🔧 Engine Mounts - Replacement

The engine mounts support the engine and absorb vibration. On your F-150, replacement usually means removing the side mount bolts, supporting the engine from above or below, and swapping the worn mounts one side at a time.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 4-6 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• Support the engine before removing any mount bolts. A jack without support can slip.
• Do not work under a vehicle supported only by a jack. Use jack stands.
• Keep hands clear when raising or lowering the engine.
• Disconnect the negative battery cable before starting. This reduces the chance of accidental starter engagement.
• If equipped with turbo piping, wiring, or brackets near the mounts, move them carefully and do not force anything.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Engine support bar (specialty)
• Socket set, metric
• Ratchet
• Breaker bar
• Torque wrench
• Extensions
• Universal joint socket adapter
• Wrenches, metric
• Trim tool
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Wheel chocks

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Left engine mount - Qty: 1
• Right engine mount - Qty: 1
• Engine mount bolts - Qty: 1 set

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground.
• Set the parking brake.
• Chock the rear wheels.
• Open the hood and remove anything blocking access to the upper engine area.
• Disconnect the negative battery cable before starting.
• Lift the front of the truck only if more access is needed, then support it on jack stands.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Prepare the truck

• Set the parking brake and chock the rear wheels.
• Disconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm wrench.
• If needed, raise the front and support it with jack stands.

Step 2: Support the engine

• Place an engine support bar (specialty) across the fenders if you have one.
• If using a floor jack, place a block of wood on the floor jack pad and lift gently under the engine’s safe support point.
• Raise only enough to take weight off the mounts. Do not lift the truck.

Step 3: Remove access components

• Remove any splash shields, air intake pieces, or brackets that block mount access using the correct metric socket and ratchet.
• Keep all hardware organized by side.

Step 4: Remove the first engine mount

• Use the correct metric socket, breaker bar, and extensions to loosen the mount-to-frame bolts.
• Use the correct metric socket and universal joint socket adapter if the bolts are hidden or angled.
• Remove the mount-to-engine bolts.
• Lift or lower the engine slightly with the floor jack or engine support bar until the mount slides out.

Step 5: Install the new engine mount

• Position the new mount in the same orientation as the old one.
• Start all bolts by hand before tightening.
• Tighten the mount bolts evenly with a ratchet and then a torque wrench.
• Torque to factory specification for the mount and bracket bolts. Mount fastener torque varies by location and bolt size, so use the specific Ford spec for each fastener.

Step 6: Replace the second engine mount

• Repeat the same process on the other side.
• Keep the engine supported the entire time.
• Do not fully remove both mounts at once unless the engine is securely supported from above.

Step 7: Reinstall removed parts

• Reinstall any brackets, intake parts, or splash shields using the metric socket and ratchet.
• Reconnect the negative battery cable with a 10mm wrench.
• Lower the vehicle if it was raised.

Step 8: Final check

• Start the engine and let it idle.
• Check for excessive vibration, clunks, or movement.
• Shift between Park, Reverse, and Drive with your foot on the brake to confirm the engine stays stable.

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✅ After Repair

• Test drive slowly at first.
• Listen for knocking or drivetrain movement when accelerating and braking.
• Recheck mount bolts after the first drive if any looseness is suspected.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$1,800 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $180-$450 (parts only)

You Save: $720-$1,350 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 4-6 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.