🔧 Explorer - Engine Mount Replacement

Worn engine mounts let the engine move too much, which can cause clunks on acceleration/braking, extra vibration, and even exhaust or drivetrain stress. On your Explorer, you’ll typically replace the left and right engine mounts (and often the rear “torque” mount) by supporting the engine, unbolting the mount, and swapping it in.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours

Assumption: Your Explorer uses left/right hydraulic engine mounts plus a rear torque mount.

---

⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support the engine before unbolting any mount; an unsupported engine can drop and damage parts.
• ⚠️ Use jack stands; never work under a vehicle supported only by a floor jack.
• ⚠️ Let the engine cool fully; hot exhaust and coolant parts can burn you.
• ⚠️ Do not jack directly on the oil pan; always use a wood block to spread the load.
• ⚠️ Keep hands clear when raising/lowering the engine; pinch hazard.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is recommended before working near wiring/grounds.

---

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Wheel chocks
• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wood block (2x6 or 2x8)
• Metric socket set 8mm-21mm
• Metric wrench set 8mm-21mm
• 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
• 1/2-inch drive torque wrench (20-200 Nm range)
• 3/8-inch drive ratchet
• 3/8-inch drive torque wrench (5-60 Nm range)
• Extensions (3-inch, 6-inch, 12-inch)
• Universal joint socket adapter
• Trim clip removal tool
• Flathead screwdriver
• Pry bar (small)
• Penetrating oil
• Paint marker
• Work light

---

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Right engine mount (passenger side) - Qty: 1
• Left engine mount (driver side) - Qty: 1
• Rear engine torque mount - Qty: 1
• Engine mount fastener kit - Qty: 1

---

📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
• Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Disconnect the battery: use a 10mm socket to remove the negative terminal and isolate it.
• Raise the front and support with jack stands under proper lift points.
• Position a floor jack with a wood block under the engine (front/center area) to “hold” the engine weight without lifting yet.
• Take photos before removing brackets.

---

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove lower splash shield (if equipped)

• Use a trim clip removal tool and 8mm socket to remove fasteners and take off the splash shield.
• Set all clips/bolts aside in a tray.

Step 2: Support the engine safely

• Raise the floor jack with the wood block until it just contacts the engine and takes a little weight.
• Aim for “supported,” not “lifting high.” You only want to prevent the engine from dropping.
• Watch hoses and wiring while lifting.

Step 3: Replace the right engine mount (passenger side)

• From the top, remove any intake ducting/air box pieces blocking access using a flathead screwdriver (hose clamps) and 8mm/10mm socket (bolts).
• Spray mount fasteners with penetrating oil.
• Use a paint marker to mark the mount/bracket orientation.
• Use a 15mm/18mm socket, extensions, and breaker bar to loosen (do not remove yet) the mount-to-body fasteners.
• Use a 15mm/18mm socket to remove the mount-to-engine bracket fasteners.
• Slowly raise or lower the engine a small amount with the floor jack until the mount slides out without forcing it.
• Install the new right mount in the same orientation.
• Hand-start all bolts/nuts to avoid cross-threading.
• Tighten fasteners with a torque wrench: Torque to Ford factory specification for your mount fasteners.

Step 4: Replace the left engine mount (driver side)

• From the top, remove any components blocking access (often the coolant reservoir area) using a 10mm socket and set aside without stressing hoses.
• Spray fasteners with penetrating oil.
• Use a 15mm/18mm socket, extensions, and universal joint socket adapter to remove the mount-to-body and mount-to-bracket fasteners.
• Adjust engine height slightly with the floor jack so the mount comes out smoothly.
• Install the new left mount, hand-start all fasteners, then tighten with a torque wrench: Torque to Ford factory specification for your mount fasteners.
• If holes don’t line up, change engine height slightly.

Step 5: Replace the rear engine torque mount

• From underneath, locate the rear torque mount (it limits fore-aft engine rocking).
• Use a 15mm/18mm socket and breaker bar to remove the mount bolts.
• Remove the mount; you may need a gentle nudge with a small pry bar.
• Install the new rear torque mount and hand-start bolts.
• Tighten with a torque wrench: Torque to Ford factory specification for the torque mount fasteners.

Step 6: Reinstall removed components

• Reinstall intake/air box pieces using a 8mm/10mm socket and tighten clamps with a flathead screwdriver.
• Reinstall any reservoir/brackets using a 10mm socket.
• Reinstall the splash shield using a trim clip removal tool and 8mm socket.

Step 7: Lower the vehicle and reconnect the battery

• Remove tools from under the vehicle.
• Lower off jack stands using the floor jack.
• Reconnect the negative battery terminal using a 10mm socket.

---

✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and let it idle. Watch for excessive movement and listen for clunks.
• With your foot on the brake, shift Park → Reverse → Drive and feel for abnormal thumps.
• Road test gently. Recheck for vibrations on acceleration and braking.
• Recheck mount fasteners for tightness after the first short drive (only when cool).

---

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$1,800 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $200-$650 (parts only)

You Save: $700-$1,150 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-6 hours.

---

🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.