🔧 Civic - Engine Mount Replacement

Replacing engine mounts restores proper support for the engine/transmission and reduces vibration, clunks, and excessive movement on takeoff. On your Civic, this typically includes the upper right (passenger-side) engine mount, upper left (driver-side) transmission mount, and the lower torque mount(s).

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours

Assumption: Replacing all main mounts on the 2.0L.

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on a flat surface and support the car with jack stands; never rely on a jack.
• ⚠️ You must support the engine before removing any mount; otherwise parts can shift suddenly.
• ⚠️ Keep hands clear between mounts/brackets while lifting the engine.
• ⚠️ Let the exhaust cool fully before working near the lower mounts.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is recommended if you’ll be near the starter/large wiring: remove negative battery terminal (10mm) first.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Torque wrench (10-200 Nm range)
• Socket set 8mm-19mm
• Deep socket set 14mm-19mm
• Wrench set 10mm-19mm
• Breaker bar 1/2-inch drive
• Extensions (3-inch, 6-inch, 12-inch)
• Universal swivel adapter 1/2-inch drive
• Trim clip remover
• Flathead screwdriver
• Pry bar (12-18 inch)
• Wood block (2x6 inch, 12 inch long)
• Penetrating oil
• Paint marker

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Right (passenger-side) upper engine mount - Qty: 1
• Left (driver-side) upper transmission mount - Qty: 1
• Rear lower torque mount (engine) - Qty: 1
• Front lower torque mount (if equipped) - Qty: 1
• Mount-to-body bolts (recommended replace if stretched/corroded) - Qty: 1 set

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear tires.
• Open the hood and remove any plastic engine covers using a trim clip remover if needed.
• If disconnecting the battery, use a 10mm socket to remove the negative terminal and tuck it aside.
• Get your floor jack and place a wood block on the jack pad; the wood spreads the load so you don’t dent the oil pan.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Support the engine safely

• Raise the front of the car with a floor jack and set it on jack stands.
• Position the floor jack under the engine oil pan area with the wood block between the jack and the pan.
• Pump the jack up until it just contacts and lightly supports the engine (do not lift the car off the stands).
• Tip: Only “take the weight,” don’t jack hard.

Step 2: Remove the right (passenger-side) upper engine mount

• Remove any intake ducting/resonator blocking access using a flathead screwdriver and 10mm socket.
• Spray mount fasteners with penetrating oil and wait a few minutes.
• Use a 14mm socket and breaker bar to loosen the mount-to-body bolts.
• Use a 17mm socket (as equipped) to loosen the mount-to-bracket nuts/bolts.
• Slowly raise or lower the engine a small amount with the floor jack until the bolts come out without binding.
• Remove the mount and set it next to the new one to confirm the shape/orientation.
• Install the new mount by hand-starting all bolts first.
• Tighten with a torque wrench: Torque to 54 Nm (40 ft-lbs) for mount-to-bracket fasteners, and Torque to 47 Nm (35 ft-lbs) for mount-to-body bolts.

Step 3: Remove the left (driver-side) upper transmission mount

• Remove the air intake box/ducting if it blocks access using a 10mm socket and flathead screwdriver.
• Support the transmission/engine the same way (keep the floor jack with wood block in place).
• Use a 14mm socket and extensions to remove the mount-to-body bolts.
• Use a 17mm socket to remove the mount-to-transmission bracket bolts/nuts.
• If the mount is “stuck,” use a pry bar gently to free it (do not pry on aluminum sealing surfaces).
• Install the new mount and hand-start all fasteners.
• Tighten with a torque wrench: Torque to 54 Nm (40 ft-lbs) for mount-to-bracket fasteners, and Torque to 47 Nm (35 ft-lbs) for mount-to-body bolts.

Step 4: Remove the rear lower torque mount (under the car)

• Locate the rear lower torque mount near the subframe (it looks like a small “dogbone” link).
• If a splash shield is in the way, remove it using a trim clip remover and 10mm socket.
• Mark the mount orientation with a paint marker.
• Use a 17mm socket and breaker bar to remove the through-bolt and bracket bolts.
• Adjust engine height slightly with the floor jack so the bolt slides out smoothly.
• Install the new mount, hand-start all bolts, then tighten with a torque wrench: Torque to 64 Nm (47 ft-lbs) for the through-bolt and Torque to 54 Nm (40 ft-lbs) for bracket bolts.

Step 5: Replace the front lower torque mount (if equipped)

• Inspect the front side of the engine/subframe area for a second “dogbone” style mount.
• Remove any shields using a trim clip remover and 10mm socket.
• Use a 17mm socket to remove the mount bolts.
• Install the new mount and tighten with a torque wrench: Torque to 64 Nm (47 ft-lbs) for the through-bolt and Torque to 54 Nm (40 ft-lbs) for bracket bolts.

Step 6: Recheck alignment and final-tighten with the engine settled

• Lower the engine gently onto the new mounts by slowly releasing the floor jack.
• With the engine at rest, re-check that all mount bolts are torqued using a torque wrench.
• Reinstall air box/ducting and covers using a 10mm socket and flathead screwdriver.
• If you disconnected the battery, reconnect the negative terminal using a 10mm socket.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and let it idle; watch the engine for excessive rocking (a small movement is normal).
• With your foot on the brake, shift from Park to Reverse to Drive and listen for clunks.
• Road test at low speed; check for vibrations on acceleration and during stops.
• Recheck for loose fasteners and any intake/vacuum hoses left disconnected.
• Tip: Re-torque mount bolts after 1-2 days.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $700-$1,400 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $180-$550 (parts only)

You Save: $520-$850 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-6 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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