movement.
• With your foot on the brake, shift from Park to Reverse to Drive and feel for abnormal movement (keep it gentle).
• Take a short test drive and recheck that all intake clamps are tight and no warning lights appear.
• If vibration/clunk remains, the transmission mount or exhaust contact points may also be worn.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $700-$1,400 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $180-$500 (parts only)

You Save: $520-$900 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.