🔧 Veloster - Engine Mount Replacement

Replacing the engine mounts means supporting the engine, then swapping the worn mount(s) one at a time so the engine stays aligned. Bad mounts can cause shaking at idle, clunks on shifts, and extra drivetrain movement.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 2-5 hours

Assumption: replacing common mounts (right/left/rear) on a stock Veloster.

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support the engine before loosening any mount bolts.
• ⚠️ Never get under the car supported only by a jack—use jack stands.
• ⚠️ Keep hands clear when raising/lowering the engine; it can shift suddenly.
• ⚠️ Let the exhaust/turbo area cool completely before working nearby.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is recommended when working near the starter/grounds: use a 10mm socket to remove the negative terminal.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Work light
• Metric socket set 8mm-19mm
• Metric wrench set 10mm-19mm
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 1/2" drive ratchet
• 3" extension
• 6" extension
• Universal joint adapter
• Torque wrench (10-200 Nm range)
• Flat trim tool
• Phillips screwdriver
• Pry bar (12"-18")
• Wood block (2x4)
• Engine support bar (specialty)

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Right (passenger-side) engine mount - Qty: 1
• Left (driver-side) transmission mount - Qty: 1
• Rear lower torque mount (roll stopper) - Qty: 1
• Front lower torque mount (if equipped/needed) - Qty: 1
• Engine mount hardware kit (recommended) - Qty: 1
• Medium-strength threadlocker (blue) - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
• Disconnect the battery negative cable using a 10mm socket.
• Lift the front and support it securely on jack stands at the proper lift points.
• Plan to replace one mount at a time so the engine stays located.
• An engine support bar spans the fenders and holds the engine from above (safer than lifting only from below).

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove lower covers for access

• Use a flat trim tool and Phillips screwdriver to remove the undertray/splash shield fasteners.
• Set all clips/screws aside so none are lost.

Step 2: Support the engine safely

• Install the engine support bar (specialty) and snug the support hook/chain to the engine lift point.
• If you do not have a support bar, position a floor jack under the oil pan with a wood block (2x4) between the jack and pan. Raise only until it just supports the engine. Do not crush the oil pan.

Step 3: Replace the rear lower torque mount (roll stopper)

• Locate the rear mount under the car (it limits engine rocking).
• Use a 14mm/17mm socket (sizes vary by hardware) and a ratchet to remove the mount through-bolts and bracket bolts.
• Remove the mount. If it’s stuck, use a pry bar gently—do not bend the bracket.
• Install the new mount in the same orientation.
• Start all bolts by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
• Torque to Hyundai factory specification for the exact bolt locations using a torque wrench.

Step 4: Replace the left (driver-side) transmission mount

• From above, remove any intake ducting or small brackets blocking access using a 10mm socket and ratchet.
• Keep the engine supported, then use a 14mm/17mm socket with extensions to remove the mount-to-body bolts and the mount-to-transmission bracket bolts.
• Lift or lower the engine slightly with the engine support bar or floor jack to relieve bolt tension (you’ll feel the bolt loosen easier).
• Swap in the new mount, hand-start all bolts, then tighten evenly.
• Torque to Hyundai factory specification for the exact bolt locations using a torque wrench.

Step 5: Replace the right (passenger-side) engine mount

• This mount is typically near the timing cover side and may be close to the coolant reservoir/lines—work carefully.
• Remove any obstructing brackets/covers using a 10mm socket and ratchet.
• With the engine supported, use a 14mm/17mm/19mm socket (varies by hardware) and a ratchet to remove the mount-to-body fasteners and the mount center bolt/nut.
• Raise/lower the engine slightly to align the new mount holes. Small movements make a big difference.
• Install the new mount, hand-start all bolts, then snug them.
• Torque to Hyundai factory specification for the exact bolt locations using a torque wrench.

Step 6: Final tighten with engine at “rest” position

• Lower the engine support slowly so the engine’s weight sits naturally on the mounts.
• Re-check all mount fasteners with the torque wrench.
• If using new hardware, apply medium-strength threadlocker (blue) only where appropriate (do not use on self-locking nuts).

Step 7: Reinstall undertray and any removed components

• Reinstall intake ducts/brackets using a 10mm socket and ratchet.
• Reinstall the splash shield using a flat trim tool and Phillips screwdriver.
• Reconnect the battery negative cable using a 10mm socket.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and let it idle. Listen for clunks and watch for excessive engine movement.
• With the clutch pressed, gently blip the throttle in neutral—movement should be controlled, not violent.
• Take a short test drive and re-check for new vibrations or banging over bumps.
• After the test drive, re-check mount fasteners for tightness (only when cool) using a torque wrench.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$1,200 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $120-$450 (parts only)

You Save: $330-$750 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.