🔧 Expedition - Engine Mount Replacement

Worn engine mounts let the engine move too much, which can cause clunks on shifts, vibration at idle, and even exhaust or hose damage. On your Expedition, you’ll support the engine, remove one mount at a time, and swap in the new mounts while keeping the engine aligned.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours

Assumption: Exact torque specs vary by fastener/mount design—use OEM specs for your fasteners if they differ.

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on a cool engine; turbos/exhaust parts can burn you.
• ⚠️ Support the vehicle with jack stands; never rely on a floor jack.
• ⚠️ The engine must be supported before loosening mount bolts.
• ⚠️ Keep hands clear while raising/lowering the engine.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is recommended to prevent accidental starts.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Wheel chocks
• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Engine support bar (specialty)
• Socket set 8mm-21mm
• Deep socket set 13mm-21mm
• Wrench set 13mm-21mm
• Breaker bar 1/2-inch drive
• Torque wrench 20-200 ft-lbs
• Ratchet 3/8-inch drive
• Ratchet 1/2-inch drive
• Extensions 3-inch, 6-inch, 12-inch
• Universal joint adapter 3/8-inch drive
• Trim clip remover
• Flathead screwdriver
• Torque angle gauge (specialty)
• Penetrating oil
• Paint marker
• Work light

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Right engine mount - Qty: 1
• Left engine mount - Qty: 1
• Engine mount fastener kit - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
• Disconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket.
• Raise the front and support the frame with jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Remove any front splash shield/skid plate using your socket set 8mm-13mm and a trim clip remover.
• Soak mount fasteners with penetrating oil and let it work for 5-10 minutes.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Support the engine safely

• Install the engine support bar (specialty) across the top of the engine bay; this tool holds the engine from above so mounts can be removed safely.
• Use the support bar’s hook/chain on a solid lift point and take up the slack until the engine just starts to “feel supported.”
• Use a work light to confirm nothing is being crushed or pinched (hoses, wiring, intake tubes).

Step 2: Create access to the right (passenger-side) mount

• Remove the air intake ducting as needed using a flathead screwdriver and 8mm socket.
• If equipped with a coolant overflow bottle in the way, unbolt it using a 10mm socket and gently move it aside without disconnecting hoses.
• From underneath, locate the right mount between the engine bracket and the frame perch.

Step 3: Remove the right engine mount fasteners

• Mark the mount position with a paint marker so you can line things up during reassembly.
• Remove the mount-to-frame nuts/bolts using a deep socket set 15mm-18mm, extensions 6-inch/12-inch, and a breaker bar 1/2-inch drive as needed.
• Remove the through-bolt (mount to engine bracket) using a socket set 18mm-21mm and a wrench set 18mm-21mm to hold the nut.
• If the bolt binds, slightly raise/lower the engine with the engine support bar (specialty) until the bolt slides out smoothly.

Step 4: Remove and replace the right engine mount

• Remove the mount from the frame pocket (you may need a universal joint adapter 3/8-inch drive to clear tight angles).
• Install the new right mount in the same orientation.
• Start all fasteners by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
• Tighten fasteners evenly, then final-tighten using a torque wrench 20-200 ft-lbs to the OEM specs for your mount and fastener set.
• If your mount uses torque-to-yield fasteners, use a torque angle gauge (specialty) and follow the OEM torque + angle spec.

Step 5: Create access to the left (driver-side) mount

• From above and below, locate the left mount between the engine bracket and the frame perch.
• Move any wiring retainers/hoses out of the way carefully using a trim clip remover (don’t pull on the wires themselves).

Step 6: Remove and replace the left engine mount

• Mark alignment with a paint marker.
• Remove mount-to-frame fasteners using a deep socket set 15mm-18mm with extensions 6-inch/12-inch.
• Remove the through-bolt using a socket set 18mm-21mm and wrench set 18mm-21mm.
• Adjust engine height slightly with the engine support bar (specialty) to relieve pressure and slide the bolt out.
• Install the new left mount, hand-start all fasteners, then final-torque using a torque wrench 20-200 ft-lbs to OEM specs.

Step 7: Reinstall removed components

• Reinstall intake ducting using an 8mm socket and flathead screwdriver.
• Reinstall any bottles/brackets using a 10mm socket.
• Reinstall splash shield/skid plate using a socket set 8mm-13mm and trim clip remover.

Step 8: Lower the vehicle and reconnect the battery

• Remove the engine support bar (specialty) after verifying all mount fasteners are fully tightened.
• Lower the vehicle using a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Reconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and let it idle; listen for clunks or rattles.
• With your foot on the brake, shift Park → Reverse → Drive and feel for excessive engine movement.
• Test drive and check for vibration at idle and during acceleration.
• Recheck visible fasteners for tightness after the test drive.
• Tip: One mount at a time prevents misalignment.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$2,200 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $250-$650 (parts only)

You Save: $650-$1,550 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-6 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.