🔧 Fusion - Engine Mount Replacement

On your Fusion, the engine is held in place by multiple mounts (typically an upper engine mount, a transmission-side mount, and a lower torque strut). Replacing worn mounts reduces vibration, clunks on acceleration/braking, and excessive engine movement.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours

Assumption: stock 2.0L layout; mount locations vary slightly by build.

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support the engine before unbolting any mount; an unsupported engine can drop and damage hoses, wiring, or the exhaust.
• ⚠️ Never rely on a floor jack alone—use jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) under the pinch welds or approved lift points.
• ⚠️ Use a wood block between the jack and oil pan; direct jack contact can crack the pan.
• ⚠️ Keep hands clear while raising/lowering the engine; small movements can pinch fingers.
• ⚠️ If you remove any coolant/AC line brackets, do not bend lines; reposition gently.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Wood block (2x6 or similar)
• Metric socket set (8mm-21mm)
• Metric wrench set (8mm-21mm)
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• Torque wrench (10-200 Nm range)
• Extensions (3", 6", 12")
• Universal joint adapter (swivel)
• Flat trim tool
• Phillips screwdriver
• Penetrating oil
• Paint marker
• Flashlight

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Upper engine mount (passenger-side mount) - Qty: 1
• Transmission mount (driver-side mount) - Qty: 1
• Lower torque strut mount (rear/lower mount) - Qty: 1
• Mount-to-body bolts (single-use if specified by Ford) - Qty: 1 set
• Mount-to-bracket bolts (single-use if specified by Ford) - Qty: 1 set

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🅿️ Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Open the hood and remove loose items around the engine bay.
• Plan to replace one mount at a time so the engine stays located.
• Know your tools: a torque wrench is used to tighten bolts to a precise tightness so parts don’t loosen or strip.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise and support the Fusion

• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front of the car at the front center jacking point.
• Set the car down onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Verify stability by gently pushing on the car before going underneath.

Step 2: Support the engine safely

• Slide the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) under the engine.
• Place a wood block (2x6 or similar) on the jack pad.
• Jack up until the wood just contacts the oil pan area and lightly supports the engine weight.
• Lift only enough to take weight off mounts.

Step 3: Remove splash shield (if equipped)

• Use a flat trim tool and Phillips screwdriver to remove the lower shield fasteners.
• Use a metric socket set (8mm-21mm) with a 3/8" drive ratchet to remove any small bolts.
• Set the shield and fasteners aside in a tray.

Step 4: Replace the lower torque strut mount (dogbone)

• Locate the lower mount near the subframe (controls engine rocking on acceleration).
• Spray fasteners with penetrating oil and wait 2-3 minutes.
• Use a metric socket set (8mm-21mm), breaker bar, and extensions (3", 6", 12") to remove the front and rear bolts.
• Remove the torque strut and compare it to the new part for matching shape and bolt hole orientation.
• Install the new torque strut by hand-starting bolts first to avoid cross-threading.
• Torque to Ford specification for your exact mount fasteners using a torque wrench (10-200 Nm range).

Step 5: Replace the upper engine mount (passenger-side)

• From the top of the engine bay, locate the upper mount near the passenger-side frame rail.
• If any covers or the coolant reservoir block access, use a metric socket set (8mm-21mm) and Phillips screwdriver to unbolt/move them aside without disconnecting hoses.
• Use a paint marker to mark mount orientation and any bracket positions.
• With the engine still supported by the jack, use a metric socket set (8mm-21mm) and ratchet to remove mount-to-body bolts, then mount-to-engine bracket bolts.
• Use the floor jack to raise/lower the engine slightly as needed to relieve bolt tension and line up holes.
• Install the new mount: hand-start all bolts, then snug them evenly.
• Torque to Ford specification for your exact mount/bracket fasteners using a torque wrench (10-200 Nm range).

Step 6: Replace the transmission mount (driver-side)

• Locate the transmission-side mount near the driver-side frame rail (access may be from above and/or through the wheel well).
• If needed, turn the steering for access and remove any small shields using a flat trim tool and metric socket set (8mm-21mm).
• Keep the engine supported with the floor jack and wood block.
• Use a metric socket set (8mm-21mm), extensions (3", 6", 12"), and universal joint adapter (swivel) to remove mount fasteners.
• Remove the mount and install the new one, hand-starting bolts first.
• Torque to Ford specification for your exact mount/bracket fasteners using a torque wrench (10-200 Nm range).

Step 7: Reinstall shields and lower the engine

• Reinstall the splash shield using the flat trim tool, Phillips screwdriver, and metric socket set (8mm-21mm).
• Slowly lower the engine support jack using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) until the engine rests naturally on the new mounts.
• Do a final visual check that no hoses/wiring are stretched and all brackets are re-secured.

Step 8: Lower the car

• Use the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift slightly, remove jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum), then lower the car to the ground.
• Remove the wheel chocks.

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✅ After Repair

• 🔍 Start the engine and let it idle; verify vibration is reduced and the engine doesn’t shift excessively when revved lightly in Park.
• With the hood open, have a helper shift from Park to Reverse to Drive while holding the brake; watch for abnormal engine movement.
• Road test and listen for clunks on takeoff and when letting off the throttle.
• Recheck all accessible mount fasteners after the test drive using the torque wrench (10-200 Nm range) and torque to Ford specification.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $600-$1,400 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $150-$450 (parts only)

You Save: $450-$950 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-6 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.