🔧 Terrain - Engine Mount Replacement

Engine mounts hold the engine/transmission in place and absorb vibration. When they wear out, you’ll feel clunks on acceleration/braking, extra vibration at idle, or see the engine “rock” when shifting.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 2.5-5 hours

Assumption: Stock 2.4L FWD; mount locations/fasteners may vary slightly.

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support the engine before removing any mount; the engine can drop or shift suddenly.
• ⚠️ Use jack stands on the pinch welds/subframe; never rely on a floor jack alone.
• ⚠️ Keep hands clear between the mount and brackets while raising/lowering the engine.
• ⚠️ Let the exhaust and radiator area cool before working nearby.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is recommended if working near the starter/positive cable paths; use a 10mm wrench for the negative terminal.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Wheel chocks
• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wood block (2x6 or 2x8)
• Torque wrench (10–150 ft-lb range)
• Breaker bar (1/2")
• Ratchet (3/8")
• Ratchet (1/2")
• Socket set: 10mm, 13mm, 15mm, 18mm, 21mm
• Wrench set: 10mm, 13mm, 15mm, 18mm
• Extensions (3", 6")
• Universal joint adapter (3/8")
• Trim clip tool
• Flathead screwdriver
• Pry bar
• Engine support bar (specialty)

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Right (passenger-side) upper engine mount - Qty: 1
• Left (driver-side) transmission mount - Qty: 1
• Lower torque strut mount (front) - Qty: 1
• Lower torque strut mount (rear) - Qty: 1
• Engine mount fastener kit (recommended) - Qty: 1
• Medium-strength threadlocker (blue) - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear tires.
• Open the hood and remove loose items around the engine bay for working room.
• If disconnecting the battery: use a 10mm wrench to remove the negative terminal and isolate it.
• Plan how you’ll support the engine: best method is an engine support bar (a beam that spans the fenders and holds the engine from above).
• If using a floor jack to support the engine, always use a wood block between the jack and the oil pan to spread the load.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and safely support the Terrain

• Use a floor jack to lift the front of the vehicle at the front jacking point.
• Set it down onto jack stands at the proper support points.
• Remove any lower splash shield if equipped using a trim clip tool and 10mm socket.

Step 2: Support the engine

• Preferred: install the engine support bar (specialty) across the fender rails, then tension the hook/chain to the engine lifting eye.
• Alternate: position a floor jack with a wood block under the engine oil pan and apply light upward pressure (do not lift the car).
• Support first—remove mounts second.

Step 3: Replace the right (passenger-side) upper engine mount

• From the engine bay, remove any components blocking access (commonly the air intake duct/cover) using a flathead screwdriver for clamps and a 10mm socket for bolts.
• Use a 15mm socket and breaker bar to loosen (but not fully remove) the mount-to-body fasteners.
• Use a 15mm socket and 18mm socket (as equipped) to remove the mount-to-engine bracket fasteners.
• Raise or lower the engine slightly using the engine support bar or floor jack until the mount comes out without forcing it.
• Install the new mount in the same orientation. Start all bolts by hand.
• Tighten fasteners evenly with a ratchet, then final-tighten with a torque wrench to the factory specification for each fastener size/location.
• If using new bolts: apply a small amount of medium-strength threadlocker (blue) only if the replacement fastener instructions call for it.

Step 4: Replace the left (driver-side) transmission mount

• Access is typically from above and/or through the left wheel well area.
• If needed, remove the left front wheel using a 21mm socket. Torque to 140 Nm (103 ft-lb) when reinstalling.
• Remove any splash shield/liner section with a trim clip tool and 10mm socket.
• Use a 15mm socket and 18mm socket to remove transmission mount fasteners.
• Adjust engine height slightly using the engine support bar or floor jack so the mount slides out without prying hard.
• Install the new transmission mount, hand-start bolts, snug with a ratchet, then final-tighten with a torque wrench to the factory specification.

Step 5: Replace the lower front torque strut mount (dogbone)

• From underneath, locate the lower front torque strut (it limits engine rocking).
• Use an 18mm socket and breaker bar to remove the through-bolt(s).
• Remove the mount/bracket bolts with an 15mm socket (as equipped).
• Install the new torque strut mount, start bolts by hand, then tighten with a torque wrench to the factory specification.
• Don’t preload the mount—keep engine neutral.

Step 6: Replace the lower rear torque strut mount

• Locate the rear lower torque mount near the subframe/rear of the powertrain.
• Use an 18mm socket and breaker bar to remove the main bolt(s).
• Use a 15mm socket for any bracket fasteners (as equipped).
• Install the new mount, hand-start all fasteners, then final-tighten using a torque wrench to the factory specification.

Step 7: Reassemble and remove engine support

• Reinstall any liners/shields using a trim clip tool and 10mm socket.
• Reinstall the wheel (if removed) using a 21mm socket. Torque to 140 Nm (103 ft-lb).
• Slowly remove load from the engine support bar or floor jack and confirm the engine sits naturally.
• Reinstall the intake/engine cover using a 10mm socket and flathead screwdriver.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and let it idle. Watch for excessive movement and listen for clunks.
• With your foot on the brake, shift through P-R-N-D (briefly) and feel for abnormal vibration.
• Road test at low speed: gentle accelerate/decelerate, then a few normal starts. Recheck for noises.
• Recheck all accessible mount fasteners after the test drive for tightness (use a torque wrench to confirm to factory specification).
• If the battery was disconnected, reconnect with a 10mm wrench and reset the clock as needed.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $650-$1,300 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $180-$550 (parts only)

You Save: $470-$750 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2.5-5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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