🔧 Acadia - Engine Mount Replacement

Engine mounts hold the engine/transmission in place and absorb vibration. When they wear out, you’ll feel clunks on acceleration/braking, excessive vibration at idle, or see the engine “rock” when shifting.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours

Assumption: Replacing the common 3-mount set (right engine mount, left trans mount, lower torque/rear mount) on your Acadia.

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support the engine before removing any mount; do not let it hang by hoses or wiring.
• ⚠️ Use jack stands; never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack.
• ⚠️ Keep hands clear when raising/lowering the engine; pinch hazard.
• ⚠️ Let the exhaust cool fully before working near the lower mounts.
• ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable if you’ll work near the starter/positive cable routing.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Wheel chocks
• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (pair, rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wood block (2x6 or 2x8, 12-18 in long)
• Metric socket set (10mm, 13mm, 15mm, 18mm)
• Metric wrench set (15mm, 18mm)
• 3/8" ratchet
• 1/2" breaker bar
• Socket extensions (3" and 6")
• Universal joint adapter
• Torque wrench (20-200 ft-lbs range)
• Trim clip removal tool
• Flathead screwdriver
• Pry bar
• Flashlight

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Right (passenger-side) engine mount - Qty: 1
• Left (driver-side) transmission mount - Qty: 1
• Lower torque mount / rear roll restrictor mount - Qty: 1
• Engine mount fastener kit (recommended) - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear tires.
• Open the hood and remove any loose items from the engine bay.
• If you’ll be near main power wiring, use a 10mm socket to disconnect the negative battery cable and isolate it.
• Plan to replace one mount at a time so the drivetrain stays aligned.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise and support the Acadia

• Use wheel chocks at the rear tires.
• Use a floor jack to lift the front at the proper front jacking point.
• Set the front down on jack stands at the pinch welds/subframe points.

Step 2: Support the engine safely

• Place a wood block on the floor jack saddle. (The wood spreads the load so you don’t crack the oil pan.)
• Position the jack/wood under the engine’s lower area and raise it just until it takes the engine weight.
• Lift only enough to “take load.”

Step 3: Remove components for access (right upper engine mount area)

• Use a flathead screwdriver to loosen the air intake hose clamp(s) as needed.
• Use a trim clip removal tool to pop any push-clips from the upper cover/ducting.
• Use a 10mm socket and 13mm socket to remove any brackets or shields blocking the mount.

Step 4: Replace the right (passenger-side) engine mount

• With the engine supported, use a 15mm socket and 18mm socket with a ratchet and extensions to remove the mount fasteners (mount-to-engine and mount-to-body).
• If a bolt is tight, use a 1/2" breaker bar to crack it loose, then switch back to the ratchet.
• Raise or lower the engine slightly using the floor jack to relieve bind and slide the mount out.
• Install the new mount by hand-starting all bolts first to avoid cross-threading.
• Tighten fasteners with a torque wrench to the factory specification for your mount locations. Torque to XX Nm (YY ft-lbs)
• Hand-start every bolt before tightening.

Step 5: Replace the left (driver-side) transmission mount

• Keep the drivetrain supported with the floor jack and wood block.
• From above and/or through the wheel well area (as access allows), use a 15mm socket, 18mm socket, extensions, and a universal joint adapter to remove mount fasteners.
• Use a pry bar gently to help the mount separate if it’s stuck. (A pry bar is a strong lever tool used to nudge parts apart.)
• Install the new mount, hand-start all bolts, then tighten with a torque wrench to factory specification. Torque to XX Nm (YY ft-lbs)

Step 6: Replace the lower torque / rear roll restrictor mount

• From underneath, locate the lower mount that limits engine “rock” (often called a torque mount or roll restrictor).
• Use a 15mm socket and/or 18mm socket with a ratchet to remove the mount bolts.
• Adjust engine height slightly with the floor jack to line up bolt holes during removal/installation.
• Install the new mount and tighten fasteners using a torque wrench to factory specification. Torque to XX Nm (YY ft-lbs)

Step 7: Reinstall intake/ducting and any brackets

• Reinstall removed brackets using a 10mm socket and 13mm socket.
• Reinstall the air intake ducting and tighten clamps with a flathead screwdriver.
• Double-check that no hoses or wiring harnesses are stretched or pinched.

Step 8: Lower the vehicle

• Use the floor jack to raise slightly, remove the jack stands, then lower fully.
• Remove the wheel chocks.

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✅ After Repair

• If disconnected, reconnect the battery negative cable using a 10mm socket.
• Start the engine and let it idle; listen for clunks and watch for excessive engine movement.
• With your foot on the brake, shift through P-R-N-D and feel for abnormal thumps.
• Test drive at low speed first; re-check for noises on acceleration and braking.
• After the drive, re-check mount fasteners visually for any sign of shifting.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $600-$1,400 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $180-$550 (parts only)

You Save: $420-$850 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-6 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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